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Discussion Starter #1
Tomorrow I am planning to remove the gas tank for the first time on my XCT. I have read many horror stories of how the flimsy plastic nipple on the bottom of the tank can be broken during this process. I have alread about a homemade fix if this happens which is hella-cool given the high cost and long wait time to get a replacement nipple assembly from Victory.

So what is the best way to avoid damaging this nipple during tank removal? I have taken tanks off many VTX1300 bikes and off of my HD Softail so I am comfortable handling the weight and bulkiness. I understand how bike gas tanks have a bolt near the seat and slide onto "pins" in the front.

What are the tips and tricks to remove and reinstall the tank without breaking the delicate nipple.

How many times can I say "nipple" in one post :)

G'day,

Vinish
 

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I follow the manual and have had no trouble. I know some will say to remove the other end of the fuel line at the throttle body and cut the zip tie (under the throttle side cheese wedge). I don't want to risk the line getting rubbed/scraped so I won't do it that way.
It takes a lot of pressure to squeeze the tabs on the fuel line, so I prop the tank up with a scrap 2x4. It gives me enough room to work (big hands). I lay a rag under the line, and squeeze like hell. No problem...
The install is where you have to be extra careful. Get the front of the tank into the alignment posts in the front (KEEPING the tank angled to not drag the nipple along the frame) and get the handy 2x4 out again to give you room to work. FIRMLY push the nipple on till it clicks (remember how hard it was to pull off). Pull out board, and button it up. Done
 

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I have found the safest way to avoid breaking that nipple is to NOT disconnect the fuel hose from the lower end. Lift the tank enough to reach under and release the fuel hose from the nipple. When replacing the tank, reverse the process.
When your tank is removed, I suggest to one and all to reinforce the nipple with an appropriate length of 1/4" steel tubing. With a probe (like a small crochet hook) determine the length of the hole (and no more), cut the tubing to that length and drill an interference fit hole. Bevel one end of the tubing and gently tap it into the hole flush with the end. Now the nipple is stronger than ever before.
 

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Be sure to stuff the hole under the seat in the frame with a rag or tape over it with masking tape so that the little nubbed rubber washers from the rear tank bolts can't run away down that hole and hide from you. If you get them off successfully without loosing them your almost sure to have one run away while trying to get the tank back in place.
It's really frustrating when you loose them.

I try to keep a spare one on hand now. Seems to discourage the ones on the bike from escaping. I've spent more time looking for the washer than fixing whatever I was working on under the tank sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Be sure to stuff the hole under the seat in the frame with a rag or tape over it with masking tape so that the little nubbed rubber washers from the rear tank bolts can't run away down that hole and hide from you. If you get them off successfully without loosing them your almost sure to have one run away while trying to get the tank back in place.
It's really frustrating when you loose them.

I try to keep a spare one on hand now. Seems to discourage the ones on the bike from escaping. I've spent more time looking for the washer than fixing whatever I was working on under the tank sometimes.
What are you, a complete woose? All you do is turn the bike upside down and shake it to get those parts back out of the hole :)

Thanks for the advice, folks. Keep it coming.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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Someone posted that they glued those rubber spacers so they stay in place.
 

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Be sure to stuff the hole under the seat in the frame with a rag or tape over it with masking tape so that the little nubbed rubber washers from the rear tank bolts can't run away down that hole and hide from you. If you get them off successfully without loosing them your almost sure to have one run away while trying to get the tank back in place.
It's really frustrating when you loose them.

I try to keep a spare one on hand now. Seems to discourage the ones on the bike from escaping. I've spent more time looking for the washer than fixing whatever I was working on under the tank sometimes.
.. LOL, been there done that!:laugh
 

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When putting the line back on just be sure to hear the "click". Don't think it is secure because you feel you pushed it on all the way. Two days later you may find your bike shutting down when the line slips off and you are stuck on the side of the highway at 3 in the morning. Pulling the tank in the pitch dark with trailer trucks flying by is no fun. True story (never mind that the rear wheel locks when the motor shuts down)
 

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I use skinny, little zip ties to keep the inner washers secured while I replace the tank, then snip them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I took the tank off a couple hours ago and can't really understand how the nipple gets broken. I removed the fuel hose from the tank nipple. The nipple is never really near anything if you simple lift the back end of the tank a little like the service manual says to do. Maybe it is during the reinstallation of the tank that the problems occur.

