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Discussion Starter #1
This applies to the 2010 Cross Bikes.

I have been thinking about why the shift linkage on my 2010 CR was so sloppy. Not side to side but up and down. I finely thought I figured it out and today I decided to tear into the problem and see if I was correct. I WAS CORRECT.

I found the the 2 bushings with the hex inside were in perfect shape. The hex shaft that the two internal hex bushings and the shift lever pedal install on, were in fine condition BUT, the internal hex shape of the shift lever pedal were out of shape. The shoulders are worn off. This is because everything is made of steel except for the shift lever, witch is made of aluminum. Please see picture.

The fix is to replace the Shift Lever pedal, Part # 5137197-410 for $104 plus $15.00 shipping. They say you will need the Peg for $14.00 plus $15.00 shipping.

I checked a few web sites and the prices seem about the same.

I don't know if I can get the peg out of the old pedal without destroying it.

The bike has a bit over 25,000 miles on it.
 

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I changed my shifter bushings a few weeks ago and I didn't see anything that looked like that pic...???
What I found were two cheap ass, worn-out bushing that let the shifter flop around like a dying fish. After a little fine sandpaper work, I replaced them with two WD brass bushings and the lever is now flop free.
 

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I changed my shifter bushings a few weeks ago and I didn't see anything that looked like that pic...???
What I found were two cheap ass, worn-out bushing that let the shifter flop around like a dying fish. After a little fine sandpaper work, I replaced them with two WD brass bushings and the lever is now flop free.
PaiN , the older models have a different style ....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I changed my shifter bushings a few weeks ago and I didn't see anything that looked like that pic...???
What I found were two cheap ass, worn-out bushing that let the shifter flop around like a dying fish. After a little fine sandpaper work, I replaced them with two WD brass bushings and the lever is now flop free.
As I stated in my thread starter.(This information is for the 2010 cross bikes only.) The years after 2010 are different.
 

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Get you some new pegs/pedals. You deserve them. There are hundreds of choices on ebay, Witchdoctors, Kuryakyn etc. I bought a set that matched my grips on ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I was going to order a new shift lever pedal, (that's the aluminum casting , not the part you put your foot on), for my bike and I thought if I install another aluminum lever, it is going to deform just like the original one did.

Does anyone have an idea where to get a steel shift lever peddle? This is for the 2010 cross bikes and Vision.. I tried to find one in Chrome but only found aluminum.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a replacement Shift Lever pedal on order.
I could not find one made of steel so I had to order the original Aluminum casting. I will try to be (gentle), with it to make it last.
 

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I have a replacement Shift Lever pedal on order.
I could not find one made of steel so I had to order the original Aluminum casting. I will try to be (gentle), with it to make it last.
where's the photo of what you ordered and why "steel" you would be hard pressed to brake aluminum
 

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I had my oem foot brake and clutch lever chromed on my 2012 CCT. They came out looking beautiful. I have a set of the Witchdoctors brass bushings I had planned to install instead of re-using the oem plastic bushings. After chroming, the brass bushings would have had to be hammered into position. Neither pivot bolt fit the bushing even without being inserted. To my surprise, I re-used the oem plastic bushings. They were a bit loose previously but after chroming the levers, they had to be gently tapped into the levers and the play seems to have been removed.

I suspect the oem plastic bushings will wear in and I'll be inserting the brass ones this time next year.
 

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If we are still talking about the 2010 shift lever being loose, here's what I did to solve that. With everything removed and in my shop. I drilled through the lever and hex shaft for a 1/8" roll pin (or tension pin) that's a bit shorter than the hole in the lever. That's to accommodate a punch to remove it, if needed and it was. As I suspected, the repair loosened in time - years - then I drilled for and inserted the next size up roll pin.
More recently, I found a deal on a chrome shift lever and grabbed it, thinking that the harder chrome plating, plus a reduced inner hex might fit tighter and last longer. It did fit tighter and time will tell how long it lasts. One year, so far.
 

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I did the WD busing fix on my 13 XCT. But for the hex jobs, what if you drill and tap the shifter and install a set screw.
 

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I did the WD busing fix on my 13 XCT. But for the hex jobs, what if you drill and tap the shifter and install a set screw.
I correctly thought that a roll pin would be better and easily upgradable to the next size.
 
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