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Thanks to PhilC64 install instuctions for Lloyds HOH-VM1-DR Cams, which were Awesome !!! I was able to down load his instructions, and show them to my Dealer here in Corpus Christi, TX. Before I showed them the instructions on how to install Lloydz Cams, they would not do it with out removing the engine as by the book. After going over with them PhilC64 instructions, they seemed confident to install cams as per his instructions.
Well now the Cams are in, and I took my cross Country on a 450 mile spin last week end, the bike runs great!!! I like to give credit to where credit is do. So Thank You, PhilC64, for the time you took to create these instructions for the Lloydz Cam Install. If anybody else is considering these Drop in Cams from Lloydz, and their Dealer won't install them with out removing the engine, down load Phils instructions on a Flash, or email them to their service Dept,and talk it over with them.
Hope this helps anybody considering this modification.cheers
 

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A link to the instruction or a posting of the instructions would be nice for others who might do this at home
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)

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Help

Can i use this download to swap cams in my 2010 vegas 8 ball?:confused:
 

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Same motor so it will be the same...on the motor side of it...your biggest issue will be finding a way to get enough clearance to get the valve covers and cams out.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Thanks for the compliments folks! The write up I did was basically for the X-bikes. The steel frame bikes are a bit more difficult since frame clearance can be a major issue. It can be done but you'd need to consult with LLoyd, Kevin or Rylan to get it done inside the steel frame. The cam install inside the engine is the same but getting access to the valve covers and the cams is the problem point.
 

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Thanks to PhilC64 install instuctions for Lloyds HOH-VM1-DR Cams, which were Awesome !!! I was able to down load his instructions, and show them to my Dealer here in Corpus Christi, TX. Before I showed them the instructions on how to install Lloydz Cams, they would not do it with out removing the engine as by the book. After going over with them PhilC64 instructions, they seemed confident to install cams as per his instructions.
Well now the Cams are in, and I took my cross Country on a 450 mile spin last week end, the bike runs great!!! I like to give credit to where credit is do. So Thank You, PhilC64, for the time you took to create these instructions for the Lloydz Cam Install. If anybody else is considering these Drop in Cams from Lloydz, and their Dealer won't install them with out removing the engine, down load Phils instructions on a Flash, or email them to their service Dept,and talk it over with them.
Hope this helps anybody considering this modification.cheers
Cool, what did your dealer charge to do them and how has your powerband changed??
 

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Cool, what did your dealer charge to do them and how has your powerband changed??
Got my Cams done by Dealer for $265.00 labor once I gave him PhilC64 instructions on Cam install with out eingine removed. Before I gave them the instructions, I was quoted about $700. Charged me for 3.5 hours labor at a prefered customer rate which is about 5-10% discount. Havent done a dyno on it yet, but there are some post of people with their dyno charts, if you would like to do a search on them on this sight. Plus there is a generic dyno chart on Lloydz Performance sight of the 106 stock, and after cams, and exhaust mod. I can't speak for everyone, but I noticed the most improvement at around 3500 rpm to 5000+. Engine never got wheezy and wanted to keep on going hard and fast all the way through, even at 5000rpm. I believe thats why Lloydz suggest getting the ECS remaped to up the Rev Limiter to around 6000+ to get everything out of the Cams. Some others have noticed a pickup at lower RPMs starting around 2500 RPM. But I have alot of ass to move at 6'4", 280lbs and may need the higher end to get a sence that things are realy moving.:D
 

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How would the procedure vary for my 08 100ci Hammer?
 

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Got my Cams done by Dealer for $265.00 labor once I gave him PhilC64 instructions on Cam install with out eingine removed. Before I gave them the instructions, I was quoted about $700. Charged me for 3.5 hours labor at a prefered customer rate which is about 5-10% discount. Havent done a dyno on it yet, but there are some post of people with their dyno charts, if you would like to do a search on them on this sight. Plus there is a generic dyno chart on Lloydz Performance sight of the 106 stock, and after cams, and exhaust mod. I can't speak for everyone, but I noticed the most improvement at around 3500 rpm to 5000+. Engine never got wheezy and wanted to keep on going hard and fast all the way through, even at 5000rpm. I believe thats why Lloydz suggest getting the ECS remaped to up the Rev Limiter to around 6000+ to get everything out of the Cams. Some others have noticed a pickup at lower RPMs starting around 2500 RPM. But I have alot of ass to move at 6'4", 280lbs and may need the higher end to get a sence that things are realy moving.:D
Thanks, have you thought about adding Lloydz timing gear for more low end grunt? ;-)
 

