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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Thought I'd post in case anyone else hamfists their plug.

:eek: So....I did an oil change back in early June before Laconia, I didn't like the way the plug felt going back in but it seemed to seat & seal. Fast forward to earlier this week, I notice a small oily spot on the wood floor of my shed under the bike...s**t! sure enough I see oil drips coming off the drain plug. I put a little snug on it, but I knew :mad:
This is some of what came out with the plug when I pulled it yesterday morning.


This could have been a MAJOR issue, I feel I got very lucky being able to repair it without a incurring a huge expense or having to pull the engine or both. Here's what I did.
We have an M12x1.5mm drain plug....of course, there is no oversize tapping plug(I could find) in this size. So I had to buy several types that were close. This is the plug that worked:
Needa Parts Oil Drain Plug Magnetic 1/2 Inch-20 S.O., Head Size 3/4 Inch

First I depth checked, since the stock plug is short, there was plenty of clearance. M12 is .47" so its a smaller hole than 1/2" but the chisel head on this plug allowed it to get in and get started. That was the most difficult part, working from under the bike and pressuring the plug evenly. I did get it started and slowly cut a few turns, then backed it out, removed any cuttings with a Q-tip and spray lube. Once I had made new threads I noticed the new plug has a small bevel on the nut(the stock is flat) so it won't sit flush with the case. I put some pressure on the new plug when is was full in to impress the bevel in the pan. Then I took the copper washer from the stock plug. Gripped it with a needlenose and carefully opened up the ID with a roto-tool until it fit over the bezel. There's not much material to remove, so this went pretty easy and worked like a charm. Once in with the re-fitted washer I had a flush tight seal. Before refilling with fresh oil I ran some of the drained oil though(with out starting) just to flush any cuttings out.
This took about an hour and cost $12(+$20 for a new gal. of Rotella) because of all the plugs I had to buy, but it worked. I took a 260mi ride afterward and its a solid fix.
 

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oil bung should screw most of the way back in by hand.
if it doesn't never force it in with a tool or you'll end up in the above mess.
 

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oil bung should screw most of the way back in by hand.
if it doesn't never force it in with a tool or you'll end up in the above mess.
Yes, AVOID this kind of fix.
If you are screwing something in and you have to force it, stop!
You should NEVER have to force a screw or bolt....especially a drain plug which will have oil on it...

Not trying to rip on you PaiN, I know stuff happens...:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oil bung should screw most of the way back in by hand.
if it doesn't never force it in with a tool or you'll end up in the above mess.
Yes, AVOID this kind of fix.
If you are screwing something in and you have to force it, stop!
You should NEVER have to force a screw or bolt....especially a drain plug which will have oil on it...
Thanks guys, I am well aware for this as I'm sure most riders that do their own maintenance are....but unfortunately **** happens and can happen, it doesn't take much. In my case I think I put to much torque on the plug when it was in or somehow got it going off center. So now its posted should anyone else have something like this happen.
 

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I did the same thing on my old Vulcan...Drilled it out, retapped, new drain plug...Now I use a torque wrench for everything...cheap insurance...thumb up
 

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I did the same thing on my old Vulcan...Drilled it out, retapped, new drain plug...Now I use a torque wrench for everything...cheap insurance...thumb up
Not to pick on PaIN (and I've ridden with him, and I think he's a great guy, even if he may not believe that I really have a wife).

Not to come across -- I hope -- like a know-it-all, or someone who's never screwed up (see my addition to the recent dropped-bike thread, or the fact that I dropped my oil filter in the catch basin just a week or so ago, changing my oil).

But...

I'm really surprised by how many posts I've read here and over on the V-O-G about screwed up oil plugs. Or maybe it just seems that way, ya know, certain things seem to stick in your mind.

I've never claimed that my **** don't stink, but I've been changing oil and putting back drain plugs for 18 years now (I started riding late in life), on four bikes, and -- knock on wood -- never had a problem.

