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Discussion Starter #1
Just got this 2011 Victory Cross Country a few weeks ago. This is my fourth bike in the last 5 years and I have got about 1,000 miles on it already. Had the 500 mile service done Monday. Just yesterday I noticed a potential problem and spent half an hour in stop-n-go traffic yesterday playing with it.

When I let the clutch out just a bit trying to use the friction zone to creep at low speed I get a surge of acceleration and then a dead spot where the engine spins without producing forward movement, then I will get another surge of power. This is not me being unsteady on the clutch and it is not drive train lash either. It feels more like the reverse of a warped brake rotor. It is related to the movement of the bike (wheel rotation) and not related to RPM (at least below 2K). If the bike is rolling faster the pulses are closer together, if the bike is moving slower they are further apart. The problem is way bad when the bike has not fully warmed up, but it is still there when it’s hot too.

On normal acceleration from a stop and shifting between gears it feels fine. I only experience it when using the “friction zone” at low speeds.

No apparent drag, brakes aren’t making any noise, clutch seems to be adjusted properly, oil is full.

Any ideas????
 

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It might be cause the clutch is just starting to brake in. I would go back to the dealer and talk it over with him.
If he hive you the BS thats the way they are ask to take a demo out and see if it does the same thing and if it doesn't ask him to explain why one doe and the other doesn't.
Go to our tech section and see if you can find something there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Belt is a tad loose. I know what drive line slack is, and this ain't it.
 

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My XR does this also when the motor is cold - surging, grab/release etc. as soon as it warms up all is well. Prob has to do with oil getting thru all the clutch plates.
This problem while warm may be a clutch needing adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, I played with it a bit more last night. Bike fully warm, sitting still on flat concrete driveway, engine at idle… I let the clutch out just a bit until the bike just starts to move forward… while slightly resisting forward movement with my legs and making sure to keep the clutch lever is perfectly still… the bike will move forward a couple of feet and then it’s like I pulled the clutch in (but I didn’t)… no more go. If I push the bike back with my legs I hit the spot where the clutch starts to engage again and I can sit there and rock against that spot as if I was working the clutch (but I’m not). If I push the bike forward a few more feet I hit the spot where the clutch engages again and the bike starts to move forward under its own power for a couple of feet and the no power again.

I repeated the same test on the trusty Kawasaki VN900 and it does not exhibit this problem at all… smooth as silk.

Sooo…. it seems like something associated with the clutch is bent or warped or something. I hate to take it to the dealer… they are like 100 miles away and all they are going to say is the bike isn’t even broken in yet.

I think I’m going to just ride the snot out of it for now… unless it gets worse.
 

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what oil did the tech use at the 500 mile service?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I assume Victory oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There is a little play, but not much.
 

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Just got this 2011 Victory Cross Country a few weeks ago. This is my fourth bike in the last 5 years and I have got about 1,000 miles on it already. Had the 500 mile service done Monday. Just yesterday I noticed a potential problem and spent half an hour in stop-n-go traffic yesterday playing with it.

When I let the clutch out just a bit trying to use the friction zone to creep at low speed I get a surge of acceleration and then a dead spot where the engine spins without producing forward movement, then I will get another surge of power. This is not me being unsteady on the clutch and it is not drive train lash either. It feels more like the reverse of a warped brake rotor. It is related to the movement of the bike (wheel rotation) and not related to RPM (at least below 2K). If the bike is rolling faster the pulses are closer together, if the bike is moving slower they are further apart. The problem is way bad when the bike has not fully warmed up, but it is still there when it’s hot too.

On normal acceleration from a stop and shifting between gears it feels fine. I only experience it when using the “friction zone” at low speeds.

No apparent drag, brakes aren’t making any noise, clutch seems to be adjusted properly, oil is full.

Any ideas????
Did you ever get this problem resolved? I am having the same issue with my brand new 2012...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you ever get this problem resolved? I am having the same issue with my brand new 2012...
Nope. Dealer swears they all do the same thing, as many on here have said. I don't like it much, but deal with it.

Anyone else convince the dealer to fix this?
 

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My 2012 Jackpot does this. My dealer said it is the torque compensator winding up and down. They were very adament that it is normal.
 

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My 2012 Jackpot does this as well but not as bad as yours (OP).

I start bike from cold.... let idle and run through fuel enrichment cycle... sits at 1050 rpm... after 1 min or so I take off idle to about 1200 for 1 min or so... then back to idle off enrich mode to about 900-950... summer here and hotish.

Helmet and jacket on, and go.... I have a small 3 point turn at home to line up with driveway....

As I slowly engage clutch to start 3 point it pulses the bike forward...revs are not much...say around 1400... and bike does...lurch, lurch, lurch... not much but you know its there you can feel it.

When I get to top of driveway... 40 metres or so its seems to be gone.... and is certainly gone by first traffic light about 2-3 miles away.

As I warm bike up I engage clutch quite a few times and then let out....try that... it may alleviate it somewhat?

IMHO You have a clutch issue far worse than it should be???

My bike has 1700miles and has done the little pulse at cold, I get, since day one.... thinking about it though.... it may be less than when new.

If a clutch plate warpage issue (and that really needs confirming to be true not supposition in a forum by me) I'd go Barnett clutch product to solve issue of a plate problem.

KevinX is the MAN!!! Maybe a PM to him if he doesnt spy this thread?

I might just add... clutch cable play for me is perfect when I can pull outer cable from socket in clutch lever... then apply pressure to lever to feel free play at lever.... and get 3mm play... the cable barrel end moves in and out 3mm.

