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Discussion Starter #1
Recently I had purchased a Stebel air horn to replace the "beep-beep" road runner sound with something a little more . . . Meaty (says the vegetarian ;) ) Since today was a rare rainy day in Austin, it was time to install.

I started off by watching Paul's video for installing an air horn. Although he installed a Wolo Bad Boy, it was similar enough and quite helpful for my installation.

I had everything wired up, even had the diode connected, had my mounting bracket in place under the fairing, and before I mounted the horn I decided to try it out.

Nothing. Nada. Zip. Zilch. Bupkiss. :mad:

I began tracing things back and finally tried the obvious. I ran a test lead from the battery and a ground to my multimeter. 12.45 volts. I then ran to the + and - on the horn. Nothing. Then re-connected the meter. 12.45 volts.

So boys and girls, the lesson to learn here is to test the damn horn FIRST, before tearing apart the fairing, cutting off the old horn connections. etc.

Guess I'll buy another Stebel from Amazon, swap out the horn, and return the old horn and new kit as defective.

Now I'm debating reverting everything back to stock, which I'll probably do, because tomorrow is supposed to be dry and in the 70's.


Time for beer,
Dan
 

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Isn't there a Harbor Freight Tool Company in Austin? They have 'em for $39 less 20% with a coupon you find in everything that's printed.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Isn't there a Harbor Freight Tool Company in Austin? They have 'em for $39 less 20% with a coupon you find in everything that's printed.
Yeah, there's a HF close by my house. Looking at their website they only carry the Wolo.

I'm gonna try to swap out my Amazon purchase with another and get a refund on the defective one. Guess I'll be hooking my stock horn back up tomorrow.

D.
 

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This is an accurate diagram. I didn't need a diode.
 

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Why would there need to be a diode? Edit: Nevermind. I watched Paul's video and understand it now. Remember the British Lucas electrics on the Brit bikes? They used a lot of diodes but for some reason had trouble. I don't think it applies to this mod but it did trigger that memory.

I run a standard car horn that's plenty loud and cost under $7. Didn't need a relay either. Plugged right in where the stock one was. I do have it located different but will change that one day.
 

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I got one from Harbor Freight and tested it first. I had the same result, dead right out of the package.

Tech23
 

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The diode prevents back emf. If you get a relay that has a diode built in, and some do, no problem. Toe jaM you don't get any turn signal lights to flicker when you turn on the horn ?
 

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I put a Stebel on my Highball years ago and bought the relay. I have NEVER had any issues with it at all! I would remove the diode. Really think that is your problem. If you don't us a powered relay then the horn will just operate very poorly but will operate. Only reason I know this was because a coworker bought a bike with the air horn already installed. He was upset that it didn't sound like mine and I looked at it and noticed that he didn't have a relay. I just happened to have one and put it on. After that all was good!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I put a Stebel on my Highball years ago and bought the relay. I have NEVER had any issues with it at all! I would remove the diode. Really think that is your problem.

Bucky, the diode is not the problem. To test I ran + from battery and a ground direct to the horn. Nothing. Hence, the horn is the problem.

D.


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The use of a diode is required if the horn causes some of the electronics to flicker or disengages the cruise control while riding. The WOLO urn is he that does generate a lt of emf and w it hour the diode it COULD introduce noise. That is what the side is for. It cramps this noise to .7v . Now if you put the diode in wrong( there IS polarity) it will not work. Like I said, some relays have diodes built in across the coil and then you don't need one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update

OK - so an update as I try to figure this out.

The horn unit itself is NOT bad. I noticed that my stock horn won't sound when just running + from battery and - from ground to it, but was working when hooked up and I press the Horn button.

So I ran the wires from my stock horn to the Stebel, bypassing the relay altogether, and "Voila" it worked.

Now I am trying to figure out why it doesn't work when the relay is involved. I hook my meter up across the wires to the battery and I get the 12.45 volts. When I hook up the horn - nothing.

What is the downside of not even wiring up the relay? It seems to be the only way to get the horn to blow.

D.
 

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Bucky, the diode is not the problem. To test I ran + from battery and a ground direct to the horn. Nothing. Hence, the horn is the problem.

D.


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Well then you have done all the troubleshooting. Are they giving you much grief on the return? I just bought the Ness Magnum a week ago and man the horn is ridiculous. Sounds like my 93 RX7. I may use the old factory horn from my Highball. It at least was a little manly! LOL

Good luck with your horn!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Grand Finale

My afternoon horn install took all weekend, but the new horn is in place and it works like a charm. It was quite confusing :crzy: but here's how things wound up:

Wiring up the relay included with the kit was a no go. So I decided to just connect up my stock horn again. Then, with nothing to lose, I tried connecting the two wires that went to my stock horn over to the Stebel and it worked!

I went inside and managed to find a wiring diagram for a 2010 XC (even tho mine is 2013) and tracked the horn circuit. It appears that there is already a relay on that circuit, although I am not an expert at reading wiring diagrams.

Anyhow, I mounted the horn, reassembled the bike, and rode her into work today. All is well afterall.

I'm still confused as to what is going on, but as long as the horn works I'll just roll with it. If something goes wrong down the road, I'll start over with tracing the circuits.

Dan
 

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Austxdan.. so you are running the horn without the relay ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16

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not good move. really. A relay should always be used for switching high current devices. Its very possible the relay was not good. one way to test they is to take the relay coil terminals, stab a couple of wires on them and touch one wire to negative and the other to positive. You should hear and feel the relay click, if it works. Just my two cents
 

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For more horn drama, I installed a pair of car horns that really shake up the cagers. They are attached to the highway bars, close to the frame and even when I tell folks I have 'em, they don't see 'em. I used clamps intended for road lights.
 

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Mine runs off a relay with no issue.

12V hot from a sub panel (relayed again from the battery - panel only hot when key on)

main ground from horn and relay tied into the sub panel (back to the battery)

relay trigger piggy-backed from horn line (both horns sound at once).
 

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the basic reason for a relay is that it lessens the load placed on the SWITCH. IF your switch was rated the same as the fuse, ie. 10 amps, then no need for a relay. The relay is used to switch a bigger load ( the power to the horn) with a smaller load( the very small load the relay coil needs). the contacts of the relay are usually rated large enough to handle the full load. So with that said, your horn may work now, but a few long blares of that horn and your switch is toast.
 
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