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Thanks, have you thought about adding Lloydz timing gear for more low end grunt? ;-)
Haven't decided on the Timing Gear yet, but I am going to get the new High Flow Air Filter. Some say their is a noticeable difference in the lower RPM range with it.
 

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I just threw a set of VM1 drop in cams in, wow is all I can say! With a lloyzds air filter, T wheel and PCV the power is amazing!! The job took me about 5 hours and a few skinned knuckles. Thanks to the great guys on this site for the instructions!
 

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PhilC64 Cam Install Guide for 2010 Cross Roads

Does any one have a active link or a PDF file for the Victory Cam install that was created by PhilC64. I found one link on the forum but it's no longer active.
 

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I used Phil's and then did some editing to it in hopes of making it more clear. It's too large to post here. If you PM your email address to me I can send it to you. Or you can find it on the "other" Vic site along with a lot of good info under a thread with the title "More cam questions". If you are not familiar with the "other" Vic site send me a PM.
 

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If you somehow missed my "Its cam time" thread here's a link to video instructions. With a few minor adjustments this is pretty much the procedure me and @broggyr are going to use to install cams this Sunday(now known as Camday....officially ;) )

 
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I used Phil's and then did some editing to it in hopes of making it more clear. It's too large to post here. If you PM your email address to me I can send it to you. Or you can find it on the "other" Vic site along with a lot of good info under a thread with the title "More cam questions". If you are not familiar with the "other" Vic site send me a PM.
Some great info on that other site, I just read through the "more cam questions" for more enlightenment as to what's already been done to mine.
I have the HOH.. 495" cams in my Vegas and all that clearance had to be done, the engineer shop did all the clearancing after I gave them the videos.
Still gaining power on mine as my pipes were holding the power back, as was the 'average' tune I'd got.
What feels ok in the street becomes a lot more critical racing on a dragstrip.
If somethings not perfect it will show up there!

So my cam realisation is coming on gradual not instant, same with the big bore which happened at the same time, but hey its getting there.
Not having first hand access to guys like kevinx, who has been a huge help in nutting out the finer points of my build over the phone and email.
Not having quick access to the parts. And having a local machine shop do all the rebore, fitting sleeves, clearancing and assembly, all took time.
Too much time in my opinion.
Taught me some patience. That's for sure!
You guys are fortunate over there when it comes to serious engine work.
Slowly slowly my Vegas 109 is coming up to speed.
 
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Contributions to PhilC's instructions

I just completed the installation of Lloydz cams, air filter, timing wheel and PC5 to my cousin's 2014 Cross Country. I used PhilC64's instructions and they were all that was required. I did check a couple of vids on YouTube, but they really offered nothing additional to what Phil included in his.

That said, I'd like to made a few comments/contributions to Phil's excellent instruction for the next guy who does a Cross Country

Raising the front frame backbone - If your bike has crash bars, REMOVE THEM. They will interfere with the frame hinging at the front engine mount. The instruction said you could probably do the job without removing them. Yes and no. the bars get in the way of removing the front valve cover screws. We removed the bars on the bike after raising the frame. The result was when the lower bolt was removed, the bars sprung back, because raising the frame twists the bars. So, just remove them before you start. I will make lifting the frame much easier. It also will give you more room to remove the hex head screws in the valve cover.

Removing the cam retention pins
- The two pins, one in each cam carrier, that holds the cams axially in the carrier is to be removed with a magnet. These are 1/4 inch pins or perhaps a metric size of 6mm, I did not measure them. They are about 1-1/2 inches long. The top of the pin is not flat, it is radiused. That means you only get point contact with any kind of magnet. And you can forget finding a magnet small enough in a auto parts store to slide down that 6mm hole. A couple of tricks will make this easier. First, using carb cleaner or brake kleen, spray down the pin hole and let it sit. Then holding a rag over the hole, blow it out with compressed air. Do this a number of times. Idea is to remove the motor oil that does two things. First is creates an air seal so a vacuum is created as the pin is extracted, making it harder to pull. And it also is pretty thick oil so it creates some drag.

