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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stock Air Intake 2013 model modify VERSES OIL REPORT

Hi All,
Question about the Air Intake to stock Airbox Jackpot 2013,

As below pictures, the filter is nice and big, but the side covers only the Left cover has air-intake holes in them?? this would restrict airflow as the filter is nice and big? Big enough to have BOTH side-covers with the same holes into them, and now the filter only getting "dirty" from 1 side made me think it would be a good idea to "copy" the Left cover holes.

Do you guys think it is a good idea to drill / cut / grind / exactly the same profile holes into the Right side cover??

Let me know what you think about this?

wac
 

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Hi All,
Question about the Air Intake to stock Airbox Jackpot 2013,

As below pictures, the filter is nice and big, but the side covers only the Left cover has air-intake holes in them?? this would restrict airflow as the filter is nice and big? Big enough to have BOTH side-covers with the same holes into them, and now the filter only getting "dirty" from 1 side made me think it would be a good idea to "copy" the Left cover holes.

Do you guys think it is a good idea to drill / cut / grind / exactly the same profile holes into the Right side cover??

Let me know what you think about this?

wac
YES ...Ive gone to a bigger better breathing Ness air filter now , chopped the old airbox out and yes discovered the rhs grilles had no holes behind them, if I was you Id'd make some holes and get more air in , just make sure the shrapnel don't end up inside yr airbox, maybe cut with a stanley knife copying the left holes over to the right.
If you go the big air intake like Ness S&S or LLOYDS youll find the extra air will need extra fuel to compensate and youll need to go to a PCV at best.....but just doing better to the stock airbox youd be ok I reckon
 

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Discussion Starter #3
See the end result, looks exactly the same as original...... you can not see the difference when i put the covers back, cool hey? :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I only found the high flow filters, but as my bike is still new, I was figuring I could order that on the next "batch" as the first order is already on its way, and was still reading and not sure about the next step to take on air-filters?
"on the way"
= CHROME 4 inch forward control kit
= Radius Illuminated Vertical Sidemount License Plate Bracket CHROME
= VICTORY ONLY Temperature Gage DIPSTICK
= COMPLETE BOLT KIT CHROME
= magnetic drain plug victory motorcycle
= K&n OIL FILTER VICTORY MOTORCYCLE

I did not find the L & R cover with air-intake holes yet on the websites, did you see them somewhere?, in future surly a nicer looking air-filter will be fitted? or ordering just a high flow insert as the link below, should do "ok" as the dust pollution is quite high here I need a good filtering system

http://www.lloydz.com/store/item_view.asp?estore_itemid=1000013

and a good fuel filtering system too, I just figured?

:ltr:
 

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That looks great! Kinda like drilling the hole(s) in the front of the old style air box. Everybody did that.... Even saw Lloyd do it. I have an 11 Pin with the same style airbox. Victory changed the newer airboxes, but not sure what year. The Stage 1 door will work on the left side, but won't get you any more air. It is open behind the chrome cover, but doesn't stick out as far and doesn't have the bottom holes. Same function, different look. The difference is, the chrome "cover only" that sticks on the right side of the airbox, will NOT fit the box. They changed the contour. I actually talked to Victory (now, THAT took several days and an act of God and congress), and they said the only thing you do for Stage 1 airbox is go to K&N filter. The holes in stock airbox are made large enough for Stage 1 air. I really do like the opening of the bottom of the left side though !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pheonix, please send some pictures of your air-box if it is still in original state, and do you like the high flow K&N filter? yes i read on the forums and internet that nothing need to change, just pull out the original filter and replace it with the high flow....

This makes me think? Wouldn't the high flow air filter letting more "dirt / dust" trough?? as I mentioned it is a "dusty" place here....

Holes in the front, hmmmm nice idea, hahah ok guess I did it different by following Victory design..... of 2013 thanks for liking my fiddling around

I contact USA Victory a lot and they write back all the time COZ YOU GUYS can go to your shop or neighbor and assist fixing it??? My bike is standing parked-up because I still do not have Victory Oil...... sins 20 December 2013 :crzy::crzy::crzy::crzy: anyway i bought 1 box Victory Oil in Jakarta and hopefully in my house NEXT WEEK thumb up but that will be a different tread.......
 

