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Discussion Starter #1
Does extend warranty cover stator or regulator?
08 vision running at around 70mph with heated grips on
HID on and heated jacket on my amp gage went from 14.3v
to I'll say 13.7v and back up to 14.4v. Jacket was not getting me warm.
Shut off HID and jacket warmed me right up.
Shut every thing off and volts still went up and down. Checked
battery terminals and they were tight.
Today checked battery (still original) and it was at 12.4v
Started bike up and at idle 14.3v turned every thing on
and volts would drop to 13.7v and back you to 14.3v over and over.
Bike starts right up every time runs food no missing.
Am scared something is going bad but don't know what
and warranty runs out next spring.
Any one ells have this problem?
 

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Volt meter shows battery voltage only and you do have a 5 year old battery that can be near the end of its life. I like to do the cheap and easy things first and a battery load test would be first on the list for me. Just guessing, but I would think the regulator and alternator would be covered...ask your dealer.
 

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The Polaristar website reads like it should cover your regulator or stator if thats the coverage you have. Here's the link: http://www.polaris.com/en-us/Vehicles/Pages/ESC-FAQ.aspx

The following was taken from their FAQ:

What does the POLARISTAR Protection Plus Program cover?
The POLARISTAR Protection Plus Program covers the repair or replacement of factory installed mechanical and electrical parts in the event of a covered mechanical breakdown.
Please refer to a state-specific extended service contract for details and exclusions for your state.

My regulator went out a couple of months ago although the bike was only 9 mos old. One day the voltage just started bouncing up and down, eventually I ended up getting a "high voltage" code on my screen... Checked the battery connections, took it to the dealer and they diagnosed and replaced my regulator. No issues since...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Volt meter shows battery voltage only and you do have a 5 year old battery that can be near the end of its life. I like to do the cheap and easy things first and a battery load test would be first on the list for me. Just guessing, but I would think the regulator and alternator would be covered...ask your dealer.
I bet I'm miss understanding you.
When you turn the key on the gage will show you battery voltage only.
When you start the bike the gage will tell you the charging system only.
Thats where it throws me with the gage jumping around I don't think it tells me nothing about the battery.
 

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The Polaristar website reads like it should cover your regulator or stator if thats the coverage you have. Here's the link: http://www.polaris.com/en-us/Vehicles/Pages/ESC-FAQ.aspx

The following was taken from their FAQ:

What does the POLARISTAR Protection Plus Program cover?
The POLARISTAR Protection Plus Program covers the repair or replacement of factory installed mechanical and electrical parts in the event of a covered mechanical breakdown.
Please refer to a state-specific extended service contract for details and exclusions for your state.

My regulator went out a couple of months ago although the bike was only 9 mos old. One day the voltage just started bouncing up and down, eventually I ended up getting a "high voltage" code on my screen... Checked the battery connections, took it to the dealer and they diagnosed and replaced my regulator. No issues since...
Thomas
I have heard of this "high voltage code" problem on a HD. It took 3 shops to fix it. The HD shop in Salem and the Eugene HD shop couldn't figure it out. My brother's shop in Springfield (GCMC) figured it out right away. The positive terminal was loose, causing the regulator to work extra hard to apply voltage to the battery.

Johnny
I agree with Ritz.
If your battery is close to 5 years old, there is a good chance that it is the problem.
 

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Don't know about load variables VJ but the numbers sound like the alternator is doing its job and the battery is doing its job but the voltage regulator is struggling. Could be shot but it could be a short in a user or a bad connection . Good idea to find the culprit since voltage spikes continue to do harm.
Load test battery due to age. Check and reseat primary charging system connections. If that doesn't do it, do shop tests to VR and alt.
 

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alternator is max 48 amps
minus
engine /ecm 15
fuel pump 10
headlight/brakes all lights 20
tail lights flashers horn 15
ignition/gauges 15
accessory 15
equal 90

now you change the lights so amps is higher, added grips to accessory so that is maxed out and I am going to guess and say on your heated coat you went straight to the battery.
So I will answer your question with this question. How is a 48 amp alternator suppose to charge a battery if you are going over it's maximum capacity ??? You need at least a 75 amp alternator....