The secret to the magnet for pulling the pins is making one. You need a piece of carbon steel rod about 2 inches long and one or more rare earth magnets that are small. Mine were about 1/4" thick and 1/2" in diameter. They came from tiny speakers. I save everything like this. If you have one large one, that may be enough. I stacked two together and then just put them on the side of the rod. It will make the rod a strong magnet and it will pull out the pins. You will not get the pins out with a wimpy magnet.

Rotating the crankshaft - When rotating the crank with the cam sprockets removed, it is imperative that you keep tension on the cam chains. If there is any slack, the chain can double up on the drive sprocket and jam. Only way to undo that is to turn the crank CCW. You could do damage if you were turning with a big wrench and put force on it when it stopped. I had my cousin as a helper and he would keep the chains pulled up tight, while I watch the rockers move in the process of finding TDC for each jug.

Removing and Installing the cams into the carriers - The fit between the carrier and the cam is precision. If you let the cam cock on the way out, it could jam. If you let it cock when installing the new cam, it can jam. Secret is to rotate the cam as you install it and have two hands on it so you can control the position of the cam relative to the carrier. As you will find, the cam is a big, heavy piece of steel and it is easy for it to droop in you hands as you insert or remove it from the carrier. If it gets stuck, don't panic. You can carefully move the opposite end, visible thru the carrier on the left side of the bike. Or, try to turn it while moving it back where it came from. NEVER try to force it in any direction. Finesse is the secret here. Just remember to strongly support the cam with your hands by holding the flange and turn it as you move it in or out and you should be fine.

Tools- In addition to the tools Phil lists, there are others that are required or at the very least, makes life easier.
1. Long, 3/8 drive metric hex socket allen keys with ball ends - Harbor Freight
2. Big adjustable wrench if you do not have an open end wrench to fit the cam tensioner caps. I hate using adjustable wrenches, but was forced to for these two caps.
3. Crank turning tool - Phil says to use a 1-1/16 socket. I guess the idea is the socket will engage the key for the timing wheel. Well on this Victory, that socket was too big. A 1 inch was too small. None of the metric sockets I had in that range would work either. So, I simply used a long 8mm bolt and a deep socket as a spacer, so the wrench was away from obstacles. Thread it into the timing wheel bolt hole in the crank and turn the crank with a ratchet and 13mm socket.This will only turn the crank CW which is required for the process. But if you need to go CCW, you remove the bolt and socket, put the timing wheel back on and put a long 6mm bolt in one of the timing cover bolt holes and lever on the timing wheel teeth with a screwdriver.

Typo in the OEM Manual - On page 7.24, Line 14, it says, "Rear camshaft double marks are now at the top. Install cam sprocket finger tight." It should say, "Install cam sprocket bolt finger tight."

That's about it, or at least all I remember from the installation done yesterday.

Thanks again to PhilC64 for creating and sharing these instructions. It certainly made my life easier.

Best regards,
Rob
 

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I just threw a set of VM1 drop in cams in, wow is all I can say! With a lloyzds air filter, T wheel and PCV the power is amazing!! The job took me about 5 hours and a few skinned knuckles. Thanks to the great guys on this site for the instructions!
who did the dyno tune on the bike
 

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No dyno yet. Danny at Lloydz sent a map to me based on how the engine is configured. I loaded that into the PC5.

My cousin has an appointment at Lloydz to put it on the dyno on Nov 14th. I'm going with him. I'll be curious to see how it dynos with the map I loaded today.

He's taking it for a long ride tomorrow. So, I'll get a report on his seat of the pants evaluation of the improvement.

I'm wishing I had put the old cams and the new cams on centers and measured the lift and duration. There was no mistaking that the new cams had a lot more duration.

Oops, sorry. Just realized you were not asking me.

regards,
Rob
 
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