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Been almost a month now since I purchased my 2013 CCT and I love this bike overall but it does some serious popping on deceleration. I've spent the last 2 days reading threads on this and I'm just more confused right now. Here's what I know about my CCT that I purchased from an Indian dealer. I found out who the previous owner was and gave him a call. I remember that he mentioned he had a stage one exhaust but prior to trading it in he put the stock mufflers back on. He did not install a timing wheel and I do not know what type of air filter is installed. The O2 sensors are connected. This bike pops more on deceleration than my Kawasaki 900 did. Some people like this, I find it very annoying. I'm really not interested in purchasing tuners but if that takes care of the problem I guess I don't have a choice. So, what do you all suggest?

I did purchase the Victory (K&N) air filter for 2 reasons 1) because I got it for 75% off 2) because I always purchase K&N filters for my vehicles because I'm cheap and the K&N is cleanable and reusable. But I have not installed this air filter yet.
Will installing this make the problem better or worse?
 

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First and easiest thing is to check your header bolts where the pipes come out of the jugs. If the bolts are a little loose or you see black soot you have a leak and that will make it pop badly. You might get away with just tightening them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
First and easiest thing is to check your header bolts where the pipes come out of the jugs. If the bolts are a little loose or you see black soot you have a leak and that will make it pop badly. You might get away with just tightening them up.
Been meaning to order Lloydz throttle ring,so maybe I'll order some new crush washers just to make sure all that is covered.
 

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1. check to see if the muffler connections are leak free. since the previous owner changed the mufflers, perhaps they aren't sealed or seated very well at the connections.

2. is there a PCV or any other tuner under the left side cover?

3. these bikes ran very lean from the factory so yes, adding more intake air with the K&N could produce a more lean condition and possibly worsen the popping.

4. regardless of what performance items may or may not be on your CCT, you'll greatly benefit from a ride out to The Vic Shop in Iowa. They'll tune your CCT to run perfect regardless of what you or the previous owner added to the bike. yes, you'll need either a PCV or an ECM reflash. The guys at The Vic Shop are simply awesome. Their number is: 515-339-4313

5. are you blipping the throttle on downshifts? if so, try not doing that and see if the popping goes away or is greatly reduced. many stock Victory's didn't respond well to blipping the throttle on downshifts. once Rylan and Gabe at The Vic Shop tune your CCT, blip away without issue.

6. congratulations on your CCT. IMHO, it's the very best motorcycle on the road. the senior management team at Polaris are IMHO, the polar opposite of anything good. i have over 50K miles on my CCT and have yet to find something it doesn't due exceptionally well.

7. i can't recommend the The Vic Shop installing a Lloyds air filter, Lloyds cams, Lloyds timing wheel, Lloyds 1/4 turn throttle ring, PCV or ECM reflash and the set of mufflers of your choice. You'll be adding about 30hp, 20 ft.lbs of torque, increase your fuel mileage by about 3 and greatly reducing the felt heat coming off the engine.

let us know what you end up doing.
 

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Minimal throttle movement between shifts = minimal popping. Try disconnecting the O2 sensors. There's a connector a few inches from each one. That will help it to run a bit richer and cooler and should also reduce the popping.
Question: At what revs do you upshift?
 

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An exhaust leak both on deceleration and between gears. will create lots of popping both on deceleration and between gears. The only thing that will fix an exhaust leak is fixing the leak.
 

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Minimal throttle movement between shifts = minimal popping. Try disconnecting the O2 sensors. There's a connector a few inches from each one. That will help it to run a bit richer and cooler and should also reduce the popping.
Question: At what revs do you upshift?
That did it for me on my 2016...disconnected the O2 sensors and stopped doing the throttle blip I have been doing for 20+ years on every other bike I have owned :ltr:

Also I shift around 3k'ish. Good luck with the bike.

Skin
 

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That did it for me on my 2016...disconnected the O2 sensors and stopped doing the throttle blip I have been doing for 20+ years on every other bike I have owned :ltr:

Also I shift around 3k'ish. Good luck with the bike.

