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Discussion Starter #1
So currently waiting for a Victory trouble ticket answer but figured I would reach out here. I searched but did not find what I was asking, or at least not using the search terms I was using.

I had the Stage 1 flash, filter and Tri Pro put on my Judge. Now the RPM does not drop off when the throttle is closed. It acts like fuel is still going into the throttle bodies and supplying it to the engine. Being that the throttle is mechanical we looked at all those pieces. Everything closes properly, no loose or disconnected hoses, no exhaust leaks etc. I suggested redoing the ECU flash but apparently that costs money and unless Victory authorizes it not going to be free. Any thoughts from anyone else on what the issue might be?

This isn't a judgement against my dealer, I understand not wanting to do free work etc.
 

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Stock flashes are free. I don't see why they could not use the same code to reflash the Stg 1 you already purchased.

Good luck with this.

Ride safe.
 

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Maybe your IAV is not working or there is a air leak
 

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I had the Stage 1 flash, filter and Tri Pro put on my Judge. Now the RPM does not drop off when the throttle is closed. It acts like fuel is still going into the throttle bodies and supplying it to the engine.
Is this occurring intermittently or all the time?
 

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Who put on the upgrades? The dealer? If so the dealer needs to fix this.

Is it possible that the Idle Air Control is not plugged in? Certainly sounds like it is not working correctly, and allowing too much air into the motor at idle.


m
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That is what it sounds like to me as well. They didn't work on this area of the bike however. The dealer did out it on and they are talking to Victory. There is no leak or loose hoses, we looked. I agree with the assessment. Damn thing runs great otherwise at this point. It is just a little dangerous when it runs out the RPM and you are rolling off the throttle for a turn.
 

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That is what it sounds like to me as well. They didn't work on this area of the bike however. The dealer did out it on and they are talking to Victory. There is no leak or loose hoses, we looked. I agree with the assessment. Damn thing runs great otherwise at this point. It is just a little dangerous when it runs out the RPM and you are rolling off the throttle for a turn.
I'm doubting it's the flash, classic symptom of an intake air leak. A good tech should be able to diagnose this easily with a can of carb cleaner sprayed around the intake boot area while it's idling.
 

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That is what it sounds like to me as well. They didn't work on this area of the bike however. The dealer did out it on and they are talking to Victory. There is no leak or loose hoses, we looked. I agree with the assessment. Damn thing runs great otherwise at this point. It is just a little dangerous when it runs out the RPM and you are rolling off the throttle for a turn.
Thats a good one Wil and my head hurts from thinking about it.
My only idea is Queer Electrons that we can't see.
Focus on the dangerous part and they might get off there asses.
They re done my JackPot a couple times just because I complained of it starting different. Good luck man.thumb upthumb up
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. Just came back in after re-verifying it is not a vacuum leak. Sprayed everything with carb cleaner and nothing. So back to electrics or flash issue.
 

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Thanks. Just came back in after re-verifying it is not a vacuum leak. Sprayed everything with carb cleaner and nothing. So back to electrics or flash issue.
I would have them get auth from Victory to reflash back to stock (which is free) to test the corrupt upload theory... then assuming that fixes it, get mama Vic to give you another Stage 1 calibration....
 

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I would have them get auth from Victory to reflash back to stock (which is free) to test the corrupt upload theory... then assuming that fixes it, get mama Vic to give you another Stage 1 calibration....
I would bet against it being a flashed map issue. Even if the map were corrupt, I could see how it could run like crap, but not keep running.

Supposedly, when you disconnect the O2 sensors it runs off the open loop map alone (otherwise it also takes direction from MAP and O2 sensors). Might be worth pulling the O2s and see if it helps.
 

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I had the same issue when I installed Lloyds IAV. The bike ran fine and dropped idle when it rolled off but was popping so I got the IAV. I installed it and it had issue where I would let off the throttle and it would snap back shut (could see it was closed on throttle body) but the rpms would sit around 12-1500 rpm longer than it should. Took out the IAV and it went back to normal. I would unplug the stock valve and then cycle the key a couple times to make sure the valve is functioning properly...you will hear a kind of air shudder when the bike is turned off...that's the valve cycling.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Thanks I will try that!

Spoke to my dealer again and that is what he is thinking as well. Will be taking it in tomorrow unless Ma Vic suggests something else.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well not the IAV assembly. Victory said it lost it's programming and they need to ride it 10-20 minutes at just off idle speeds so it can relearn. Not sure I buy that, but hey I didn't design the thing. I trust my dealer at the end of the day so here's hoping I get my wheels back soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well Victory knows what they are talking about. Dealer got it to learn the new fueling by riding it like Vic said and it cleared up. If you blip at idle it hangs a little, like a lean condition issue. When riding life is good. The dealer had even replaced the IAC before doing what Vic suggested because it seemed so odd.
 
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