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Discussion Starter #1
Hey,

Wondering if anyone can give me suggestions on what my bike's problem could be. I have a 2000 V92C. I noticed an oil leak which looked to be coming from the cam tensioner on the rear cylinder. Basically, the bottom 4 cooling fins at the back would get a build up of oil and eventually drip onto the bottom end casing. I replaced cam tensioner gasket, didn't help. I replaced the cam tensioner and all the associated hardware and that didn't help. I don't see any leak coming from the head gasket and I can't see how oil would work its way up 4 fins from the base gasket. It's hard to tell where the leak is as it is a slow (but steady) leak and accumulates in the cooling fins. I can post pictures later if it helps, but right now I'm thinking about taking it to the shop as I'm only a fair mechanic.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry. I did put Permatex on either side of the gasket when I replaced the cam tensioner. Are you suggesting pulling the bolts and siliconing them too? Thanks.
 

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One other thing to look for is porosity in the inner radius of the cooling fins. My first Vic had this. Thinned out and finally broke through ... just drill it smooth and put some jbweld in the hole
 

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Sorry. I did put Permatex on either side of the gasket when I replaced the cam tensioner. Are you suggesting pulling the bolts and siliconing them too? Thanks.
Yup the bottom hole goes through to an oil galley
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll try taking the bolts out and siliconing them first.

With the porosity, I suppose that would mean pulling and disassembling the engine? That's not something I would see from the outside is it?
 

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Actually the porosity problems they had were on the outside of the oil jacket... literally find the pin hole, drill it smooth, and jb it. (Of course if that's actually the case)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Cool, guess I'll need a mirror... :)

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll give it another go tomorrow night and let you know how I make out with this.
 

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One trick to finding the leak, whether its a pinhole or leaking seal is to to start by degreasing the entire area... then get yourself some arid extra dry aerosol deodorant and spray the area. When it dries it creates a white film which makes the start of the oil leak show up right away
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I like the arid suggestion, that's awesome. I had heard of using talcum powder, but that seems like it'd be hard to control coverage. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, tried to look for a pin hole, but being in the 4 lowest fins in the back of the rear cylinder, it's not easy. For now, I removed the bolts, siliconed the upper half of them, tight locked the lower half and torqued them back in. I cleaned the engine up and sprayed it with arid. My bike now smells nicer than me.

Heading out for a ride with friends tomorrow, I'm going to watch it and hopefully get a hint of the general whereabouts of the leak.
 

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Well, tried to look for a pin hole, but being in the 4 lowest fins in the back of the rear cylinder, it's not easy. For now, I removed the bolts, siliconed the upper half of them, tight locked the lower half and torqued them back in. I cleaned the engine up and sprayed it with arid. My bike now smells nicer than me.

Heading out for a ride with friends tomorrow, I'm going to watch it and hopefully get a hint of the general whereabouts of the leak.

You did not want to use lock tite. The oil in the threads will push it back, and introduce a path for the oil to get under the silicone. Clean the bolts, and put a dab of ultra black on the first 1/4" of the threads. This is all there is to it. The pours casing issue shows where the two studs run through the outside of the cam chain gallery
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So, went riding and there's still a leak. As far as I can tell, the leak is coming from the bottom of the cam tensioner; the arid really helps. I need to wait for the bike to cool before pulling the exhaust. It may just be a mater of pulling the tensioner again, cleaning really well and siliconing everything. I've never had such problem with a gasket before.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
So, still issues. I took the tensioner off, cleaned it up and siliconed everything: where the tensioner meets the engine and the full length of the bolt threads. The silicon then had 24+ hours to cure. Took it out this morning and after a 20 minute ride, there's oil again and again it looks like it's coming from the bottom of the tensioner. I have pics here for any one that's interested https://plus.google.com/photos/113169292152445196191/albums/5776654785978043217?authkey=CNqihcjOj-_SRQ.

The yellow is where it looks like it's coming from. The red is where the oil first starts showing up. I can't see any pins holes in the red areas. I used arid on the whole back of the engine and the rest was still white. I've tried using the paper gaskets, silicon, the paper gaskets with silicon, but nothing helps. Not sure what else to try. Not sure if there's anything left to try, maybe take it off again and try cleaning and siliconing again... Would love it if anyone had a suggestion. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I've cleaned the whole engine and resprayed it with Arid. Assuming that the Arid doesn't liquefy at high temperature, the oil seems to be seeping out of the corners of the engine block. No pin holes, everything is smooth. I'm going to try cleaning the engine again and not applying the Arid just to be sure, we'll see. If it's still leaking, I'm not sure what to do.
 

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Good pix.....You have a pourus casting, and it is now showing up. If you note the "ridge" in the fins as viewed from the side. Those are the stud holes for the outboard small studs. The good news is that you can get the rear valve cover off of your bike without pulling your motor. The bad news is that it is a PITA. You then use brass sealing washers under the nuts on the two studs, and they will seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Good pix.....You have a pourus casting, and it is now showing up. If you note the "ridge" in the fins as viewed from the side. Those are the stud holes for the outboard small studs. The good news is that you can get the rear valve cover off of your bike without pulling your motor. The bad news is that it is a PITA. You then use brass sealing washers under the nuts on the two studs, and they will seal.
Sorry, are talking about these (I'm actually seeing this in multiple corners of both cyclinders):

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/A97KtNzUXWL7j1LPnQkniRO1GsrSj-EJO1ETwrFqMPo?feat=directlink

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lB889lwWJ8hTUyYWEkyG0RO1GsrSj-EJO1ETwrFqMPo?feat=directlink

Additional thoughts: I get that you're suggesting that oil is getting into the chamber that houses the studs and seeping out from there. But, how likely is the leak to be the washer and not the head gasket? (I'd prefer if it was the washer) Also, could a recommended solution be to remove, clean and silicon the washer as opposed to purchasing new ones? (They're $8 a washer (x8 washers) here in Canada and if this isn't the final fix I'd rather not throw more money at it for now). If it's not reasonable to use silicon, that's fine too, I just thought I'd ask.

Thanks.
 
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