Skin
Life begins at 3K on these things!:devil
 

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Vic has a very poor ECM thats why the popping. We all live with it.
watch this video a good 3 times so you don't brake the fuel niple when removing the gas tank. Its best if you only have a quarter tank. The green clips he talks about there is one on top and bottom

 

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I totally disagree with disconnecting the lower end of the fuel line when removing the tank. That is how I did break (not brake) my fuel nipple. I find that disconnecting it from the top is much safer for that nipple, especially when replacing the tank. That's when mine broke.
BTW, I am too cheap to replace the entire fuel pump/filter assembly at over $400 just because of a broken nipple, so I came up with a repair that made it even stronger than before. I recommend that any Vic owner place a length of steel tubing into the fuel nipple, with a friction fit, just as a preventative measure against it breaking.
 

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I totally disagree with disconnecting the lower end of the fuel line when removing the tank. That is how I did break (not brake) my fuel nipple. I find that disconnecting it from the top is much safer for that nipple, especially when replacing the tank. That's when mine broke.
BTW, I am too cheap to replace the entire fuel pump/filter assembly at over $400 just because of a broken nipple, so I came up with a repair that made it even stronger than before. I recommend that any Vic owner place a length of steel tubing into the fuel nipple, with a friction fit, just as a preventative measure against it breaking.
That wouldn't restrict the flow somewhat?
 

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That wouldn't restrict the flow somewhat?
That came from my engine builder hot rod buddy? I'm surprised. The answer would be yes if the subject was a cooling water pump, but how much fuel passes the injectors? Not very much. Its the pressure that counts, not the volume.
The tubing in question is 1/4" thin wall steel tubing that offers very little restriction.
Lesson over. Smoke em if you got em.
 

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That came from my engine builder hot rod buddy? I'm surprised. The answer would be yes if the subject was a cooling water pump, but how much fuel passes the injectors? Not very much. Its the pressure that counts, not the volume.
The tubing in question is 1/4" thin wall steel tubing that offers very little restriction.
Lesson over. Smoke em if you got em.
Valid point taken mate,
And I'll be smoking em tomorrow night weather permitting aiming for an 11.99 @110+mph
Point 4 of a second with ten more horses and cool night air is not out of the question.
Wrong thread but you brought it up Ricz

And yes when my fuel filter arrives I'll do your pre break fix.
Anyway I got a Mopar to 1200 and buff, she gonna shine!
 

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If you need more details for the "pre break fix" they are yours for the asking. Its quite simple, but there are things to know.
 

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You said that the previous owner told you that he had stage 1 pipes on, but put stock pipes on before he sold the bike.

Maybe he had only the stage 1 pipes on, but consider this:
Victory sold a Stage 1 Kit. The kit included three items.
1) Set of slip-on mufflers with less back-pressure (free flowing) and throatier sound
2) Victory High-flow air filter, which balanced the free-flowing pipes
3) Stage 1 ECU flash to compensate for the overall freer flowing input and output

Now, if the previous owner actually had the Victory Stage 1 kit, and then put the stock (restricted flow) mufflers back on, then the high-flow air filter and the Stage 1 ECU flash are still in place, but without the matching pipes. Wouldn't that make the whole fuel-air system out of of balance? Also, you then bought a Victory High-flow air filter, but you already have one installed on the bike.

This may be your problem. The solutions are still the same as previously mentioned by others. First check for exhaust leaks, just because it is a good idea. Second, take your bike to one of the few real expert tuners and commit some $ for a real tune up and improvement in the way your bike runs. I used KevinX (Southern MotorWoRx) and I am very satisfied, tens of thousands of miles later. The Vic Shop, as recommended by ChattanoogaMark, also has a very good reputation.

Remember, use one of the highly-reputed Tuner/Mechanics. I think there are four of them -- someone will help list them. They know how to make Victory bikes run fast, powerfully, and well.
 

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I did purchase the Victory (K&N) air filter for 2 reasons 1) because I got it for 75% off 2) because I always purchase K&N filters for my vehicles because I'm cheap and the K&N is cleanable and reusable. But I have not installed this air filter yet.
Will installing this make the problem better or worse?
Big problem is that those filters are not made by k&N they are a Chinese copy and not a good one. (Thank you Polaris)

Don't use K&N filter oil on it. Find a synthetic filter oil that does not swell rubber. Apparently there are some on the market.
When we used K&n oil on our Polaris Chinese knockoff filters the gaskets swelled quite a bit over the next few months causing the air to bypass the filters almost everywhere. The rubber is not petroleum resistant.


