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Discussion Starter #1
I recently installed a 1/4 turn throttle ring. I have never worked on the throttle before so it is all new to me. When I was installing the front cable onto the throttle (closest to the driver) I just pulled it and attached it. Isn't there supposed to be some kind of spring action to this cable retracting it? My bike is an 2006 and if I am not mistaken by the manual the Throttle springs are under the tank and I think I have to remove it. Well the tank is full (winter storage) and from what I can imagine would be awkwardly heavy to remove. Is this correct? I am a bit afraid of removing the tank as I thought I read there is a plastic tube under it that can break easy. Also if you pull the tank how do I cap it off so the gas doesn't spill out? I really appreciate any and all help. thumb up
 

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Its a brave man who attempts removing a full tank.
Extra weight as well as the danger of breaking fuel nipple means I'd be leaving well alone.
Is your throttle not working properly now or what?
My understanding is you can back off the throttle adjusment wheels at the grip end enough to install the 1/4 throttle ring.
Not that I've installed one but I have had my tank on and off a few times and its easier close to empty.
 

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syphon the gas out and pull the tank
 

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Disconnect the fuel line from the tank, not behind the right cheese wedge. Lift the back of the tank and you'll see the quick connector. Less chance of breaking the nipple on the bottom of the tank.
 

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Was the throttle snapping back before the 1/4 ring ?

Is the throttle NOT snapping back after the install of 1/4 ring ??

If so, don't look at the springs YET, look at the throttle ring rubbing against something at your handlebar ...

Just an suggestion ?
 

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Yes I wouldnt be removing tank unless you really have to.
What exactly is the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Was the throttle snapping back before the 1/4 ring ?

Is the throttle NOT snapping back after the install of 1/4 ring ??

If so, don't look at the springs YET, look at the throttle ring rubbing against something at your handlebar ...

Just an suggestion ?
It snaps back fine this is not the issue. The problem is the cable closest to the driver. You pull the one furthest away from you and it pulls itself back down. You pull the front and all the slack just sits there. It does this with the ring on or off. I am thinking the cable is broken. Thank you all for your support.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Sounds likely! You got to be careful when you're fooling around with them which is why I will not attempt installing a 1/4 turn. I have a tendency to screw up a free lunch. :frown
LMAO Dill. It sounds like we may be twins. If I snapped the cable by pulling it like I did then it was ready to go. I can't imagine I pulled any harder than the roll of the throttle. From what I remember It never slipped back from the beginning. I must admit though I am hesitant to do this I am also quite excite to learn more about my bike.
 

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I hate working on my vegas but I can do it because the alternative is paying lots of $$ for someone else to do it. I am a freaking expert at removing the tank because like you, I wanted to learn. Well! I learned the hard way with some of my tank removal mistakes. Suffice it to say, it is really not that big a deal but I do always make sure it is as empty as I can get it.

Good luck on getting throttle problem resolved but be advised, a mans' got to know his limits... :laugh
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I am a freaking expert at removing the tank because like you, I wanted to learn. Well! I learned the hard way with some of my tank removal mistakes. Suffice it to say, it is really not that big a deal but I do always make sure it is as empty as I can get it.
What were your mistakes? I am mostly afraid of the nipple under there and maybe hitting the tank when I remove it. If I dent or scratch it I'l puke. I also plan on getting all the gas I can out of the tank.
 

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I think you can reach all the cables by removing the wedge & bracket & inner workings etc, then you can pull both ends of the 1 cable and see if it is broken ??
 

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I had assumed fuel hose connection from/to the tank had loosened over a period of time because it was leaking near the nipple. I removed screw at the seat front, lifted and tightened output nipple area directly under tank. Cranked it, seemed fine, and rode a block to discover it was leaking like crazy. I had no choice and had to completely remove tank on the spot to discover that hose was worn and split.

I left my bike where it was, walked home, went to local parts with the hose. Parts guy got a similar hose and measured it. Granted our hoses are custom made so I had to make it fit when replacing it. Bike would not crank. Great! Removed tank to discover hose was pinched. Fixed and cranked and went home with tail between my legs. Why does this crap always happen? :frown

Later, I removed tank again to clean throttle body and like a dummy left the overflow tube off. Next day I was going on a long trip and after riding about 90 miles, had to stop for gas.

Gassed it up, moved bike, went inside store to get some coffee, came out to find gas was actively leaking. Assumed fuel hose needed tightening. Removed tank to discover it was actually leaking from overflow because 1) tank was too full, 2)it was leaning because it was on kickstand.

I would have been okay if had put stupid overflow line back on it. Duh!

I hate working on this thing because never fails, I goof up somehow.

Next, I'm going to have to change brake pads on front. I keep putting it off... I'm not sure how worn they are but would feel better to go ahead and do it anyway.

I got other bonehead stories but I'm tired now... :wink
 

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Next, I'm going to have to change brake pads on front. I keep putting it off... I'm not sure how worn they are but would feel better to go ahead and do it anyway.
Its not a difficult job Dill, but ya gotta remember that the metal part goes against the caliper pistons and the softer stuff faces the disc. :)
 

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loosen the bolts on the front of the tank. Now take the bolts out the back of the tank. With a scrap piece of wood lift the back of the tank and stick the wood block in the back half to give you room. Maybe a 2x4
now you don't have to take the tank off
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the tank off and will get this all sorted tomorrow I hope.
 

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if I'm not mistaken the yellow piece is a cap for the intake, the black hose that you have on the intake box is the crank case vent hose that vents fumes and vapors from the crank case to burn in the intake. If you do that bypass I would recommend installing a small filter on the crank case side of the hose. people do this to make sure its just air going into the intake vs. air and extra oil, fuel, and water vapor. I have this done to my Buell, mostly because that bike spits a bit out of the PCV and crank case vent so I routed them to a catch can.
 

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if I'm not mistaken the yellow piece is a cap for the intake, the black hose that you have on the intake box is the crank case vent hose that vents fumes and vapors from the crank case to burn in the intake. If you do that bypass I would recommend installing a small filter on the crank case side of the hose. people do this to make sure its just air going into the intake vs. air and extra oil, fuel, and water vapor. I have this done to my Buell, mostly because that bike spits a bit out of the PCV and crank case vent so I routed them to a catch can.

I want to add filter there but don't know how or where I can find info. I'm sure filter would lessen crud buildup in TB.


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