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I just installed a copper oil drain plug washer on the shift shaft of my bike, to eliminate the shaft slop, (missing down shifts.) After reinstalling the primary case cover and buttoning every thing up, some how wound up with only gears 1 and 2, and neutral. In 2nd, the shift lever stays up. Moving it down manually, does not enable a shift into third.

This morning, I discovered on that other site, that there are two different thickness of drain plug washers on the market. If you are unfortunate enough to use the thicker washer, (witch I did), the shift shaft will bind and not work properly. Others have had this problem too. SO BE WARNED!

This quote from the other site.

Just did this yesterday. Very easy job with you guys' help. I did notice that the washer I got was twice as thick as normal. I think Vic is starting to use a thicker washer. This thicker washer, when installed, will only allow 1st and 2nd gear to engage. Don't ask how I know that. Wish I would have measured the thinner one so I could post the differences. One looks like a nickel and the other looks like a dime is the best I can explain it as far as thickness goes. Just thought I'd share to point out the different thickness washers being put out there.
 

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I just installed a copper oil drain plug washer on the shift shaft of my bike, to eliminate the shaft slop, (missing down shifts.) After reinstalling the primary case cover and buttoning every thing up, some how wound up with only gears 1 and 2, and neutral. In 2nd, the shift lever stays up. Moving it down manually, does not enable a shift into third.

This morning, I discovered on that other site, that there are two different thickness of drain plug washers on the market. If you are unfortunate enough to use the thicker washer, (witch I did), the shift shaft will bind and not work properly. Others have had this problem too. SO BE WARNED!

This quote from the other site.

Just did this yesterday. Very easy job with you guys' help. I did notice that the washer I got was twice as thick as normal. I think Vic is starting to use a thicker washer. This thicker washer, when installed, will only allow 1st and 2nd gear to engage. Don't ask how I know that. Wish I would have measured the thinner one so I could post the differences. One looks like a nickel and the other looks like a dime is the best I can explain it as far as thickness goes. Just thought I'd share to point out the different thickness washers being put out there.
Thanks,
This is one of the things on my to do list.
 

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Thanks!
Upgraded mine 6 months ago and a big difference in shift quality.
Should've been done at the factory I reckon.
BEWARE thick oil drain washer. Anyone that ain't done it yet.
More on my latest shifting problem elsewhere.
 

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For us Noobs, can someone explain this mod to me? Not what it does but more how to perform it.

Thanks,
Skin
 

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I have the bushing kit from Witchdoctors. Past Sunday I tried to do the brake side first. I could not watch the witchdoctors video as my computer is dying of old age ( 2008 Vista ). I have a new computer ready to pick up a best buy, Saturday I guess. The job looked straight forward except I could not get that pivot bolt out and could not figure what is holding it in. Should anyone know I am all eyes. Chuck
 

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I have the bushing kit from Witchdoctors. Past Sunday I tried to do the brake side first. I could not watch the witchdoctors video as my computer is dying of old age ( 2008 Vista ). I have a new computer ready to pick up a best buy, Saturday I guess. The job looked straight forward except I could not get that pivot bolt out and could not figure what is holding it in. Should anyone know I am all eyes. Chuck
What is being referred to in this post is not the shift lever slop (which WD bushings fix), but the shifter shaft where it protrudes from the primary case. There is a bit of slop in there and the thinner crush washer is being used to fix that. You have to remove the primary cover and fit the crush washer on the shift shaft, then put the primary cover back on. There is a thread here, somewhere, on how to do this.
 

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You have to remove the primary cover and fit the crush washer on the shift shaft, then put the primary cover back on. There is a thread here, somewhere, on how to do this.
That's the answer I was looking for. I'm not going to pull my primary cover for this alone, but I will put it on the to-do list whenever I go in there. Thanks for the info, B thumb up

Skin

PS- I know you ride a lot but Rever says otherwise :ltr:cheers
 

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That's the answer I was looking for. I'm not going to pull my primary cover for this alone, but I will put it on the to-do list whenever I go in there. Thanks for the info, B thumb up

Skin

PS- I know you ride a lot but Rever says otherwise :ltr:cheers
Well I can guarantee that it's well worth pulling the primary to do this mod,
wishes now that I'd done mine as soon as I found out about it, as it very well could have saved some shift ratchet wear that resulted in that having to be changed too.
The shift ratchet don't need much wear to malfunction.
 

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Well I can guarantee that it's well worth pulling the primary to do this mod,
wishes now that I'd done mine as soon as I found out about it, as it very well could have saved some shift ratchet wear that resulted in that having to be changed too.
The shift ratchet don't need much wear to malfunction.
You make a valid point...perhaps I shall rethink this :not worthy:

Skin
 

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PS- I know you ride a lot but Rever says otherwise :ltr:cheers

Sorry I don't track my daily commutes. I'll try to be better.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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What is being referred to in this post is not the shift lever slop (which WD bushings fix), but the shifter shaft where it protrudes from the primary case. There is a bit of slop in there and the thinner crush washer is being used to fix that. You have to remove the primary cover and fit the crush washer on the shift shaft, then put the primary cover back on. There is a thread here, somewhere, on how to do this.
Well this is indeed good to know. Something I will take care of soon also.
 

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Sorry I don't track my daily commutes. I'll try to be better.
Yeah man, just bustin yer nuts. I have to turn everything into a game and this app is helping me do that. Plus I make sure to show my HD buddies that I can ride circles around them and that motorcycles don't have to be "pleasure trip" vehicles.

Skin
 

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I might even attempt this mod this weekend. Hell, I just installed cams last Sunday so how hard can this be? :)
 

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Before removing the primary cover, take 1 screw out an go get 6 or 10 of them about 2 inches long. Cut the heads off and use them as guides to get the cover back on.
 

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Before removing the primary cover, take 1 screw out an go get 6 or 10 of them about 2 or 3 inches long. Cut the heads off and use them as guides to get the cover back on.
 

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Perfect timing. I have to change my oil anyway.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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I have the bushing kit from Witchdoctors. Past Sunday I tried to do the brake side first. I could not watch the witchdoctors video as my computer is dying of old age ( 2008 Vista ). I have a new computer ready to pick up a best buy, Saturday I guess. The job looked straight forward except I could not get that pivot bolt out and could not figure what is holding it in. Should anyone know I am all eyes. Chuck
When you get your new pc up an running, watch this video, it will help you. I did mine, was pretty simple, just remember you may need to hone the brake pedal bushings a tad because for some reason they can be very tight on some, they were on mine but nothing a little sanding drum and a few seconds didn't fix
 
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