The stock filter gasket is the same as the one on the high performance filter. Save the one off the stock filter you take off in case you experience swelling from whatever brand of filter oil you end up using.
Do consider using K&N sealing grease on the air cleaner gasket where it contacts the frame. This grease is more of a wax than a grease and doesn't swell the gasket. It does insure that the filter gasket actually seals well to the frame and doesn't let dirt slip through. Examine the underside of the filter you take out carefully for dirt particles getting past the filter. If there are any get the grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Minimal throttle movement between shifts = minimal popping. Try disconnecting the O2 sensors. There's a connector a few inches from each one. That will help it to run a bit richer and cooler and should also reduce the popping.
Question: At what revs do you upshift?
Depends on the traffic, but I'll say on average I'll upshift around 2500-3000 rpm. I don't have the problem between shifts, it's only when I left off the throttle when I'm slowing down. I don't do the throttle blip, so that's not the problem either. Hopefully I'll get the chance to,look into this tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
You said that the previous owner told you that he had stage 1 pipes on, but put stock pipes on before he sold the bike.

Maybe he had only the stage 1 pipes on, but consider this:
Victory sold a Stage 1 Kit. The kit included three items.
1) Set of slip-on mufflers with less back-pressure (free flowing) and throatier sound
2) Victory High-flow air filter, which balanced the free-flowing pipes
3) Stage 1 ECU flash to compensate for the overall freer flowing input and output

Now, if the previous owner actually had the Victory Stage 1 kit, and then put the stock (restricted flow) mufflers back on, then the high-flow air filter and the Stage 1 ECU flash are still in place, but without the matching pipes. Wouldn't that make the whole fuel-air system out of of balance? Also, you then bought a Victory High-flow air filter, but you already have one installed on the bike.

This may be your problem. The solutions are still the same as previously mentioned by others. First check for exhaust leaks, just because it is a good idea. Second, take your bike to one of the few real expert tuners and commit some $ for a real tune up and improvement in the way your bike runs. I used KevinX (Southern MotorWoRx) and I am very satisfied, tens of thousands of miles later. The Vic Shop, as recommended by ChattanoogaMark, also has a very good reputation.

Remember, use one of the highly-reputed Tuner/Mechanics. I think there are four of them -- someone will help list them. They know how to make Victory bikes run fast, powerfully, and well.
I was also wondering if he had the complete Stage 1 kit, he said he had Stage 1 slip on mufflers and took them off when he traded it. I asked him if they were Tri Ovals and he didn't know what I was talking about. I'll check for exhaust leaks and I'll also check the air filter. I don't have a problem getting a tune but I don't know of any reputable people in the St. Louis area.
I'm not in a position yet to go on a long trip (more than a day) because of work and being the only one around to look after my parents (both in their 90's)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Big problem is that those filters are not made by k&N they are a Chinese copy and not a good one. (Thank you Polaris)

Don't use K&N filter oil on it. Find a synthetic filter oil that does not swell rubber. Apparently there are some on the market.
When we used K&n oil on our Polaris Chinese knockoff filters the gaskets swelled quite a bit over the next few months causing the air to bypass the filters almost everywhere. The rubber is not petroleum resistant.


The stock filter gasket is the same as the one on the high performance filter. Save the one off the stock filter you take off in case you experience swelling from whatever brand of filter oil you end up using.
Do consider using K&N sealing grease on the air cleaner gasket where it contacts the frame. This grease is more of a wax than a grease and doesn't swell the gasket. It does insure that the filter gasket actually seals well to the frame and doesn't let dirt slip through. Examine the underside of the filter you take out carefully for dirt particles getting past the filter. If there are any get the grease.
Thanks for the heads up on this filter
 

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Thanks for the heads up on this filter
One last thing to mention. Whenever you clean it check it afterwards by holding up to the light to be sure that the gauze is not failing on the tight bends.
Both of ours developed holes in the gauze where the screen folds by 2 years. In the trash they went.

We may have just gotten a bad batch, I don't doubt that one bit. You may be luckier than we were.
 
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