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My airbox on the 2011 is the same as your 2013. The holes were drilled in the front of the earlier airboxes. They weren't even close to what these look like. If you're running the stock download, you don't want the K&N filter. You'd run too lean and would get hotter motor and popping on decel. If you run a fuel controller or Stage 1 download, the K&N is the way to go. Never had an issue with not filtering as well as OEM, IMHO. Look at thier website and decide for yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You are right about this K&N filter, a lot of changes to be made for that, thanks for that info.... cheers

Better I wait for the "free exhaust" of the victory shop they will give me (no idea witch one?) and then see if I need the Lloydz timing & Fuel Gen III / ETC.. to run this exhaust AND K&N high flow AIR FILTER

Time will tell, I am never in a hurry, and the bike is running GREAT stock so actually no need to change anything ONLY i like the smaller PULLEY up front for faster acaleration, but the sound of Victory is too mellow / not that "nice" so in future need a better sound, and I love the sound of AIR INTAKE on my 4x4 so why not on my Victory???? :D
 

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See the end result, looks exactly the same as original...... you can not see the difference when i put the covers back, cool hey? :cool:
oh yeah way cool!:cool:

if yr in a dusty place I'd be sticking with the K&N filter insert in the standard airbox with your cutouts, you'll notice the front is fairly open too.
With a lot of dust you'll need to be using the K&N filter recharge kit and following the instructions to clean and reoil regularly.
Unless you can afford the Lloydz Torque Tubes cleaning the Ness like I gotwill be a total pain in the arse as it has to come off the throttle body...The other two 'blingy' LLOYDZ and S&S air filters do at least come apart without total removal but you do need to take the fuel tank off each time.
The shiny bling aint needed cos you cant see the top of them with the tank on anyway.
Someone needs to make one not shiney that comes apart for cleaning....Id buy one for ease of cleaning.
I just sold a Stage one filter and fluted chrome covers on ebay for $49.99 post incl.
Probably go for the expensive torque tubes when I can afford em and resell the Ness
 

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vic's small airbox

on my preowned 13 hammer with a tri pro pipe, with air filter + dealer tune i installed a ness filter as well, you can hear it roar suckin in lots of air, it pulls better at lo speeds as well. i do not consider the Vic "upgraded" filter is much of an upgrade!
 

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on my preowned 13 hammer with a tri pro pipe, with air filter + dealer tune i installed a ness filter as well, you can hear it roar suckin in lots of air, it pulls better at lo speeds as well. i do not consider the Vic "upgraded" filter is much of an upgrade!
stage 1 is re-usable and supposedly flows a little better, what would your EPA and our ADR's think of a Ness style filter, stock airbox is designed to kill the intake roar...the fact that it has the plastic "torque tubes" inside it must help somewhat, and wouldve gave Lloyd "food for thought" for his mod.
I agree the Ness makes the bike far more 'tractable' specially with PCV and Dyno...my plug chop proved it to be waaaay too lean without that.
Which goes to show how much more air it actually pulls in.
I think its a pity we cant have a more servicable aftermarket part without the bling, it'd have to chop a lazy hundred bucks off the price.
When all said and done there's nothing quite like rolling on the throttle from 2000rpm to 4750 and feeling and hearing it pull smoothly and strongly!....just talking about it makes me wanna ride!thumb up
 

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A lot of people won't like to here this but a K&N filter or one like it will destroy a motor by letting to much dirt through them. They are great on the drag strip but not on the street. I am an auto mechanic and have seen it many times ecspecialy on a diesel. If you do go with a K&N make sure you clean and oil it properly and often. Not trying to upset anyone just letting him know what i have seen in the past.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You can see on the first pictures the mirror holes I made on the airbox and the "roar" is much deeper, and I did not understand it but then I remembered I cut the holes left and right plastic covers, and enjoyed every minute of the ride

the Airfilter is still stock.........

whiskeydave = Are you saying it would be "bad" for the engine to install the Torque tubes? but we need more air to drive better??

Would it be a good idea to install the torque tubes and "cover" the K&N filters with "socks" so more air intake but not too much "dust" as you say???
 

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A lot of people won't like to here this but a K&N filter or one like it will destroy a motor by letting to much dirt through them. They are great on the drag strip but not on the street. I am an auto mechanic and have seen it many times ecspecialy on a diesel. If you do go with a K&N make sure you clean and oil it properly and often. Not trying to upset anyone just letting him know what i have seen in the past.

