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Discussion Starter #1
Ok....
Before stall:
Lloydz intake
Lloydz timing wheel *2
PCV
Modified exhaust


Stalls now:
Lloydz intake
Lloydz timing wheel *4
PCV w/ Autotune
-Lloydz VM-DR1 cams
Modified exhaust


Notes:
-breaker changed, no effect
-Lloydz adjustable air idle valve, on or off.... no effect
-all terminals tight
-PCV and AT grounded to aluminum frame. Tried multiple grouding points, no effect
-tried switching breakers in fuse box... no effect
-changed plugs three times.... no effect
-AT set an AFR for idle, only let the bike idle, adjusted trims.... no effect (AFR at 13.6 for idle at sealevel somewhat cold weather 50*)
-PCV powered by external source (not through harness)... no effect
-AT unplugged.... no effect
-all vacuum lines, throttle body boot checked..... no leaks
-PCV completely removed and checked for bad connectors, grounded wire etc. None present

Odd things the bike does......
-sometimes it will idle high... like about 1400 rpms..... sometimes it idles low like 900-950 rpms (this is with no adjustable valve)
-sometimes you can "power through" the stall by accelerating. Most of the time about 90% it just stalls with no indication so you can;t power through it
-at idle the bike averages about 3 minutes give or take before stall at idle. But sometimes I can ride the bike 5-10-15+ minutes before stall. Sometimes the bike stalls right after you start it, like leaving a parking lot.
-when the bike stalls, you cannot restart it without turning the key off for four or five seconds, then restarts as normal. Checked spark without cycling key and has spark after stall

So..... I'm running out of ideas.........
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update:

Just made another video of it. When it stalls, you can turn the ignition switch (on the right hand controls) off for a few seconds then it starts. Doesn't have to be the key.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Sounds like a fuel issue-possibly unrelated to any of your mods.
I usually start checking the simple stuff: fuel pump pressure, plugged fuel filter?I don't know if X's have a tank vent line could be pinched.
 

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Sounds like a fuel issue-possibly unrelated to any of your mods.
I usually start checking the simple stuff: fuel pump pressure, plugged fuel filter?I don't know if X's have a tank vent line could be pinched.


Yep. It has fuel pickup written all over it. When you turn the kill switch on and off, you are priming the injectors and it starts. That makes me think it stops because of a lack of fuel------for whatever reason.
 

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A pinch gas tank vent line will have you chasing all over the place. Certain things like riding at high rpms and cutting out will occure. I would take the tank back off and check all the fuel and electrical connetions
 

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2013. Still under warranty? Quit farting around and make the dealer fix it.
 

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2013. Still under warranty? Quit farting around and make the dealer fix it.
If the dealer is a great guy and will cover it yeah...if it ends up being a fuel related problem you know Ma Vic and a shady dealer is gonna void that warranty quicker than you can blink with all those mods. Unhook the Tps on the side of the throttle body....plug it back in. Cycle the bike on and off but do not start the bike. Next unhook the wire harness to the IAC behind the wedge. Leave off for about a minute and then plug back in and cycle again but don't start. Try this IAC reset three times. Next start the bike and check what the pc5 software is saying under all your calibration settings. If it is doing it at idle then check the pc5 software to make sure you aren't needing to reset the tps baseline in the software. Takes two mins. By calibration it isn't the fuel cells its under the actual calibration option used to set up the pc5. If you can take out the Lloydz idle valve when doing the resets and all that then throw it back in at the very end after you have checked all the pc5 settings.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Checked both vent lines and clear/not pinched. Ran the bike with the gas cap open. No change. Still stalls.

When its cold, first startup, it will idle about 5-6 minutes. After it stalls the first time it will idle about 3-4 minutes.

Its definitely fuel related. Say youre on the interstate going 85mp. When it stalls, you can hear the intake noise from the throttle being open. You can let the clutch out to try to "push start" and it won't start. It will only start after you hit the ignition switch off/cycle the key. Then it starts as normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well.................

I got so mad again I used the process of elimination again.

Since the cam install the bike started stalling. What did I install with the cams? Cams..... new plugs...... Autotune...... new PCV map......

Well its not the cams or all my valves would be bent to death.

Not the plugs since I'm on my third set.

Not the Autotune because even unplugged it stalled.

So........ the map

I put a zero map in there. Showed an AFR of 12 +/- at idle. Bike idled for ten minutes before ----> I <----- shut it off. Yes, it stopped by my command not it's own doing. Guess I was having a lean stall from the map regardless of it showing a 13.6 +/- AFR. Still Haven't ridden it but I'm doing to and see what happens.

Still doesn't explain it stalling at speed........ but it's never idled that long before. One step at a time.....
 

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Discussion Starter #14

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Discussion Starter #16
I doubt it's the filter. Why would it stall every three or so minutes religiously, then when I switch maps it idles for ten minutes (before I should it off)?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well... a little at this point......

The title of the video is "20140305 Victory HB stalling issue" so it should be easy to search for on youtube.
 

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Well... a little at this point......

The title of the video is "20140305 Victory HB stalling issue" so it should be easy to search for on youtube.
YouTube: "No results for 20140305 Victory HB stalling issue."

Calling the local loony bin for you. :D

I doubt it's the filter. Why would it stall every three or so minutes religiously, then when I switch maps it idles for ten minutes (before I should it off)?
That's how long it takes for the fuel pressure to drop below what the engine wants and needs. Imagine you're sucking juice through a straw, but your straw is bent (or partly clogged). You suck harder and harder, but eventually you have to suck too hard, and you give up.

Maybe when you switch the map, you're going to a leaner one, which requires less fuel, so it takes longer to reach the starvation point.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)

Its the first video I ever uploaded to Youtube so maybe I'm doing something wrong.... or I am literally going crazy. I really feel like it could be either.

I don't think it's the filter. Because the map it had in it when it was stalling had all negatives in the idle category.

The zero map has zero's so its actually richer and using more fuel.

Also it didn't matter if you were on the interstate going 85mph and 3200 rpms or idling. ...... about three minutes.....
 

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5N-zbaFm5E

Its the first video I ever uploaded to Youtube so maybe I'm doing something wrong.... or I am literally going crazy. I really feel like it could be either.
Hehe. Your video's set as private, so only you can see it.

I don't think it's the filter. Because the map it had in it when it was stalling had all negatives in the idle category.

The zero map has zero's so its actually richer and using more fuel.

Also it didn't matter if you were on the interstate going 85mph and 3200 rpms or idling. ...... about three minutes.....
Yeah, but you said when you disconnect the PCV it still stalls. So where do you think your map comes into the equation then?
 
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