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Discussion Starter #1
My shift lever has a lot of side-to-side slop, probably since I got the bike (March 2012). That is, I haven't noticed any change in the two seasons (but I'm not the most sensitive guy -- ask my first wife).

When I was at a Victory demo ride a couple of months ago, I checked a bunch of the bikes, and they all had less play. I asked one of the dealer people there, and he moved it around, and pronounced it OK... but he wasn't their mechanic.

So, my question is whether anyone's done similar comparisons with their shift lever -- if you felt yours had a lot of slop -- and, if so, have you adjusted it?

I have the shop manual, and it's not a lot of help in this area. I'm talking about the pivot area that the arrow points to in the pic, and left-right movement. That knurled round thing (bolt?) on the inside seems tight -- I tried to move it with a crescent wrench wrapped around a rag -- but it also seems well protected from an Allen key (if it really is an inside-hex bolt) by the cramped quarters there.

Oh, yeah, c. 18,000 miles on the bike, maybe half of that highway riding.
 

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My shift lever has a lot of side-to-side slop, probably since I got the bike (March 2012). That is, I haven't noticed any change in the two seasons (but I'm not the most sensitive guy -- ask my first wife).

When I was at a Victory demo ride a couple of months ago, I checked a bunch of the bikes, and they all had less play. I asked one of the dealer people there, and he moved it around, and pronounced it OK... but he wasn't their mechanic.

So, my question is whether anyone's done similar comparisons with their shift lever -- if you felt yours had a lot of slop -- and, if so, have you adjusted it?

I have the shop manual, and it's not a lot of help in this area. I'm talking about the pivot area that the arrow points to in the pic, and left-right movement. That knurled round thing (bolt?) on the inside seems tight -- I tried to move it with a crescent wrench wrapped around a rag -- but it also seems well protected from an Allen key (if it really is an inside-hex bolt) by the cramped quarters there.

Oh, yeah, c. 18,000 miles on the bike, maybe half of that highway riding.
There are plastic bushings in there and the brake. If they wear out replace them with Vic plastic bushings. I made the terrible mistake of buying some brass bushings from Witchdoctor. They DO NOT fit. I F*cked around with them on my brake lever forever and could never get it to feel right no matter how many times I sanded and lubed the damn thing. Finally, I tore it off and replaced with the original plastic bushing the allows the peddle to wobble around and brake feel is perfect once again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There are plastic bushings in there and the brake. If they wear out replace them with Vic plastic bushings. I made the terrible mistake of buying some brass bushings from Witchdoctor. They DO NOT fit. I F*cked around with them on my brake lever forever and could never get it to feel right no matter how many times I sanded and lubed the damn thing. Finally, I tore it off and replaced with the original plastic bushing the allows the peddle to wobble around and brake feel is perfect once again.
SB: thanks much for the heads-up and recommendation. Will do.

Now, for my follow-up question: do you recall how much of the bike you had to take apart to get that bolt off, slip the bushing in, and tighten things up again?

I took some of this area apart -- slid some stuff forward -- when I put my KewlHeel shifter on, but that was a while ago. Thanks.
 

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SB: thanks much for the heads-up and recommendation. Will do.

Now, for my follow-up question: do you recall how much of the bike you had to take apart to get that bolt off, slip the bushing in, and tighten things up again?

I took some of this area apart -- slid some stuff forward -- when I put my KewlHeel shifter on, but that was a while ago. Thanks.
I only did the brake side because I had so much trouble with it I didn't even consider the shifter side, but it basically just required removing the floorboard, a couple nuts on the master cylinder and maybe a nut on the bolt that holds the bushing. It wasn't terribly hard or time consuming, but I'd prefer to find other ways to spend my days...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I only did the brake side because I had so much trouble with it I didn't even consider the shifter side, but it basically just required removing the floorboard, a couple nuts on the master cylinder and maybe a nut on the bolt that holds the bushing. It wasn't terribly hard or time consuming, but I'd prefer to find other ways to spend my days...
Thanks again. I owe you a beverage or sumptin'.
 

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SB: thanks much for the heads-up and recommendation. Will do.

Now, for my follow-up question: do you recall how much of the bike you had to take apart to get that bolt off, slip the bushing in, and tighten things up again?

I took some of this area apart -- slid some stuff forward -- when I put my KewlHeel shifter on, but that was a while ago. Thanks.
Disconnect the shift linkage and remove 2 bolts under the floorboard. If I remember right, it will then slide out of the mounting area. Remember the location it is in. I'm sure you're familiar with the for/aft adjustment on the foot controls. Mine has a lot of slop too but works just fine so I've left it alone.
 

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I have the Witchdoctor bushings...they went in fine. They improved the slop about 75%, but there is still a little in the shifter side. The brake side is pretty tight.
 

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I have the Witchdoctor bushings...they went in fine. They improved the slop about 75%, but there is still a little in the shifter side. The brake side is pretty tight.
Well then either Vic or Witch have a lot of slop in their tolerances from part to part. I had to hone out the ID of the bushing to get it on the bolt then sand off the outside to provide sufficient clearance in its port hole. The first time I put it in it literally drug the brakes. I sanded and sanded over and over, on and off with the damn parts and I never could get the brakes to apply smoothly, though I was able to eventually get enough off that the brakes didn't drag. Still had to kick the pedal up to put it back in place.

And even having honed out the bushing's ID, I still had to beat it off with a screwdriver and penetrating oil to put the original plastic one back on.

I will say that the pedal didn't flop around with the brass bushing, but I prefer the brakes work properly.

Anyway, to add insult to injury, I found what look to be identical bushings at Lowes for about $3. I got mine for about $20 from a member here. And I think he paid more for them than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Disconnect the shift linkage and remove 2 bolts under the floorboard. If I remember right, it will then slide out of the mounting area. Remember the location it is in. I'm sure you're familiar with the for/aft adjustment on the foot controls. Mine has a lot of slop too but works just fine so I've left it alone.
Thanks, Creek!
 

