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Discussion Starter #1
So I live in Alaska, my bike sits in the heated garage on a trickle charger from late October too late April every year. And every spring I find myself spending my time on the throne revisiting all the awsome oil debates. Regardless of your oil brand choice I have two questions for all the forum experts on here.

1. After sitting 6 months do you prefer too change your oil before starting it, or go for your first ride and change it after the bike is good and warm.

This is assuming that you will change the oil every spring regardless of current mileage on the oil.

2. I see several posts recommending 4oz of Lucas break in oil too be added too your oil of choice, is this for new owners in the break in stage, or are people running this all the time at every change?

Also would accept any suggestions of thing that people would recommend paying attention too after a bike sits for such a long period. Most years I will recharge the k&n and change out my plugs as its 6$ and gives me something too do as I'm chomping at the bit before the snow melts.
 

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if you bike has been sitting for 5 months and has contaminated oil in why would you go for ride and spread all that oil around in your motor before changing it.
Change it then go for ride.

Break in oil is worthless with today's motors and oils. If it was that big of deal don't you think the factor would recommend it in the owner's book.

check air in tires lube throttle cables and do full maintenance on clutch lever.
You don't say what year or model bike you have but wash the belt with a tooth brush every oil change
 

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I was always told you should change the oil before you let it sit instead of waiting until spring. Too late now so change it now, but for the future I would change before sitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Well, there are a lot of different approaches too things. And I was more looking for opinions as there seems too be a lot of technical people on here whereas anyone i know simply does stuff "because".

I'm gathering your of the opinion that the oil should be changed before the first start up obviously. Which is the less common way of doing things here surprisingly.

And as far as the break in oil it's just something I've seen repeated in a lot of posts in oil threads so a few believe in it, and via the oil threads there are a lot of people not doing what the owner manual says lol.

My ride is a 2012 highball, but the bike model isn't really relevant too the questions.

Anyway at least you replied so thanks lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I havnt heard that one before blue. Most I've talked too say even if you only have a few 100 miles on the current oil, do a spring change after sitting.
 

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When living on the prairies I too put the bike away for about 6 months at a time. The oil got changed preferably in the fall so the bad stuff wasn't sitting there turning into sludge for that long. However, if it had been in for less than half the usual 5000 km I let it sit because it would be fine. I don't take short trips so letting it sit with moisture in the oil was never a problem. If your circumstances are different and you do take short trips, you can extend the time a bit so your oil change gets done when it gets winterized. In short, don't store it with bad fluids in it and give them time to get nastier.

Being put away for that length of time in an unheated shed I always fogged the engine, treated the fuel and moved the seat into the house. Fogging protects the top end that won't be sitting in oil. At that time I also had to check the antifreeze but with the Vic that's no longer a needed step. I'm sure a few other things as well that escape me at the moment. Covered it with a breathable non-wicking material bike cover and let her rest. If it's kept in an unheated shed like mine was, leave it alone. No starting it to warm it up or just wanting to hear it. No uncovering it. Nadda.


Also look after and cosmetic and repair items in the fall or over the winter so you're ready to go as soon as the gravel/sand comes off the road. The added bonus of fogging the engine will be to wipe out some of your famous mosquitoes when you start it up. Not to worry, just make sure your own house is upwind.

Contrary to VJ's opinion, modern oil is exactly the reason I add Lucas to every oil change on a bike since the late 70's.

PS Battery out and in the house at prairie temperatures. Charged it up about once a month. Batteries typically laste 5 or 6 years and got changed whether they needed it or not.
 

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I found this about the subject.

Change the oil before you store the bike. Old oil contains combustion by-products and other nasty stuff. So do an oil and filter change now that the bike is still warm from being run. This is probably the second-most important step of storage, and possibly the only one that will cause permanent damage if skipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I appreciate the responses. I'll do some Google on it and likely make it the way I do things in the future.

Do you use the break in oil from Lucas or something different. When I went too look at the break in oil it recommended using for the first 1000 miles then draining so I was confused on why it would make a good additive too run constant.