This morning I put on the Lloyds ATS at +5, the 1/4 turn throttle ring, and the Lloyds air filter. Next is to load a temp map into the PC-V and then install it. Then get the wheels with new rubber back from the shop tomorrow and install the wheels Tuesday night after work (busy Monday night). Lastly, in the next couple of weeks to arrange to get the bike to KevinX for a Dynatune. After that, I will be just riding for a while.

Oh, one interesting thing. I bought the bike used and it must have sat outside in Arkansas where I bought it. However, there was zero rust or other corrosion so maybe it was in a shed. In any case, when I washed it for the first time right after buying it and riding it home to Florida, I discovered a good size mud-dauber wasp next deep in the wheel well under the seat. No big deal. I cleaned it out. Today, when taking off the tank and old filter, I discovered that the filter was filthy and there were 3-4 more good size mud-dauber wasp nests inside the frame in the air filter area. All were, of course, on the intake side of the filter not the engine side. They were even up around the steering stem. I got these all cleaned out but they were a mess.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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I took the tank off a couple hours ago and can't really understand how the nipple gets broken. I removed the fuel hose from the tank nipple. /QUOTE]


That's why. You removed the hose from the nipple. Had you only removed it from the lower end, you'd have risked it breaking.
 

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I took the tank off a couple hours ago and can't really understand how the nipple gets broken. I removed the fuel hose from the tank nipple. The nipple is never really near anything if you simple lift the back end of the tank a little like the service manual says to do. Maybe it is during the reinstallation of the tank that the problems occur.
Vinish
It may be some are impatient or not getting the connector to click, or unaware that it does, and try to force it off by twisting and wiggleing sideways. Never had a problem myself getting it off. Getting it to click going back on can be a little tricky...Patience is mandatory as I stated in another reply. Just make sure you get it to click!!:wink
 

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..Let us know what you think of the timing wheel mod and if it gives as much power gain as advertised. I am considering adding one to my bike.:smile
 

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Discussion Starter #17
..Let us know what you think of the timing wheel mod and if it gives as much power gain as advertised. I am considering adding one to my bike.:smile
Will do.

I just finished all the installs except the wheels with the new tires which I will pick up tomorrow and install Tuesday night. I put on the ATS +5 which was an easy install but did require loosening right side front foot bed support bolt and taking out the back bolt so foot bed could pivot to gain access to the bottom bolt on the ATS wheel cover.

The 1/4 turn throttle ring was pretty easy. I won't know if I have the touchy throttle/idle cable adjusters right until I get it back on the road.

The PC-V was a bit tricky. Attaching the new connectors to the bikes injectors was tough but I managed. I think they are attached all the way.

Upon reinstallation of the tank, I retract my earlier statment about how I could not see how anyone could break the nipple. It was quite tricky to get the connector to click into place and I was wiggling and twisting the connector. Can anyone say if you have to depress the two buttons on the quick connect when reattaching the nipple? I know you have to press them to remove the connector but don't know if you press them or not during reattachment to the nipple.

I wish I had the wheels on to go ride it but I don't so no report until Tuesday or Wednesday.,

G'day

Vinish
 

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..Let us know what you think of the timing wheel mod and if it gives as much power gain as advertised. I am considering adding one to my bike.:smile
I would think after all the posts (easily 100s at this point) you would know it works as advertised. What my mufflers did for the upper RPM's the timing wheel did for the lower RPM's.
 

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I use Goop and glued them on. No worries now.
Thanks for that. I tried a different glue and it failed. I've used goop for a lot of things but didn't think of using it for that but will now.
 

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WD makes some extremely helpful vids!!! Thank You very much.
 
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