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I used the WD bushings. Had to grind and file a bunch of material off of them. I felt for the price WD might have done the grinding.
 

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Are all four WD brass bushings the same?...or are there two for the shifter and two ( slightly different size) for the brake pedal? The reason I ask is the factory bushing part numbers are different for the brake pedal and the shifter. I have the WD bushings on my want list so I'm glad I read this before I ordered them. I've already made and installed my own stainless steel bushing for the master cylinder clevis pin in the brake pedal, that was sloppy too.

Tech23
 

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Are all four WD brass bushings the same?...or are there two for the shifter and two ( slightly different size) for the brake pedal? The reason I ask is the factory bushing part numbers are different for the brake pedal and the shifter. I have the WD bushings on my want list so I'm glad I read this before I ordered them. I've already made and installed my own stainless steel bushing for the master cylinder clevis pin in the brake pedal, that was sloppy too.

Tech23
Good question. I still have the two bushings I didn't use, but no longer have the packaging. I don't recall there being any differences, but then again maybe I didn't look hard enough.

Anyway, before you overspend for the ahem specialized part, you might want to trot your plastic bushing down to your local hardware store and see if you can't find a similar brass bushing there. You can take your savings and have a nice dinner out.
 

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I used the WD Bushing on the Shifter Side of my XC and it did improve it some but still has some slop but not near as bad as with the OEM plastic bushings .. Didn't mess with the Brake as it is pretty solid as it is, and heard some bad stories of getting the Brass Bushings for the Brake to Fit .. My Kingpin is Rock Solid and needs nothing ..
 

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I think they are the same. As GatorJoe said, the brake has remained pretty tight so I just put those in my tool box. When the gearshifter got sloppy again I put those in the shifter side and they fit just fine. Second set went in at around 34K. 1st set at around 16-18k as I recall.
 

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Good question. I still have the two bushings I didn't use, but no longer have the packaging. I don't recall there being any differences, but then again maybe I didn't look hard enough.

Anyway, before you overspend for the ahem specialized part, you might want to trot your plastic bushing down to your local hardware store and see if you can't find a similar brass bushing there. You can take your savings and have a nice dinner out.
I had my brake pedal and shift lever off in an attempt to remove some of the slop. I was disappointed that the OEM bushings are not full length. I took off one pedal at a time so I didn't have an opportunity to compare them and see if they were different. They appeared the same to me just looking at them. If there is a difference it must be a small difference. I didn't even suspect a difference at the time, I was surprised when I looked up the part numbers to order them and found they had different part numbers. I would think if they were the same bushings they'd have the same part numbers. When I ran across the WD brass bushings I thought OK I'm not just being overly particular about this, apparently it's a common thing if these bushings are available. I think I'll hold off on getting new bushings until this mystery is solved.

Tech23
 

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I used the WD bushings. Had to grind and file a bunch of material off of them. I used a plumbing brush that is used to clean the inside of 1/2 inch copper fittings, the one that fits on the drill. Worked great to enlarge the inside of the bushings. I did leave my shift bushing to tight and was unable to get the bike to shift properly, the shifter must move freely or the internals will bind and the bike will not shift. After some more use of the brush things moved freely and it now works great.
 

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My shift lever has a lot of side-to-side slop, probably since I got the bike (March 2012). That is, I haven't noticed any change in the two seasons (but I'm not the most sensitive guy -- ask my first wife).

When I was at a Victory demo ride a couple of months ago, I checked a bunch of the bikes, and they all had less play. I asked one of the dealer people there, and he moved it around, and pronounced it OK... but he wasn't their mechanic.

So, my question is whether anyone's done similar comparisons with their shift lever -- if you felt yours had a lot of slop -- and, if so, have you adjusted it?

I have the shop manual, and it's not a lot of help in this area. I'm talking about the pivot area that the arrow points to in the pic, and left-right movement. That knurled round thing (bolt?) on the inside seems tight -- I tried to move it with a crescent wrench wrapped around a rag -- but it also seems well protected from an Allen key (if it really is an inside-hex bolt) by the cramped quarters there.

Oh, yeah, c. 18,000 miles on the bike, maybe half of that highway riding.
That is an allen bolt. It's only accessible/removable with the shifter/mount removed. To do that you have to remove the 5mm allen bolt on the underside of the floor board, and disconnect the shift linkage rod. It slides out of the adjustment channel in the floor board rearward. There is no nut it threads directly into the aluminum block that the shifter pivots on. That block/mount slides fore/aft in the floor board mount and permits fore/aft adjustment of the shifter. If you are going to remove the shifter to replace the bushings first measure from the floor board to the center of the shift pedal pad (the shop manual says it should be like 92mm IIRC) also the forward end of shift linkage rod is a left hand thread...this is the rod you adjust to adjust shift pedal height to the 92mm or wherever it's comfortable for you.

Tech23
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That is an allen bolt. It's only accessible/removable with the shifter/mount removed. To do that you have to remove the 6mm allen bolt on the underside of the floor board, and disconnect the shift linkage rod. It slides out of the adjustment channel in the floor board rearward. There is no nut it threads directly into the aluminum block that the shifter pivots on. That block/mount slides fore/aft in the floor board mount and permits fore/aft adjustment of the shifter. If you are going to remove the shifter to replace the bushings first measure from the floor board to the center of the shift pedal pad (the shop manual says it should be like 92mm IIRC) also the forward end of shift linkage rod is a left hand thread...this is the rod you adjust to adjust shift pedal height to the 92mm or wherever it's comfortable for you.Tech23
Thanks much!
 
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