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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm having this problem when using my Stebel horn. When I use the horn my flasher indicator and cruise control lights on the instrument panel briefly light up when pressing the horn button?? My wiring connection listed below:

30 = (+) Stebel horn red wire
87 = (+) batt pwr
86 = (-) grey wire old horn
85 = (+) blk wire old horn
BATT NEG = (-) Stebel horn blk wire
 

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I wonder if the compressor motor is too much draw for that circuit. I probably would have run a relay; horn button activates the relay, and relay activates the horn. Less draw on the built-in horn circuit.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

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This is a common problem when installing the stebel, wolo, or similar. Lots of threads here and on the V M C.

Seems that following the install directions, relay or not, there is feedback across the horn activation switch back into the circuit. Long presses will pop the 10a fuse and you will lose turn signals, cruise, and horn.

Many different attempts to solve it, including an isolated circuit with an external switch other than the oem one, but that is a fugly solution.

I tried different relays of varying quality with no joy. Kevin Cross made a suggestion of replacing the 10a with a 15a and just carry on. I suppose as long as you only use the horn for short blasts this is a workable solution.

No, I have not tested every possible combination of turns, hazards, cruise, and horn. I have heard of some disengaging the cruise by using the horn, but I have to wonder why that particular scenario occurs.

Bottom line, live with it or change it. I have mine this way for 2+ years with no damage.
Others have opted for the Framm Freeway Blaster mounted in the original position using the original circuit with no external battery connection.

Good Luck.
 

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I wonder if the compressor motor is too much draw for that circuit. I probably would have run a relay; horn button activates the relay, and relay activates the horn. Less draw on the built-in horn circuit.
He is running a relay, the numbers represent the posts on the relay that comes with a Stebel horn.

30 = (+) Stebel horn red wire
87 = (+) batt pwr
86 = (-) grey wire old horn
85 = (+) blk wire old horn
BATT NEG = (-) Stebel horn blk wire
 

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i have the wolo bad boy and i have no problems at all. if you tap into an exisiting circuit, yea you will pull the circuit down. my relay is switched off the stock horn wires. take the two wires off the horn, connect them to the relay coil ( small current drain). the power to the horn is then taken directly to the battery via the of contacts, through a inline 20A fuse. the negative terminal of the horn wired directly to the battery. again, i have no problems at all and i have used it a LOT :)
 

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another thing to try. hook the relay up and just the relay. press the horn button and make sure you can hear the relay click (being energized)
 

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one thing i did notice in the wireing diagram for the vic. I am not sure WHY they ever wired a switch like that. their Engineer must not have passed EET 101. :) but i still dont see how feedback from the relay(switch) can cause this. the relay uses less current than the original horn. I think there is something else. just fyi.
 

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I installed a Wolo 2 years ago with relay to battery and get the same feedback. Works well in any event and I don't worry about it anymore. I think Victory has some quirky wiring at times.
 

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ok folks.. I just tried a test. I hit my horn ( wolo bad boy) and I DID notice the turn signal's 'FLASH'. So I am betting that if they hiccup, the cruise most likely will too. I never noticed this before because I am busy avoiding the idiot that I used the horn on to begin with. Is this a problem ? I am not sure. I am going to try a non air compressor based horn to see if I get the same results. I am wondering if the air compressor is generating some field and the wiring not being shielded will pick this all up as current.
When I installed this originally I looked at the diagram in the service manual and it didn't make sense to me as to WHY they wired the horn the way they did. Being an Electrical Engineer I found it pretty stupid.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
i have the wolo bad boy and i have no problems at all. if you tap into an exisiting circuit, yea you will pull the circuit down. my relay is switched off the stock horn wires. take the two wires off the horn, connect them to the relay coil ( small current drain). the power to the horn is then taken directly to the battery via the of contacts, through a inline 20A fuse. the negative terminal of the horn wired directly to the battery. again, i have no problems at all and i have used it a LOT :)
See my original post it shows you how I have connected the wiring to the relay using the OEM horn wiring. IT's the same as you describe.
 

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If I had to guess I'd say the issue is the relay itself. When you press the button for your horn you energize the coil in the relay causing the switch side to close and the horn to sound. When you release the button, the magnetic field that the coil generated collapses. Changing magnetic field near a wire creates electricity. Without looking at the Vic wiring diagram or knowing for sure what type of bulbs the gauge indicators are (but I'm assuming LED's), my guess is that the relay coil is inducing a small electric current back into the circuit. That current will seek out a path to ground (physics). Since LED's require so little current to operate, that induced charge is probably enough to light them up briefly. The solution, assuming this is the problem, is a common diode wired across the coil terminals of the relay as shown in the picture below. This will not allow power to pass under normal use but when a reverse voltage is created, it will be shunted across the diode to ground without affecting anything else on that circuit.
Trying this will hurt absolutely nothing, even if my theory is wrong the diode won't cause any issues on it's own. You can pick up a 1n4004 or similar diode at radioshack for probably about a buck so it'd be a cheap and easy test to see if it helps.

 

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NAPA makes a relay with the diode built in. NAPA # AR204
I did not have any luck with it solving the problem.

YMMV
 

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I'm onboard with rocketo, gamewarden, et al.: I just live with the signal-flash quirk. I have a relay, 20-amp fuse, 16-gauge wire.

In fact, I never even noticed this flash quirk until the subject came up in some post on this or the V-O-G a year or so ago. It's not as if I use the horn all that often... and I'm pretty sure I've never used the horn with the cruise on -- have to try that some time.

I do know that the turn signals, the ECM monitoring of them, etc., is a very strange area. About a year ago, I hooked up Rivco LED mirrors. (I have a really extensive, or really boring -- depending on your point of view -- write-up of that work, here: http://www.billanddot.com/adding-rivco-led-mirrors.html ). As that document describes, I would up using a trailer isolator, after failing to simply tap into existing circuits to activate the turn signals on the mirrors; doing so resulted in very strange behavior, mostly just having them fail to blink (and I've read that if you're not careful with that sort of thing, you can cause the ECM to crap out, but I have no first-hand knowledge of that). OTOH, I recently tapped into the trunk wiring without incident -- no relays, isolators, etc. -- when adding a flasher (see http://www.billanddot.com/customled-brake-light-flasher.html ).

So, yeah, the stock turn signals are very touchy, and who knows why they do anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Okay I took the bike on a test ride and what I'm noticing is that my left side turn signal flashes much quicker then the rt side. Not sure why this is happening. A wiring diagram would sure help.
 

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Well The relay on the wolo set up draws only 250 ma . So the relay is not causing this. I remember looking at the schematic for this circuit and wondering why they wired the horn like this. I personally think it is a design flaw. according to the schematic the relay that comes with the horn is energized with the ignition switch. the contacts are engaged one the ignition switch are turn on. the original horn is turned on when the switch is closed. the power to the original horn passes through the switch. i am not sure why they even put a relay in there if they wired it like this. i will post a schematic that I have according to the service manual
 

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It may be an Electromagnetic Interference (EMI) problem. The interference could be transmitted via the wiring or, depending on where the horn is mounted, it could also be induced into the circuit.

First try connecting the horn with long wires and keep it as far away from the dash as possible. If it does fix your problem see if there is another place you can mount the horn further away from the dash. If you still have the problem then its not being caused by induced EMI but it still may be causing interference via the power line. You could test it by connecting everything normally except use a different vehicle's batter to power just the horn. If the problem goes away an in-line DC noise filter may clear it up.

I'm an electronics technician, not an electrical engineer. However, I've seen EMI cause a lot of strange problem over the years.
 
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