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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Not being a mechanic and not having a very good work area I was on the fence about doing this job. I had changed plenty of dirt bike tires as a kid and after getting the dealer price on the job :rolleyes: I decided to go for it. Thought I'd post about it in case anyone else is where I was.
First, these two Witchdoctor's How-To vids cover the basics: front and rear
Now for my experience:
I used a Sears red jack to hoist the bike. It held fine but make sure you have the correct balance point. When I took the rear wheel off the first time the bike weighted forward, I had to put the rear back on and readjust the jack. On the front I did remove the fender, its a bit of pain but makes the job a lot easier, especially in limited space. I used a 5/8" hex(2013 XC) to turn the axial.
On the rear, the mufflers do have to be removed to do this job. I did not like the method WD shows in his video on setting the rear adjustments. My belt and alignment were in pretty good, so what I did was before I started anything was mark with a fine tip Sharpie on the axial adjustment plates the current alignment points. Simple right :) When I remounted the new tire I lined up the marks I had made, then added a 1/2 turn on each side to get correct belt tension. I used a 1 1/16" socket on the axial nut.
Additionally, I cleaned and re-greased the axials and spacers. It was helpful to mark(with a Sharpie) the spacers RB/RS, FB/FS for rear/front, brake side/shift side for no mix-ups. Put back together with blue Locktite on the brake bolts and axial pinch bolts.
As for the tire change I didn't want to mess with that pain in the ass, so I brought them to a local shop and had the dis-mount, mount & balance done for $75.
 

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Mufflers need not be removed. For rear wheel removal, with the bike raised on a lift, place a floor jack under the rear tire and apply just enough pressure to relieve the weight. Remove the shock bolts from the swingarm and lower the floor jack. Viola! The axle is below the mufflers!
 

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Mufflers need not be removed. For rear wheel removal, with the bike raised on a lift, place a floor jack under the rear tire and apply just enough pressure to relieve the weight. Remove the shock bolts from the swingarm and lower the floor jack. Viola! The axle is below the mufflers!
HA-Haa! :D ....Getting all geared up to change my own tires, Thanks for confirming what I suspected was the best way to do it! That was why I bought a bike lift and platform jack to slip under the tire to support the weight as removed the shock bolts and finagled the rear wheel off.. :D .. cheers
 

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You're welcome Mark!:) Pretty wife manned (personed) the floor jack for me.
 

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you can always stick a block of would under the tire your not taking off to prevent that tippy drop
 

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Remove the shock bolts from the swingarm before you lift the bike the jack it up far enough to get the axle out. Once you get the axle out you may have to jack the bike a little higher to be able to pull the wheel out from under the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My mufflers were already off(changed over to a set of Miller Mufflers) I noticed that they would have been in the way had they been on. Thanks for the advice.
 

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strap

I used a Sears red jack to hoist the bike. It held fine but make sure you have the correct balance point. When I took the rear wheel off the first time the bike weighted forward,
someone said it above..block under the tire that is staying on but I like to run a strap through the jugs and tie the bike to the jack for added stability
 

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someone said it above..block under the tire that is staying on but I like to run a strap through the jugs and tie the bike to the jack for added stability
Apparently, you do not have one of my lift adapter blocks. See the link below.thumb up
 

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I am curious why you removed the front fender....
I just took my front wheel off today to get the tire changed out and all I did was:
Remove Kuryakyn chrome fork lowers (N/A for you)
4 brake caliper bolts (bungee calipers out of the way)
Loosen two pinch bolts
Loosen axle with 16mm allen (socket bought on Amazon)
Jack bike up to get weight off axle and make it easy to slide out.
Jack bike up a few inches more to clear front fender and roll tire out.
A bit over 5 minutes (under 5 min. if I didn't have lower fork covers)
The important thing is you did it yourself! Saving money always feels good

BTW, you are more brave then me using the Dyna modded Sears jack. I had an older model, and even with the bunks spread for the mod they were spaced too narrow and wobbly. That thing made me VERY nervous with my first rear tire change. I gave it away, and bought the J&S (best money ever spend on tools/equipment)
 

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....BTW, you are more brave then me using the Dyna modded Sears jack. I had an older model, and even with the bunks spread for the mod they were spaced too narrow and wobbly. That thing made me VERY nervous with my first rear tire change. I gave it away, and bought the J&S (best money ever spend on tools/equipment)
I got a J&S too.. Those things are rock solid.. thumb up
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am curious why you removed the front fender....
BTW, you are more brave then me using the Dyna modded Sears jack. I had an older model, and even with the bunks spread for the mod they were spaced too narrow and wobbly. That thing made me VERY nervous with my first rear tire change. I gave it away, and bought the J&S (best money ever spend on tools/equipment)
I had limited space and jacking ability, it just made the process easier to remove the fender and lift the wheel out(as well as back in).
As for the jack, the "Dyna mod" made a difference in where the lift pads sit, once I got the front to back balance point right it was rock solid at all points without a block, I used a strap initially but took it off because it was more in my way than helping anything.
 

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Apparently, you do not have one of my lift adapter blocks. See the link below.thumb up
It really helps! cheers
 
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