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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting issues and wires disconnected (Solve)

Hello, my name its Manny; new to the forum and Victory itself. owned other bike prior.
my bike its a 1999 Victory V99c current 8k miles on it.

Note:
-PO: previous owner
-VR: voltage regulator
-Batt: battery

History:
Don't have any of the bike, guy who sold it to me got it from a friend and been sitting for around 1 year because it had charging issues.

Problem:
-VR has a ground and possitive cables disconnected, there is no terminal for its end. (PO told me to just hook it up to batt and should be good).
-Even with the VR connected to the batt still have not spark.
-CEL is flashing(may due to low charge batt i was using).

Diagnostic:
-VR its new and 38 amps one (tested and its consistent on 0.542 the three pins and 0 value if inverted)
-Stator its in good condition (tested as well and values are 0.89 and 0 value if ground to engine)

Question:
Which is the positive side and Negative side of the original connector for the VR? Or i can just hook it to the batt as PO adv me?
What else can cause a no spark on this bike other than (no - or +, or bad CPS)?
What else should i look for or check?

thanks i hope you have have a wonderful end of year. New rider from Las Vegas!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks a lot for the post, will conduct the test today and post result, also the bat i was trying to use was sitting for around 3 months, and notice that fully functional and charged battery its crucial for this bike, yikes!!!
thanks
 

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thanks a lot for the post, will conduct the test today and post result, also the bat i was trying to use was sitting for around 3 months, and notice that fully functional and charged battery its crucial for this bike, yikes!!!
thanks
A good working battery is necessary for pretty much any fuel injected car or bike with an ECM. All those little circuits need the correct voltage to do their job.

I hope you get it running soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well, i tested everything today, with my car batt and car on, givin 13.9V all the time, and nothing still no starting, check computer pins as the manual adv, and every sensor is connected and working, every ohm was matching the one on the manual, so thats a good plus meaning my wire is not fried, now connected the VR direct to batt or to the pins as shown and nothing bike still doesnt start up, it cranks but nothing and feels like batt is not enough even at 13.9V constant.

checked voltage to coils, front one its getting 13.9V, and rear one only 8.9V, also notice that none of the lugs are providing spark. CPS its good.
checked compression, Front cylinder 100PSI, rear 80PSI, putted a bit oil in it as manual adv and front cylinder raised to 125PSI rear to 100PSI, this tells me that something its wrong with this engine, compression its low but they hold the pressure.
even though with that compression engine should be able to start unless there is a valve stuck close.
any other adv, before i started by buying 2 new coils which seems to be the cheaper solution first and then taking apart the engine or buying another?
thanks.
 

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It wouldn't be a valve stuck closed. The only possibility with that would be a valve stuck open but then you wouldn't get the compression you are. I wouldn't sweat those levels of compression. Heck; a can of "Restore" could equal out that variance.

With the plugs out, using something to insulate your hand from the plug/plug wire, touch each one to the cylinder while you turn it over to see if you get spark.

I would also double/triple check the ground wire going to the frame from your battery. A hard/sluggish turn over like that could also mean there's junk in the starter so a good cleaning of the armature and brushes may be in order. Most the time a new starter isn't needed unless the winding are shot/burned. Give it a good sniff when it's apart.

You've determined you have compression, and once you've determined you have spark, the only thing left is fuel/air. If you've tried to start it with the plugs in and they get wet then you know you're getting fuel. With all three, comp, fuel/air, and spark, your engine should start.

I had an engine that had all three but still wouldn't start. Turned out the plugs were bad so even though they could spark on the outside of the cylinder; they wouldn't fire under the load of compression.

It's all a process of elimination.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It wouldn't be a valve stuck closed. The only possibility with that would be a valve stuck open but then you wouldn't get the compression you are. I wouldn't sweat those levels of compression. Heck; a can of "Restore" could equal out that variance.

With the plugs out, using something to insulate your hand from the plug/plug wire, touch each one to the cylinder while you turn it over to see if you get spark.

I would also double/triple check the ground wire going to the frame from your battery. A hard/sluggish turn over like that could also mean there's junk in the starter so a good cleaning of the armature and brushes may be in order. Most the time a new starter isn't needed unless the winding are shot/burned. Give it a good sniff when it's apart.

You've determined you have compression, and once you've determined you have spark, the only thing left is fuel/air. If you've tried to start it with the plugs in and they get wet then you know you're getting fuel. With all three, comp, fuel/air, and spark, your engine should start.

I had an engine that had all three but still wouldn't start. Turned out the plugs were bad so even though they could spark on the outside of the cylinder; they wouldn't fire under the load of compression.

It's all a process of elimination.
understood, engine doesn't even spark outside cylinder, i will check starter as you mention that's a big plus for the hard starting for sure.
when i remove plugs they were blank and wet, and also sometimes it backfire up bcus engine has to much fuel, but a compression backfire not the fire one. i will get new plug tomorrow, clean the starter, and recheck the ground as advise.
i know the compression i'm showing its low but its still enough to fire for sure and i left the gauge for 1 min on each cylinder and it keep it there no drop.
now how bad its that compression for this engine?

i like this forum at least people here read and respond (Vulcan, gsxr and boulevard) they dont, were my previous bikes.
 

