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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know how to modify the brake lines on a 2013 Cross Country for only one front rotor? I looked at the shop manual for a 2011 but it uses banjo bolts which would be easy to modify. My bike has a different "T" under the bottom triple tree clamp.

I just put this 23" wheel on and do not want to clog up right side of the wheel with a rotor.

 

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Why is it a clog on the right side, but not the left side? Does this go back to that earring thing in the 1990s where if you wore it in a left ear you were straight but a right ear you were gay? :confused:
 

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Brakes, who needs 'em? Take them both off that'll really clean up the front! cheers
 

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I wouldn't recommend it from a brake performance aspect, but I would think you could run a single brake line from the from the brake lever to the brake caliper. You could remove the brake manifold and secure the line in the same place.

Again, I wouldn't recommend you do it. There's a reason there are two brake rotors up front. After all, the XC is not light and needs a pretty robust braking system to stop short of hitting whatever happens to be in front of you :eek:

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I wouldn't recommend it from a brake performance aspect, but I would think you could run a single brake line from the from the brake lever to the brake caliper. You could remove the brake manifold and secure the line in the same place.

Again, I wouldn't recommend you do it. There's a reason there are two brake rotors up front. After all, the XC is not light and needs a pretty robust braking system to stop short of hitting whatever happens to be in front of you :eek:
Even with two of them up there it ain't nothin to write home about. But if the bike is being built to show, how much do it matter?
 

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First off you have to change the master cylinder to one that is for single brake caliper. If you don't yours will not engage the breaks till lever is just about at bar and it will be mushier. It will not stop you very good.

Go to witchdoctor and order brake line and fittings. You'll need to measure the old line for the length you want.

Look on ebay for master cylinder.


Now think of this if your doing 60mph and a car pulls out in front of you with a single break your 800 pound bike with go three times farther before it stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I wanted the right brake rotor off because that is the side that you see the most when you have it parked. The bike definitely isnt a show bike. It'll be rode hard. I guess changing out the entire brake line would work. I guess I was thinking about just "capping" off one part of the splitter where the other brake rotor was.

Figured I would give it a shot and see. A bunch of my HD buddies seem to have just taken one line loose and didnt replace anything esle. If I have to go to a larger rotor for more stopping power I will. Ive been told by some friends and some guys at the local shop that it doesnt make a huge difference in stopping power by just removing one. I'll admit, the front brakes are nothing compared to my Yamaha Raider.
 

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Ok so your saying the brakes are already not as good as the raider so now you still want to make them worse? And like Visionjohnny said either what he said will happen or you will get a real twitchy brake that will want to lock up all the time. To me not worth it just to have it look slightly better. My opinion here, they look better with 2 rotors, it looks balanced and not like its missing something.

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Just cause your harley Buddys do it does that mean your going to put on a harley shirt.

Baggers with single riders are profilers there not riders.
 

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Even with two of them up there it ain't nothin to write home about. But if the bike is being built to show, how much do it matter?
With stock pads. I recently installed EBC pads. HUGE improvement thumb up

And since your post Defender Bob stated that you're assumption that it is going to be a show bike is wrong. Personally I never thought of it that way since IMO bike are made to be ridden :ride:

I wanted the right brake rotor off because that is the side that you see the most when you have it parked. The bike definitely isnt a show bike. It'll be rode hard. I guess changing out the entire brake line would work. I guess I was thinking about just "capping" off one part of the splitter where the other brake rotor was.

Figured I would give it a shot and see. A bunch of my HD buddies seem to have just taken one line loose and didnt replace anything esle. If I have to go to a larger rotor for more stopping power I will. Ive been told by some friends and some guys at the local shop that it doesnt make a huge difference in stopping power by just removing one. I'll admit, the front brakes are nothing compared to my Yamaha Raider.
You seemed to be more concerned with appearance than performance so I just thought that you would want to remove the manifold as well to give it a cleaner look. If you want to leave the manifold on you could probably just remove the right side caliper line and use the shorter left side banjo bolt to connect the master cylinder line to the manifold. That is just a guess and you might want to try disconnecting the right side and see if the left side banjo bolt would work before you pay for a new one but they are only a few bucks anyway. Make sure you also get new washers as well.

