Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just spreading some helpful info on the off chance you DON'T know about these tricks yet....

Tired of setting aside one or two hours to clean your bike? Go online or go into any motorcycle shop and grab some S100. Walk past all the other crap out there that promises an easy wash, yet still leaves garbage behind you have to clean by hand.

Simply spray on bike, rinse off with a power nozzle on any regular hose, and dry. You're done. I SWEAR by this stuff. Finally got to really prove it's worth last weekend when I was forced to ride in some nassssty ass rain. Figured it would take me forever.... nope. 20 minutes including setting up and putting away bike, hose etc.

For those in Europe, it is called SDOC100.

They also make a Special Surfaces Cleaner which is absolute MAGIC on your helmet. Spray on, wipe off, and it feels like you waxed it twice.



Worried about getting swirls in your paint over time? Yes, even microfiber cloths can do this. Get an Air Force Blaster. No rag ever touches my bike for cleaning or drying. It blasts the water out of every crevice and the fins on the motor too. Then blast it off the surfaces and you're done... no water spotting. Best $90 I've spent in a while.






Now for the tough stuff... BUGS and guts. Especially tough are those love bugs. Well, I learned a great technique that works well, and works on every surface including the delicate plastics.

Get a spray bottle and fill it with hydrogen peroxide. Not kidding.

Spray it directly on the bugs and let it sit for 2-5 minutes. You'll see it fizzing up as it literally dissolves the bugs and guts. Rinse them off. Only the absolute toughest will require a LIGHT pass over with a soft sponge... absolutely no scrubbing, just a gentle wipe. Then wash the bike as needed with the S100 for the routine cleaning.

Hope this helps some folks.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
5,988 Posts
Blow Drying The Victory

I wonder if my electric leaf blower would do the job as well? Does water get into where it's not supposed to like when it's pressure washed? If not, I'm going to try my leaf blower (sure will be a funny looking scene).

toro.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,318 Posts
I wonder if my electric leaf blower would do the job as well? Does water get into where it's not supposed to like when it's pressure washed? If not, I'm going to try my leaf blower (sure will be a funny looking scene).

View attachment 2322
Been using S100 for many years. People won't believe me when I tell them I have never laid a hand on the engine or wheels. Incidentally, don't use it topside, it'll drown out your electrics due to the amount of high pressure rinsing required. S100 can be cut 1/3 with water and still be just as effective and require less rinsing. Yes, I use my electric leaf blower - works just fine. thumb up
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
91 Posts
I do not use my leaf blower as it is also a sucker and does not have a filter, so it would blow dust. I do however have a kirby vaccuum that.....blows.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,235 Posts
I use Simple Green does that same job and you can get it at walmat Target Menards Home Depo for half the price.
No fuss no muss
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I too have used an electric leaf blower, works good but the air force blaster is smaller and lighter plus the nozzle attachments make the job easier.

Simple Green is good, but not the same and not really as effective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
356 Posts
+1 on the leaf blower. I've been thinking about trying the S100 for a while. Now you have me convinced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
A couple of yrs ago I got a TurtleWax car washing kit for Xmas. Had a gallon jug of their soap in it. I've found that mixing 1 part soap & 2 parts water in a spray bottle works wonders. Spray it on, let it sit a few minutes, then hose it off. Very little touch-up needed after that.

RR
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
I have used simple green in the past but I believe it will remove the wax from paint finish. I now only use this as a degreaser. I don't think S100 will remove the wax from your finish. Please chime in if I'm incorrect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,318 Posts
I have used simple green in the past but I believe it will your remove wax from paint finish. I now only use this as a degreaser. I don't think S100 will remove the wax from your finish. Please chime in if I'm incorrect.
One would be wise to just use S100, or any spray on, rinse off cleaner, on wheels, engine and running gear only. Not that S100 injures wax or paint, but it requires a lot of high pressure rinsing that can get into the electrics. I know we've been this route before, but I have not experienced any product that works as well as S100. thumb up
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,699 Posts
I too have been using the Simple Green for many years with great success but I'm open to new ideas and I've hearing a lot about the S100 products over the past few years. They also have an S100 product that makes the black engine's look brand new again. I use Pig Spit for that but may try the S100 for comparison.

Where is the best place to buy the S100 products that's not on the Internet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Most any good cycle parts/accessories shop local to you should have S100.