I hear a lot of people say that the dirtier a K&N gets, the better it filters.
Wouldn't "keeping it clean" defeat the purpose?
 

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A lot of people won't like to here this but a K&N filter or one like it will destroy a motor by letting to much dirt through them. They are great on the drag strip but not on the street. I am an auto mechanic and have seen it many times ecspecialy on a diesel. If you do go with a K&N make sure you clean and oil it properly and often. Not trying to upset anyone just letting him know what i have seen in the past.
Same experience here Dave.
Just hold a K&N up to the sun and look at the holes then do stock.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/air-filter-filtration-test/

They can fukk up the MAP sensors on a lot of vehicles also.cheerscheers
And their pricing is just stooped with all the Hype.
 

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I am not familer with torque tubes. If putting a sock over the filter would stop most of the fine dust that would go through the filter than it would be better than just the k&n by itself. I have heard the saying the dirtier they are the better they work, doesn't make sense to me. If you don't need to run a performance filter i would stick with stock filter. It won't ruin your motor instantly but will defintly shorten its life drasticly. I fully understand wanting to use performance parts to get more out of your bike but to me somethings are not worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Stock Air Intake 2013 model modify VERSES OIL REPORT

Hi Guys,

BIG PROBLEM, first oil change, see quoted text from Oil sample Company;

QUOTE
Dear Mr. Andre,
FYI, Please find attachment your Oil analysis report, the wear metal is acceptable but silicone contaminant look excessive than allowable limit. The silicone it may come from dust, silicone sealant and carborundum ( silicone carbide ) material in clutch disk. The TBN ( Total Base Number ) of lubricant oil has been tested twice, but unfortunately the result is still 0 ( zero ). The viscosity @40 deg C is 112.45 cst and 100 deg C is 11,22 cst, we have no PDS for comparison oil properties both TBN and Viscosity with original PDS from oil manufactur. Thanks
Regards
Jonter
UNQUOTE

So my answer is to them for feed back;

QUOTE
Dear Jonter,

Much appreciated for your Email, please assist in answering the following if possible;

1- It is a new Engine and I supposed to change Oil at 800 Km, but I did not have the proper books and Oil from America, so I changed oil at 1,568 Km with consent of the America Victory supplier. So surly the Silicon is from Clutch and Liquid sealants, etc.
2- The Dust is something to worry about, as it is still my original filter, just imagine i would purchase a "performance filter" this would only make the matter worse? I will search the internet and Email America if there is a bigger and better filter system for my bike.
3- The TBN ( Total Base Number ) I do not understand, what does this mean your reading is "0"
4- Do you need me to ask the Victory supplier to ask about "" The viscosity @40 deg C is 112.45 cst and 100 deg C is 11,22 cst, we have no PDS for comparison oil properties both TBN and Viscosity with original PDS from oil manufacture. ""

OK the next oil change supposed to be 8000 Km but I believe it it better for your company to do another Annalise at 3000 Km or 6000 Km

Let me know what you think about this?
Kind regards,
Andre
UNQUOTE
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Sorry Guys,

I can not attach the Oil sample report, the forum says;

Your file of 29.7 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 19.5 KB for this filetype.

Pity is there anybody who can change a PDF size from 29.7 to 19.5 Kb?????

So I printed it and took a picture, it says;

First sample of series, wear element iron 38 Mg/Kg and Copper 25 Mg/Kg, Silicon sealants and gasket materials, oil adhesives Viscosity @100 Celsius 11cSt. and @ 40 Celsius cSt. check for dust entry point, inspect air induction system for loose connection, damaged gasket, check engine breather connections / gasket , inspect filter, check for unusual noise, monitor operating temperature (DPN)
 

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TBN total base number

TBN are protective addatives used in motor oils, higher = longer service intervals, when they are gone the nasties in your oil can damage an engine, they keep acids + other stuff in check. i guess you were waiting for the Vic 20-40 OE oil, there are many better choices, Vic's oil is decent but most recommend earlier changes at 2500 as the addatives + polymers are destroyed in the gear box. guessing its quite hot there, if so a real group IV or V synthetic motorcycle oil in a 20-50 is best, amsoil + redline are tops IMO!
 
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