I'll have too google what fogging a engine is also lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I like that idea of turning it over with the plugs out, I think that's the main reason I spend so much time even thinking about this subject in early spring is concern for the top end with all my oil drained down over months.

That fogging sounds interesting but doesn't look like its recommended for newer models. I usually add a bottle of motorcycle octane boost for my first ride. I tend too park on about 1/2 a tank and first stop is always too get fresh fuel lol and I add in the octane. In my head it helps with the old gas. You think some marvel mystery oil would be a better way too go maybe in my last tank of fuel before parking for winter?
 

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i'm in the same school of thought as Cool Blue. Change it right before parking it for the winter, just like moving it around the shed every couple of weeks so its not sitting on the same spots of the tires all winter long... got a specific ritual for putting mine away, but since this is just about the oil, i have heard the same thing from several sources... it might be a little bit of a pain or might cost a little extra here and there, but its small insurance to keep my bike running like a swiss clock..
 

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I usually add a bottle of motorcycle octane boost for my first ride. I tend too park on about 1/2 a tank and first stop is always too get fresh fuel lol and I add in the octane. In my head it helps with the old gas. You think some marvel mystery oil would be a better way too go maybe in my last tank of fuel before parking for winter?
You should add a can of SeaFoam and fill the tank full before you park it for the winter. SeaFoam can be bought at most auto parts outlets. It's a fuel stabilizer and fuel system cleaner. The stuff literally works wonders.

Never leave the tank partly full ie 1/2 or 3/4 tank ... fill 'er up M8T !
 

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I always did a cheap oil change before the bike went up, but left the filter alone, when it was time to break it out for the season, I changed over to my normal oil and changed the filter.
 

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The bits of info I endorse are....
+ Store with a full tank with a fuel stabilizer that was put in at the last fill-up so its all throughout the system.
+ Put fresh oil in just prior to storage, but take good ride to circulate it throughout the engine.
+ Attach an automatic battery tender.
+ Change brake fluid at least ever 2 years, it is hydrogenous (absorbs moisture) and can corrode calipers.
+ Never start ANY engine unless you are going to get it to full operating temperature. For a bike or car, that would be about 20+ travel minutes.
+ Before the first spring start-up, place a room heater with a fan in it by the engine for about an hour, that warms the oil, engine and battery. Makes life easier for them. Batteries are down on power when cold and oil is thick when cold.
+ Place a couple pieces of plywood under the tires to insulate them from the concrete. No need to move bike then.
+ I have had chemical engineers who work for oil companies tell me to NEVER add anything to motor oils as they are a finely balanced recipe of additives and adding to that upsets that balance. They say there are additives there to prevent dry start-up, etc. You decide.
 

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fuel injector cleaners sea foam and gas stable and bad gas can cause gas tank liner to root away.
Good point ... assuming there IS a liner in the tank. I've never noticed one in any of my bikes .... maybe I should look closer?

That said, I'd like to see more documented proof that SeaFoam will cause that.

I have had to have a tank cleaner and a liner installed by a shop on an older bike that had rust in the tank ... which was probably caused by leaving it sit outside for several years with next to no gas.
 

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Before I started it in the spring, I'd pull the plugs and crank the engine several times just to get the lubricants "flowing" so to speak.
Yes I used to do this before STORAGE the bike, / plugs out / crank engine / all cylinder walls are covered in oil /

Then when out-of-stottage same thing, plugs out / crank engine

Did that for years when I living in Holland ... Real shitty weather and the bike was always outside when i was home ... Summer or winter ... When the bike went into my living room it could be summer or winter ...

That's how I it did anyway ...



TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 

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Yes I used to do this before STORAGE the bike, / plugs out / crank engine / all cylinder walls are covered in oil /

Then when out-of-stottage same thing, plugs out / crank engine

Did that for years when I living in Holland ... Real shitty weather and the bike was always outside when i was home ... Summer or winter ... When the bike went into my living room it could be summer or winter ...
Now you have to ward off Island Style Coast Cancer. :eek
 

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To me, it depends on how many miles since the last oil change. Unless you get excessive moisture in the oil, I see no problem with it sitting over the winter and then using it in the spring without changing the oil
 
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