Like I said above, if you haven't done so already, I'd recommend changing both front and rear OEM pads with EBCs or similar higher performance brakes. The net result MAY end up being the same.

I am NOT an engineer but I don't see why a master cylinder designed to drive two calipers would work worse driving only one :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
With stock pads. I recently installed EBC pads. HUGE improvement thumb up

And since your post Defender Bob stated that you're assumption that it is going to be a show bike is wrong. Personally I never thought of it that way since IMO bike are made to be ridden :ride:



You seemed to be more concerned with appearance than performance so I just thought that you would want to remove the manifold as well to give it a cleaner look. If you want to leave the manifold on you could probably just remove the right side caliper line and use the shorter left side banjo bolt to connect the master cylinder line to the manifold. That is just a guess and you might want to try disconnecting the right side and see if the left side banjo bolt would work before you pay for a new one but they are only a few bucks anyway. Make sure you also get new washers as well.

Like I said above, if you haven't done so already, I'd recommend changing both front and rear OEM pads with EBCs or similar higher performance brakes. The net result MAY end up being the same.

I am NOT an engineer but I don't see why a master cylinder designed to drive two calipers would work worse driving only one :confused:

I want performance AND looks, just gotta figure out a way to do it. These newer XC's dont have banjo bolts under the triple trees. I may end up having to go with a new brake line all together.

People sure are quick to throw an assumption out there when they have never tried something. The reason I mentioned my HD buddies is because their brake already suck to begin with. Yes the Raider has amazing stopping power, but who has ever grabbed a handful of front brakes that strong? Not me...there comes a point where you want to stop, but not slide.
 

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To the original question. Just do the new brake line. Short money.

Of course, you can get some tricky lines and the price goes up. Then you got to match the throttle cable and then the clutch cable and hey! As long as we're talking clutch maybe go hydraulic. And then, these things got fuggall for fork locks but there's the RoadLok and that's styling and it needs the front left brake line modded for it anyways so might as well do that at the same time. Nice. I just turned a C note mod into a 1500 dollar bling fest. No need to thank me. It's what I do.

With stock pads. I recently installed EBC pads.
So you do a controlled braking thing on a secluded section of blacktop with the stock setup and soapstone the distance.

Repeat without one caliper.

Repeat without one caliper and having swapped in the EBC's.

Math is my friend.

I rode bikes over the years with drums or no front brakes. I'm still here. Running a single caliper front brake is pretty tame. He isn't buying a ticket on the Titanic.

Really, my concern would be more about increased wear than decreased life expectancy. It wouldn't occur to me to do that mod, but then I'm cheap and I paid for both rotors so I want them earning their keep but it ain't my bike he's modding. It's his bike.

We all know the drill. His soap, his dangly bits. He can wash them however he wants.


...but I don't see why a master cylinder designed to drive two calipers would work worse driving only one
It won't.
 

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Hey, if you do strip that right side PM me. I might be able to save you the misery of storing that useless brake line, rotor and caliper on the shelf. Just saying.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the sensible help Pops. It seems like on every forum people are so quick to criticize something different or they don't agree with. I guess they forget about all the old school choppers and older bikes with little or no front brakes. I'm no engineer on master cylinders, but I do know that the caliper is only looking for line pressure...removing half of the line should not affect that. It only has one single brake line going into the cylinder. I think I will give it a shot and see.
 

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So you do a controlled braking thing on a secluded section of blacktop with the stock setup and soapstone the distance.

Repeat without one caliper.

Repeat without one caliper and having swapped in the EBC's.

Math is my friend.