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That's a good question about what the compression should read on a healthy Victory engine. I know there were different compression ratios through the years. I'm not sure what is considered normal. Perhaps it's somewhere in the service manual.

On older cars the rule of thumb is to simply look for similar readings across all cylinders. If one or more is significantly lower, like 40-80 psi lower, then one can assume there's either a bad valve(s) or bad rings. Of course everyone hopes it's the valves because that's a lot easier to fix than rings. If it's rings; then a full rebuild is in order or a new/used engine. Neither is good though and neither is cheap to fix.

Oh; and plug wires do wear out as well. The last time I changed them on my Kingpin I used 2 wires from a set for a Ford Focus I matched up by sight on ebay for a lot cheaper than getting them through Victory or one of the more expensive manufacturers.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/IGNITION-SPARK-PLUG-WIRES-FORD-FOCUS-L4-2-0L-2000-2004-USA-cable-8-mm-SOHC-ONLY/330900085831?epid=75590340&hash=item4d0b2e9c47:g:oV0AAMXQCtlRWOZ1:rk:1:pf:0

You would have to look at the ends of yours to see if this set would also work for you.
 

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Compression ratio is stated in the manual, but i do not remember the number PSI for this, i think i saw it on a vic youtube video ...

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
well engine compression ration its 8.5:1 by manual. now
las vegas NV, its at 2001ft elevation

to convert ratio to psi in compression:
14.696 its the atmospheric pressure at sea level, X= compression ratio.
(X*14.696)/1
since las vegas is at 2001ft elevation over the sea level it will be equal to 13.66AP
(8.5*13.66)/1=166.11PSI
so i think my compression is somewhere how good on the engine.
now my spark plug wires are different that the one you post, they actually say AUDI spark plug.
will work on the bike now that my wife its leaving so she doesn't bother me. will post in a bit hopefully with some good news
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update:
took out the starter when open it up, ohhhh boy it was dirty dirty dirty can barely see the cooper wires or anything, blew everything out with compressed air, cleaned everything inspected wires and coal at the bottom they were good, everything smells good, close back up put it in, and yes it was a lot of change now the bike turns way better, can still be better but this time its way better.
Now i measure the spark plug wires and they both have good reading compared to stock ohm on new wires; tried the spark outside the engine, i see the spark but its tinny, i put old plugs i have from old bike and there its a huge difference it evens jump from the plug to the engine. so definitely getting new plugs and giving another try, let see which autopart carry those so i don't have to order them online and wait.
About the compression i see other engine from vids that people post the compression but i didnt notice they were different year than mines; thats why the 180PSI statement earlier.

thanks for the big heads up here.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
put new set of NGK 6E, andplace a batt and a jumper just in case and she fired right up, now seems to be having a little issue with rear cylinder injector i had to move the wire so it start throwing fuel, and kind of hesitate a little when accelerate, it may be bcus its still open, no exhaust on since i did the starter, hope that when install that back and let her warm up it goes away. lets see how it end in the afternoon when finish her, hope its over
 

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Discussion Starter #14
sorry for the late post, put back all the pipes for the exhaust, i have aftermarket not baffles straight pipes on the bike, also notice that intake under the tank its open as well you can see the entire filter; have a West Virginia Super Chip on the EC.
bike start right away on her own batt, she its charging as well 14.2V.
no i notice that she is missing some fuel she backfires some times throwing flame in the back and hesitates at low RPMs some times a little.
but she its all done.
also need to read on the forum why my MFD its not working, its stuck at trip miles if i hit SET nothing happens, but if i left it press it change from M to K so i know something does.

thank you all for the help really appreciate.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
never mind never saw another button on the right handle with mode on it that change through the functions.
i have a question is it possible that mileage on the bike reset itself?
my bike its showing only 26 miles, she its trip was set to 0 and everything else show ok, but mileage only 26. how is this possible?
 

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Hey doitmanny I can't answer your last question but I just wanted to jump in and congratulate you on sticking with a problem that obviously stumped the previous owner. Following along through the steps you took and the information that was shared by forumites is a valuable teaching tool and now it is documented for future seekers to learn from your story. Thanks for sharing.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey doitmanny I can't answer your last question but I just wanted to jump in and congratulate you on sticking with a problem that obviously stumped the previous owner. Following along through the steps you took and the information that was shared by forumites is a valuable teaching tool and now it is documented for future seekers to learn from your story. Thanks for sharing.
it was a pleasure, and sure a honor being part of this community, i really hopes this helps some one some day.
and about the odometer, i read and talked to Rylan from TheVicShop, and he confirmed this happens on this bikes 03 models and previously, and that there is nothing to do to restore old data for it. that its cause when battery drains and its install on the bike.
 
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