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Discussion Starter #1
Is there a solution to what I call "slop" in the shifter on the Vic's? At first I thought that maybe it was just mine, but when I was at a dealer recently I checked several of the new bikes on the floor and they all have at least some amount of slop in them. I think mine is worse than most others that I've felt and I'm hoping there is a way to at least reduce it.
 

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You can get brass bushings from Witchdoctors that last a lot longer than the crappy OEM plastic bushings.
 

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Yeah, mine's pretty sloppy too. Been keeping me eye on it, doesn't seem to get any worse. The up-and-down slack isn't too bad, its that left to right wiggle that is a lil concerning. I'm due for my first oil change and service so I'll just drop it by and see what they think.
 

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Be careful with those bushings fellas...some have installed them only to find their shifter and brake bound up. Loose is far better than tight.
 

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They come that way from the factory. Way to loose if u ask me.

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I just removed my WD bushings tonight. Shifter side. This was the 2nd time they bound up on me. My shifter does not return properly when this happens. Rode 200 miles to get home and had to use my foot to return the shifter. Pain in the ass. They are not machined properly. Some are but these are not. I put back in the stock ones for now and all is ok. sloppy but good . I have a friend that runs a machine shop. I will have him fix them up.

So yes beware. The idea is good to correct the slop but the machining is off on some bushings. Brake side is better.
 

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I've got over 20K miles on my WD bushings and haven't had a binding problem once. I polished and greased the bolt and bushings with wheel bearing grease before reassembly so maybe that's why.
 

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Have not had a problem with the WD Bushings, in fact they helped some but was not until added a spring washer to the threaded side that really made a big difference in the slop in the shifter ..
 

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So do you reckon the shifter slop causes bad shifts sometimes?
what are you fellas lubing the shifter pivots with? ..Ive used a squirt of chain lube left over from my now gone chain drive bikes, seemed to improve the shift, as did the Penrite MC15-50 semi synthetic oil I used in the engine last oil and filter change.
Still not perfect tho and can slip out of second on the upshift if its at all half-hearted.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I suppose that I'll give the WD bushings a try, but am going to e-mail Jon about the binding problem first. If he does not know there is a problem, he can't fix it.
 

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Jon and I had a walk thru conversation over a year ago when I installed mine. He was made aware of my problem and stated that the bolt Victory uses are some times machined improperly (too thick) at the pivot point (smooth part of bolt). He suggested that I sand the hardened bolt down until it slipped thru nice and easy. I did and greased every thing proper. Still twice in a year it felt sticky (binding) and had to spray lube into the area to free it up. Both times while on a trip. This time it didn't free up so off they came. To the machine shop with them if Jon wont take them back and send me another set.

I think the product is a fix for our sloppy shifters but when you get yours check to see that the pivot bolt slides in nice and easy without any resistance then make sure the bushings slide into the shift arm easily with no resistance. If so then I would say go ahead and grease and install.

When I bolt my shifter back into the block of the floor board with the WD bushings in I cannot tighten the bolt all the way and that is where I think the problem is. When I tighten it down the shifter is too snug.

So dumb question time. As you are looking at the bushing its the outside diameter of the bushing that needs to be free and clean as well as the inside? In other words is the pivot action riding on the bushings outer wall or on the inner wall surrounding the bolt? Why is it that when I tighten it down it snugs (binds) the arm up?
the plastic bushings slip right in and do not do this. I can tighten the pivot ball all the way to stop and all that factory slop is there!::confused:
 

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Maybe I make stuff work too often and do not expect things to fit perfectly until I "adjust" them but... I got WD bushings. I thought the instructions said they may need to be fitted. I repeatedly put them in filed and fit the bushings until they worked tight and smoothly. I think I wound up taking some off the end where they had the washer type side with a grinder then I filed them smooth. To loosen the inside so they would turn freely I used a drill with a steel brush for cleaning the inside of copper pipes prior to sweating them. The brush removed enough so the inside bolts moved freely, you know the routine, remove some try the fit repeat. Added some grease and they worked nice and smooth. I did not expect a generic "fits Victory" part to fit perfectly without some fine tuning. 2 years of shifting and they are still tight and smooth.
 

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Someone just pointed this thread out to me so I though I would clear things up a bit. The bushings fix 99% of the slop. On some bikes the pivot bolt is a different size by just a bit. I have found some bolts have a coating on them of some sort which makes them a few thous bigger and the bushings fit tight. I have usually found this on the brake side and not the shifter side. Also if you tighten up the bolt to tight it will cause binding. These are made to be pretty tight tolerances so you have to make sure they are clean and lubed just like any other pivot spot. If anyone has an issue with the bushings you can send us the lever with the bushings and we will see what is the problem.
 

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Maybe I make stuff work too often and do not expect things to fit perfectly until I "adjust" them but... I got WD bushings. I thought the instructions said they may need to be fitted. I repeatedly put them in filed and fit the bushings until they worked tight and smoothly. I think I wound up taking some off the end where they had the washer type side with a grinder then I filed them smooth. To loosen the inside so they would turn freely I used a drill with a steel brush for cleaning the inside of copper pipes prior to sweating them. The brush removed enough so the inside bolts moved freely, you know the routine, remove some try the fit repeat. Added some grease and they worked nice and smooth. I did not expect a generic "fits Victory" part to fit perfectly without some fine tuning. 2 years of shifting and they are still tight and smooth.
Bill, Is your bolt tight all the way? If so then it sounds like I need to get the dremel back again. I would like the WD bushings back in so I will work on it. Funny they acted up in oct 2013 almost 200 miles from my home and again last week 200 miles from home.
 

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Someone just pointed this thread out to me so I though I would clear things up a bit. The bushings fix 99% of the slop. On some bikes the pivot bolt is a different size by just a bit. I have found some bolts have a coating on them of some sort which makes them a few thous bigger and the bushings fit tight. I have usually found this on the brake side and not the shifter side. Also if you tighten up the bolt to tight it will cause binding. These are made to be pretty tight tolerances so you have to make sure they are clean and lubed just like any other pivot spot. If anyone has an issue with the bushings you can send us the lever with the bushings and we will see what is the problem.
I hope you will be able to answer this question about tightening up the bolt. If I leave it loose it just eventually rotates until it tightens itself up then the binding occurs. With the stock bushings I can tighten the bolt all the way. What do I need to adjust or modify?
 

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Take a little off the outside of the bushings and you'll create more space. A piece of sandpaper on a flat surface should make it easy.
 

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Leaving a bolt loose is asking for trouble, like said take some off the side so you can tighten it.

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I have what could only be described as an incredibly sloppy shifter. It has been that way since I first noticed it around 1000 miles and is still that way today at over 10,000 miles. Shifting is always crisp and nothing is changing with use. Until it causes a problem I am going to stay with my OEM shifter slop.
 

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I suppose that I'll give the WD bushings a try, but am going to e-mail Jon about the binding problem first. If he does not know there is a problem, he can't fix it.
NC,
Bought a set of WD bushes. They work great! I had to lightly sand the Brake side to fit the bolt. I say lightly I mean Lightly as Jon said just a few thousands of an inch. Install was a snap and there is no binding or bounch back at all. Don't leave out the light grease during install.

Cheers
 
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