Mags
 

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Just got this 2011 Victory Cross Country a few weeks ago. This is my fourth bike in the last 5 years and I have got about 1,000 miles on it already. Had the 500 mile service done Monday. Just yesterday I noticed a potential problem and spent half an hour in stop-n-go traffic yesterday playing with it.

When I let the clutch out just a bit trying to use the friction zone to creep at low speed I get a surge of acceleration and then a dead spot where the engine spins without producing forward movement, then I will get another surge of power. This is not me being unsteady on the clutch and it is not drive train lash either. It feels more like the reverse of a warped brake rotor. It is related to the movement of the bike (wheel rotation) and not related to RPM (at least below 2K). If the bike is rolling faster the pulses are closer together, if the bike is moving slower they are further apart. The problem is way bad when the bike has not fully warmed up, but it is still there when it’s hot too.

On normal acceleration from a stop and shifting between gears it feels fine. I only experience it when using the “friction zone” at low speeds.

No apparent drag, brakes aren’t making any noise, clutch seems to be adjusted properly, oil is full.

Any ideas????
Wow this is a weird one
I have disassembled many clutches over the years and I cant think of anything that would cause this.

AND NO they don't all do it. That really pisses me off when dealers say that....

Its not the compensator as the only purpose of that is to (Give) a bit under HIGH stress times like doing a burn out or dumping the clutch. The Torque Compensator is there to protect other parts from breaking by adding a spring loaded ramp that allows a place for damaging torque to be absorbed.

The only thing I can think off that would cause the clutch to do this would be a bad clutch basket bushing. And even that is a stretch.

When the clutch lever is pulled the pressure is taken off the friction plates and they spin free from the steel plates.

Friction plates turn with the clutch basket and as long as the motor is running they are turning. The steel plates are connected to the output shaft that turns the tranny. If the bike is in neutral all plates and some tranny gears are turning. When the bike is put in gear with the clutch pulled in the output shaft from the clutch stops abruptly and that is where the CLUNK comes from. At this point the metal plates in the clutch stop turning and there is a small amount of drag caused by the turning friction plates spinning between the stopped steel plates.

So if you think of this why would moving the bike while in gear with the clutch in the friction zone do this.

The friction zone is when the clutch is let out just enough to have the friction plates touching the metal plates in the clutch. The more you let the clutch out the more clamping pressure there is between the friction plates and the metal plates

moving the bike would cause the metal plates to move in the clutch
Maybe the output shaft has some run out. That would cause the steel plates to move in an oblong motion in the clutch.... And that would do it....

Grasping at straws !!! Maybe so

Rob
 

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Rob,

What do you think about quality control on the friction material thickness uniformity?

If a plates friction material is out of parallel beyond spec... would it give symptoms above?

I suppose it wouldnt because it still touches steels but at a reduced friction surface area... that would maybe give only slip not a pulse?

What about a warped plate? Either friction or steel?

Love to lay the plates on a small piece of 1/2 inch plate glass and run some feeler tape around them? MMMMmmmmmm!

Mags
 

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Discussion Starter #17
It's been there since day one, so it's not a bent or warped anything. It's a manufacturing defect that has almost put me on my ass more than a few times.

Last weekend... Bike fully loaded for a few days on the road, tight turn with bars at full lock, up a bank of unlevel gravel, let the clutch out very carefully, and the bike starts to ease forward, and then jumps. Spontaneously pull the clutch, but then start rolling (skittering) backwards down the bank of gravel before I could get ahold of the brake. Buddy laughing so hard he almost fell over.

Ain't it great to own a Victory?
 

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It's been there since day one, so it's not a bent or warped anything. It's a manufacturing defect that has almost put me on my ass more than a few times.

Last weekend... Bike fully loaded for a few days on the road, tight turn with bars at full lock, up a bank of unlevel gravel, let the clutch out very carefully, and the bike starts to ease forward, and then jumps. Spontaneously pull the clutch, but then start rolling (skittering) backwards down the bank of gravel before I could get ahold of the brake. Buddy laughing so hard he almost fell over.

Ain't it great to own a Victory?
I'd prefer to save such laughter for the comedy club, but hey, you gotta get where ya can.

I've never noticed this on mine from a standstill, but I have noticed the surging clutch at low speeds. It seems to me this usually happens at lower rpm if I brake and lower the rpm quickly by staying in a taller gear. Like it gives itself gas. Then I'll pull in the clutch and freewheel for a second, let it back out and it will be okay.

Problem is that that normally happens in a corner where it royally screws up the fun. Fortunately, it happens pretty infrequently, and it seems to be random. Cold, hot, old oil, new oil, cloudy or clear seems to make no difference to that little demon when he sets his mind to mischief.
 

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My 2011 Vision with 31,000 still does this when cold. Not so much when warmed up. I'm used to it. I just use a few more RPM and feather clutch with rear brake pedal. I think it has something to do with the newer transmission and neutral finder.
 

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Truthfully the surging sounds like it could be fueling related. It reminds me of the first Vegas model and the issues it had with low speed cornering and light throttle. It actually has nothing to do with the clutch at all. Just appears that way because you are focused on that action. There is no way to easily check this without doing a stage download or adding a fuel controller, but that is my take on the issue.

BeoBob I know it does not accurately reflect you long explanation of the friction zone engagement and loss of forward momentum. It is because I have to ask a question. When you are using the friction zone technique described are you also using throttle input? If so then this would apply to your situation to explain loss of movement and the surge. All modern motorcycles have some issue with throttle blipping or small throttle openings from the factory due to EPA restrictions and how OEMs choose to meet the standard. They cut fuel on throttle closing, which if you are trying to do as described would happen as you roll off an don in the friction zone. Anyway hard to describe completely here.
 
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