- I put the plug in by hand, all the way. And my hands are not that tough.

- I use a torque wrench after that, at which point it's not going to turn much. The spec for our engine's drain plug is 15 ft-lb, which isn't very much.

- I own four torque wrenches -- two Harbor Freight, and two Sears -- and try to use one that has the required spec in the middle of its range. The HF ones are cheap and on sale all the time; no, they're not precision instruments, but they still claim a 4% accuracy. And I got the Sears ones on sale, including a 1/2" one I only use for car-tire changes. We're talking maybe the cost of a big piece of chrome doo-dad, total for all four.

- I store the torque wrenches set at 0.

- If I haven't used a wrench in a while, on the first (or only) use that day, I'll sneak up on the spec value, i.e., set it about halfway, tighten, and then set it at the real value.

I'm not a slave to manuals -- the torque spec for the battery terminal bolts, for instance, is definitely too low (I checked it out once, and then dispensed with it). But much as I'd like to get manly on those oil drain bolts, I resist the temptation to show how tight I can make things; when the wrench clicks, you must quit.
 

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pAiN, that is bad, but thanks for posting, there are some repair kits out there if somebody needs them;

1. this is just toooo much money....
http://www.arizonavictory.com/catalog_product_detail.asp?cat_2302-61027_product_741462.Oil_Drain_Plug_Repair_Insert.htm

2. this price is much better ....
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/TIME-SERT-1-50-Metric-Drain-Repair/dp/B003SER3PA/ref=sr_1_19?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1410526921&sr=1-19[/ame]


3. see a nice tread about the subject
http://www.theXXX.net/threads/indian-oil-drain-plug-alert.28317/

you know to replace the 3 x with v/o/g

PaIn nice link you send for the replacement plug, good find mate
 

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ImageUploadedByMO Free1438559141.444687.jpg
left plug is a cb750 honda drain plug, right is the pos vic plug, i used the cb plug in mine after the vic plug started pulling threads, which one do you suppose i will use in my next vic
 

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- I store the torque wrenches set at 0.
Never thought about this before; I just went down and set mine to 0. Whether it's being paranoid or not, why not?
 

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Never thought about this before; I just wend down and set mine to 0. Whether it's being paranoid or not, why not?
Yeah, that's in all the instructions (and Internet searches). Keeping tension on the springs (or whatever's inside) probably results in a sort of metal "memory" that will throw off the tension.
 

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I've been changing oil plugs in bikes, cars, trucks, big trucks, lawnmowers, hell, you name it for 50 years and have never had a problem with one. Just the same I have screwed up a seized bolt or two and all you've heard here are pretty good choices. My favorite is to take punches and a chisel and tap on it. Failing that, drill it and use an "easy out" has worked very well for me. I don't know if I saw but I would run a little oil through the crankcase to clean out any shavings before I reinstalled it. Probably goes without saying. You know the saying (heard it here) sh!t happens now it's time to recover ;-)

Good luck.
 

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Long as this is here I was going to do a oil change and grabbed my number 6 allen wrench and went for it. Holy crap I almost couldn't move the drain plug. I started getting scared that it was going to break or strip out. Little more muscle and it broke loose and came right out just fine.
I learned then do not use allen wrench. Get a 6mm allen socket and use a ratchet for leverage. Did go to auto store and picked up a plug with a hex head on it
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My repair job has held since this mishap :eek: but I still get a little nervous every time I have to pull that plug.
 

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Thats why theres dealers.
Some people should stay away from the tools.
 

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Thats why theres dealers.
Some people should stay away from the tools.
But then, I have seen some horrible butchery done by dealer "techs."
 

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Yeah wasn't there a post about a
1, cracked fork-tube
2, Rear pulley bolt came loose and broke the swing-arm
3, five years old tires installed
4, clutch assembly C-clip installation wrong and came loose ..

Just a few on the top of my hat ... All by dealers

TaPaTaLk for VIC forum
 
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