I ordered mine online before I knew that. Even my local Victory dealer has it in stock thumb up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,430 Posts
After a good bike wash I like to spray the black engine with something that's not to pricey. I have used the Pigspit and S100 engine black spray. I tryed a little penetrating oil on a small spot on the engine one day. Road the bike and seen how it acted after that. I actually use some Metal protector from Amsoil that they recommend for guns,etc. I make sure the engine is clean and dry. Then I spray the complete engine down with it. This includes the exhaust pipes and I also do the frame. It actually last holds up good and does not seem to attract to much dirt. I do no live on a dirt road either. Anyway I believe the last time I bought a can of their penetrating oil/metal protector I believe it cost me around $3.50 to $4.00. You can also use it on many other metal items. Nooo I am not a dealer I just think it does a good job.thumb up
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,699 Posts
After a good bike wash I like to spray the black engine with something that's not to pricey. I have used the Pigspit and S100 engine black spray. I tryed a little penetrating oil on a small spot on the engine one day. Road the bike and seen how it acted after that. I actually use some Metal protector from Amsoil that they recommend for guns,etc. I make sure the engine is clean and dry. Then I spray the complete engine down with it. This includes the exhaust pipes and I also do the frame. It actually last holds up good and does not seem to attract to much dirt. I do no live on a dirt road either. Anyway I believe the last time I bought a can of their penetrating oil/metal protector I believe it cost me around $3.50 to $4.00. You can also use it on many other metal items. Nooo I am not a dealer I just think it does a good job.thumb up
Thanks for the tip. Did you use the Standard MP or the Heavy Duty MP? Looks like dollar for dollar the Heavy Duty MP is the better buy and, of course, heavy duty. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
201 Posts
08 kpin

I use a wet vac to dry my bike.It works awsome get the water out of every crevice,no more rags to dry bike.thumb upthumb upthumb up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
I never use water on any of my bikes and would definately never use detergents. It takes too much time to try to rinse well enough to get the bike prepped for wax. I strip my bikes down to the clearcoat, claybar them, put on 4 coats of synthetic wax, clean the chrome with mothers metal polish, then spray everything with turtle wax ice 2 or 3 times a year. I dust mop after every ride and use the turtle wax ice if needed.

The turtle wax ice is a sacricial coating; it's there to keep dirt/crud/bug guts from getting to the wax layers. It makes it really quick and easy to detail between rides because everything except really gooey bug guts comes off with the dust mop.

Every once in awhile, most often when I get wax residue on anything flat black (engine and cowling), I use bike spirits (silicone) to revive the powdercoat. I use the same stuff on the winshield to make bugs come off easier and to work like rain-x.

It takes 5 or 10 minutes before each ride and up an hour for a full strip/wax/polish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,318 Posts
Ammo,
The only time I was impressed enough with an info-mercial to buy their product was for Turtlewax's ICE products. They offered a huge kit of ICE products and applicators for a very reasonable price. I especially like the spray detailer, it produces a finish slicker than anything I have ever experienced using other products. Another item that's helpful are the real fluffy microfiber cloths. They can be found at stores that sell fluff & puff stuff for cars. I reserve the fluffy cloths for painted surfaces and the regular ones for metal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
Myself I use Lucas slick mist. Easy, quick. Works on everything. I don't wash my bikes.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,699 Posts
I use the Slick Mist on the painted and plastic surfaces (including windshield and air deflectors) two or three times a week to just keep it looking good. Every once in a while I'll throw down some McGuiars Tech Wax which is similar to Turtle Wax Ice. I'm amazed at what a great job the Slick Mist does and I'm still using the same original bottle from 8 or 9 months ago. Probably last another 2 or 3 months. Excellent value for an excellent product. I'm thinking the Turtle Wax Detailer spray is pretty much the same thing.

Moral of the story: Turtle Wax Ice = McGuiars Tech Wax and Turtle Wax Detailer = Slick Mist Speed Wax.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,699 Posts
Detailing sprays are all pretty similar. Just avoid anything with oils, petroleum by-products, or lanolin. These are in the armor-all type protectants and shouldn't be used on the exterior of any vehicle because they attract and hold dust. To a certain extent you should also watch for residue left by dust mops as they are impregnated with a parafin type product. Let them get dirty and don't use them on hot paint and they work great.

Fluffy microfiber towels and detailing sprays will make you bike look great. Bi-annual waxing with synthetic or carnuba waxes helps immensely too. Avoid cheap paste waxes and crappy towels if you want to keep they swirls away.

Basically, bikes aren't very large and don't use much product. Buy the good stuff
, it will last at least a couple of years and save you a lot of time/effort keeping your bike nice.
 
1 - 20 of 41 Posts
Top