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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a new 2016 Hammer a few months ago. The bike has always idled around 900 to 850 rpm when hot, and I had a single stall at a gas station back when the bike had less than 500 miles. A few weeks ago, I had a Stage 1 exhaust and air filter installed, and I took it to a Vic/Indian shop to have the re-tune installed. The bike ran better (than stock) after that and I noticed that my idle was now smooth and 50 rpm's higher. Wonderful. Then, after about a week I noticed that my idle was back to "normal", which means it's back to being 900 to 850 rpm (according to the digital instrument) and not quite as smooth as right after the re-tune.

The other day, about 8 miles from home, as I approached a stop sign and began to downshift the engine stalled. I coasted to a stop, turned off the key, back on and restarted the bike. I was so surprised and upset about this I ended up just riding back home. Doing a search I found several old threads about this issue...but didn't see anything firm about a fix. A modern fuel-injected motor should NEVER stall. Has this been resolved and if so what't the fix? If I have one more stall I'll call the shop that did the re-flash and talk with the service manager. Maybe there is now a trouble code. Any info?
 

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I purchased a new 2016 Hammer a few months ago. The bike has always idled around 900 to 850 rpm when hot, and I had a single stall at a gas station back when the bike had less than 500 miles. A few weeks ago, I had a Stage 1 exhaust and air filter installed, and I took it to a Vic/Indian shop to have the re-tune installed. The bike ran better (than stock) after that and I noticed that my idle was now smooth and 50 rpm's higher. Wonderful. Then, after about a week I noticed that my idle was back to "normal", which means it's back to being 900 to 850 rpm (according to the digital instrument) and not quite as smooth as right after the re-tune.

The other day, about 8 miles from home, as I approached a stop sign and began to downshift the engine stalled. I coasted to a stop, turned off the key, back on and restarted the bike. I was so surprised and upset about this I ended up just riding back home. Doing a search I found several old threads about this issue...but didn't see anything firm about a fix. A modern fuel-injected motor should NEVER stall. Has this been resolved and if so what't the fix? If I have one more stall I'll call the shop that did the re-flash and talk with the service manager. Maybe there is now a trouble code. Any info?
My 2015 cross country stalled one time in 3 years. Once I restarted it, several idiot lights were on, as well as the turn signal arrows. The signals worked fine, but the lights were always on. I immediately checked my battery connections and fuses. No fuses were bad, but it's good to check. The battery connections were not loose, per se, but they are an excellent starting point for problems on Victory bikes. Snug them down, use star lock washers, etc. I'd start there, if it were me.
Good luck
 

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Mine use to stall at various inopportune moments for no apparent reason. This continued after servicing the battery and other connections. What fixed it was the PCV and Kevin tuned it.
 

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I had the same problem, especially when a traffic light turned green,it would cough and quit. Disconnecting the O2 sensors helped a lot. Installing Lloydz adjustable IAV helped more. Installing Lloydz timing wheel helped even a lot more. Then a forum member offered up a used VFCIII at a price I couldn't refuse - it helped a wee bit more. But what really got things running smooth and strong was hooking up a digital AFR meter (again, bought used from a forum member) and adjusting the VFCIII to provide the AFR richness I want the engine to run at all speeds and in real world conditions. Bike and rider are now very happy.
Do placed lock washers under the battery bolts. Gremlins keep sneaking in and loosen them.
 

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Battery connection can be tight but still not have a good connection due to corrosion building up between the battery terminal(s) and eye connector. That's why it's always recommended to remove, clean with wire brush, then reconnect all using a star washer.
 

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Wont that Starter relay up front left of battery cause the problem if its not stable!? I watched a Video and they guys at The Vic Shop pointed that out that it could be jumping on an ohm meter or totally fail and not start there. Basically a **** battery connection you cant tighten down. But this shouldn't be happening in the newer Magnum relays. He said they fixed that.
 

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I'm sure my thread was one of the more recent threads you came across. As others have stated, first step with a Victory is checking those battery connections and snugging them up. In my case, my plugs were gapped too far apart. I replaced the plugs and set them at the minimum tolerance. So far, my bike which I just threw the cover back on a minute ago, is running just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Went on an extended ride yesterday. No issues and the bike runs strong. If I have another stall I'll take it to the shop that did the re-tune and see if there are any codes. On another forum most members say it's a fuel mapping problem that's fairly common with victory tunes.
 

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All of the above....
plus dont blip it going back to first.
Our Fuel Injection dont like a quick stab at the throttle
 

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Spacecoast

the only fuel mapping you would have is in the ECM and that what the dealer just did. Sounds like the dealer might not of gotten it right. You might want to go see now. If would be a bitch to be out in the countryside and have it stall and not start up
 
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