I rode bikes over the years with drums or no front brakes. I'm still here. Running a single caliper front brake is pretty tame. He isn't buying a ticket on the Titanic.
Nope, nothing scientific, just know that that amount of effort to halt the savage beast decreased dramatically once I swap pads.

Common sense would suggest two rotors would provide the capability for increased stopping power since there is twice the area for which to induce such energy. However, I also realize there is a limitation imposed where rubber meets asphalt.

I've only had one bike sans two rotors, that being a Vulcan 750 which is relatively light. I've read enough reviews of braking abilities between two similar bikes, one with two rotors up front and the other just one, to convince me my common sense evaluation holds water.

But since I agree that someone should be able to mod their bike pretty much however they want, I offered my thoughts on how I would accomplish the act. I just would've felt remiss not mentioning the obvious: especially had I read of an accident in future posts. ;)

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Math is my friend.

I rode bikes over the years with drums or no front brakes. I'm still here.
So mathematically speaking, how good are the statistics on a sample of one?
 

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Hey Bob,
Obviously you're not gonna get a lotta love over here about your mod. Head on over to chopped baggers where we we ride our chopped baggers. It's like asking this same kinda question on HD forum. They all give you attitude. Talk to hmd520, Vic baggers, hot Vic's, Witchdoctors etc. and you'll get real answers. Good luck and post pictures. I won't be far behind you. Doing a 23 with trees and rear air. Not sure yet about 1or 2 rotors but it's all good. Plenty of heavy bikes stooping real well with one rotor n six piston calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
True statement. I have been part of so many forums I have lost count. They all are the same. I'll be registering over there soon. It seems like the majority of the motorcycle world hasn't changed. They seemto still like the 16" wheels with fat tires with all the chrome bbuttons and leather tassles they can handle. I prefer the edgier new school look, even though its not the popular choice. That’s why I ride an XC. It's different, stylish, and not a Street Glide like everyone else has
 

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True statement. I have been part of so many forums I have lost count. They all are the same. I'll be registering over there soon. It seems like the majority of the motorcycle world hasn't changed. They seemto still like the 16" wheels with fat tires with all the chrome bbuttons and leather tassles they can handle. I prefer the edgier new school look, even though its not the popular choice. That’s why I ride an XC. It's different, stylish, and not a Street Glide like everyone else has
You must not have read this forum too long. Most of the regulars here ride the poontang out of their bikes. I haven't seen anyone who sings the praises of 16" spoked wheels, balloon tires, or tassles (well except a few of them Hammer guys ;)).

Point is, the bike was designed by engineers who scientifically analyzed the needs of the machine and it was tested extensively before they ever released them to the general public.

You OTOH, are just randomly adding fashionable parts and hoping it turns out okay.

It seemed to me you were making a bike more for show than go and if you aren't going to be hauling ass up and down mountainsides, it will likely be fine. But if you do decide to ride it like that, you might find yourself in for a surprise.

Either way, best of luck with it.
 

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You must not have read this forum too long. Most of the regulars here ride the poontang out of their bikes. I haven't seen anyone who sings the praises of 16" spoked wheels, balloon tires, or tassles (well except a few of them Hammer guys ;)).

Point is, the bike was designed by engineers who scientifically analyzed the needs of the machine and it was tested extensively before they ever released them to the general public.

You OTOH, are just randomly adding fashionable parts and hoping it turns out okay.

It seemed to me you were making a bike more for show than go and if you aren't going to be hauling ass up and down mountainsides, it will likely be fine. But if you do decide to ride it like that, you might find yourself in for a surprise.

Either way, best of luck with it.
I don't think anyone ever said no one here rides their bikes. The statement was made hat chopped bagger guys don't.

As to the bike being designed by engineers yes that's true. But you forgot to add "cost efficiency" as their secondary goal.

The "fashionable parts" you speak of were designed by individual independent engineers to not only look good but perform well when properly installed.

As for performance our chopped baggers ride just a well and sometimes better then stock bikes.

Thanks
Dan
 
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