Electricity is my thing and you always get questions about not enough power.
 

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Electricity is my thing and you always get questions about not enough power.
Ooh, ooh, ooh, I have a question about electricity. From what I can determine, there is a horn relay incorporated into my XR's system, is that right? If so, could it handle a couple of those coiled trumpet horns like are found on so many cars?
 

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The air pump for the air horn takes a 30 amp fuse and wire size for 30 amp. I have one on my Silverado truck and it is 135 db. So if you have room for the horns and the pump , go for it. cheers

ho.jpg
 

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The air pump for the air horn takes a 30 amp fuse and wire size for 30 amp. I have one on my Silverado truck and it is 135 db. So if you have room for the horns and the pump , go for it. cheers

View attachment 40170
Not air, just regular electric car horns. Might mount them on crash bars at top, close to frame.
 

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Ooh, ooh, ooh, I have a question about electricity. From what I can determine, there is a horn relay incorporated into my XR's system, is that right? If so, could it handle a couple of those coiled trumpet horns like are found on so many cars?
The bike does not come with the relay. It is only necessary if the horn you are installing is going to draw a lot.
 

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The bike does not come with the relay. It is only necessary if the horn you are installing is going to draw a lot.
I swore I saw a horn relay in the fuse box, but I had to ask. Thanks.
 

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Does extend warranty cover stator or regulator?
08 vision running at around 70mph with heated grips on
HID on and heated jacket on my amp gage went from 14.3v
to I'll say 13.7v and back up to 14.4v. Jacket was not getting me warm.
Shut off HID and jacket warmed me right up.
Shut every thing off and volts still went up and down. Checked
battery terminals and they were tight.
Today checked battery (still original) and it was at 12.4v
Started bike up and at idle 14.3v turned every thing on
and volts would drop to 13.7v and back you to 14.3v over and over.
Bike starts right up every time runs food no missing.
Am scared something is going bad but don't know what
and warranty runs out next spring.
Any one ells have this problem?
Did you ever fix this problem? Was it the regulator?


Sent from Motorcycle.com App
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Put in new battery and nothing has changed except when at stop light and every thing is on the volts drop to guessing 13.6.
Dealer wants $49.95 to check it and if its bad there is a $50 deductible to pay. New regulator is $164.95 so not much savings.
I would try and check my regulator my self but dealer will still charge me to check it.
Before volts would drop to 13.8 when doing 70 mph now it hasn't done that yet.
Don't know what to do.
 

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VJ,
Not sure if the Vic symptoms are the same, but the stator is in the same location as my Vulcan. My stator went out on that bike last year. I began to hear a sort of whining sound. Couldn't put my finger on it. Then one day I was riding with my wife on the back and the bike just stopped. The battery was dead and hence the EFI stopped. Replaced the battery and all was well for 2 days.....but still that kind of strange whine. It happened again....bike died...no juice. Then I knew it was the stator. Replaced it....the whine went away and no more battery issue. That bike doesn't have a volt gage, so I couldn't see it wasn't charging and no idiot lights came on as a warning. The tell tale there was that whine. If it was me, I would start by replacing your battery if it is 5 years old. You're gonna need to do that soon anyway. If that fixes the problem....bravo. If you have been riding with all your electrical goodies fired up in the past, you know the bike has the ability to run them. If changing out the battery doesn't fix it.....I would run down the connection points for the grips, HID and suit jacks, making sure everything is good and tight and properly insulated. Then it's on to the voltage regulator and stator. Like I said....my stator problem on my Vulcan made the whining noise. Good luck.
 

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Put in new battery and nothing has changed except when at stop light and every thing is on the volts drop to guessing 13.6.
Dealer wants $49.95 to check it and if its bad there is a $50 deductible to pay. New regulator is $164.95 so not much savings.
I would try and check my regulator my self but dealer will still charge me to check it.
Before volts would drop to 13.8 when doing 70 mph now it hasn't done that yet.
Don't know what to do.
Does the voltage go up when the rev's go up?

The stator could be going out. Most stators are 2 stage. A low rpm and a high rpm output. Maybe the low rpm output has shorted.

Why would a shop charge to check your regulator / and / stator when it is going to lead to big dollar labor. You might try another dealer.
 
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