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Hey all, so since I bought my bike in Jan of this year with 5700 miles on it and about 1/2 the tread gone.. it now has 11,500 and looks like time for it's (my) first tire change..

I noticed the guy that had it before me had put what looks to be a larger tire on the rear when I compare them to what in my service manual..

2005 Victory Vegas 8-Ball
Service Manual:
Rear - Dunlop D417 180/55-B18 74V

Actually on the bike:
Rear - Dunlop E3 200/50 R18 76H

**Ignoring front for this discussion since the front tire is to spec***

But for the rear I'm wondering.. I've never witnessed any rubbing or odd feeling/smell that would indicate the tire is hitting the swing arm or rubbing after tire warm up however it is rather close... I realize it's very stupid to ask anyone on this forum to stray from anything that the service manual tells you.. since we obviously realize you make that decision solely at your own risk.. but I'm wondering since I've driven this bike with no issues for 5000ish miles would/could it be safe to say that I can slap another one of these "out of spec" but slightly wider and "cooler" looking tires right back on..? or did I just get lucky and I'm asking for trouble if I cont with this out of spec setup; should I go back to the 180...? The guy did chop the back fender a bit so the rear tire is slightly more visible than the ave Vegas - this is truthfully the only reason I'm asking this.. worried the bike will look odd with a skinny back tire that's more exposed.

looking for advice and what others out there have possibly done in similar situations/scenarios.



Thanks
 

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But in all seriousness...if you don't see any evidence of the tire rubbing on the swing arm and you've ridden the **** out of it - I don't see why you couldn't just keep on keepin' on.

But I'd look real close.
 

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Bike came with a 180/60R16 but I installed a 180/65B16. No issues.
(waiting for the "OMG bias and radial, oh noes!" crowd) :D :D
 

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A 200mm tire is designed for a 6" rim. By putting it on your 5" rim it will wear funny as it is being 'pinched' by the rim and it won't really be 200mm wide once mounted and rounder in profile than designed.

Visually, the 200 tire will not look any wider than a 180... the difference in tire width is 20mm and the rim is pinching the tire by 25mm...

You can do a radial rear and a bias front no problem. Some bikes come from the factory like that. It is not advisable to use a bias rear and a radial front.
 

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It is not advisable to use a bias rear and a radial front.
I've heard this many times, but never really found out the 'why'. I chose it because it has a higher load rating. Why is it ill-advised? (not being a smart ass, trying to learn something here...)
 

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I've heard this many times, but never really found out the 'why'. I chose it because it has a higher load rating. Why is it ill-advised? (not being a smart ass, trying to learn something here...)
Do you have a radial up front?

A radial front and bias rear has been known to create dynamic instability. Even on cars, this has been a rule of thumb for a long time.

You can get radials with an 80 load rating....
 

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Do you have a radial up front?

A radial front and bias rear has been known to create dynamic instability. Even on cars, this has been a rule of thumb for a long time.

You can get radials with an 80 load rating....
I do have a radial up front. The rear has a load rating of 81, which is why I selected it.
 

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I'd say run the same you have now if you didn't have any problem. Sure looks better than a skinny tire. Of course, being a bit pinched doesn't give you the full 200 effect, but still better I'm sure.

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
 

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I do have a radial up front. The rear has a load rating of 81, which is why I selected it.
The OEM rear tire is 80 load-rated. The 81 load-rating only adds 27 pounds more weight capacity in exchange for a stiffer and heavier tire with a bias ply carcass. Is it worth it?
 

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I'd say run the same you have now if you didn't have any problem. Sure looks better than a skinny tire. Of course, being a bit pinched doesn't give you the full 200 effect, but still better I'm sure.
Better in what way?
 

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I thought so. I don’t seem to notice any problems with the radial front and the bias rear, but then I’m not sure what a dynamic instability feels like. I’ll take the extra capacity.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Better in what way?
Strictly looks brother, strictly looks.... Everytime I see most motorcycles from outback, the tiny tire is always what strikes me first. Especially a bagger with a fat rider.... Not sexy at all.

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Discussion Starter #14
so heard this...
"....Visually, the 200 tire will not look any wider than a 180... the difference in tire width is 20mm and the rim is pinching the tire by 25mm... "

got me thinking.. am I actually screwing myself when going a 200 vs 180 by 5mm? And the 200 will be "taller" since it's squeezed and bumped up?

Should I focus more on the aspect ratio instead of the width to achieve the best look? Any suggestions on tires that would fall into the correct 180 width but possibly give a lower profile hence wider visual affect?
 

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I thought so. I don’t seem to notice any problems with the radial front and the bias rear, but then I’m not sure what a dynamic instability feels like. I’ll take the extra capacity.


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My Gunner in new shoes - 150R front and 160B rear - feels much more "dynamically stable" than before with stock ones (130B/140B). At least up to 100mph. So I do not give a ****, even though recently I found out it is illegal in my country to have front radial combined with bias rear... Maybe I will need to change when going for annual registration examination...:nanana:
 

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I've got a car tire on back and a rear tire on front...so I know you're not asking me.
I'm running the same setup on my XC because that bike is heavy enough and has the wheels the right sizes to do it. My KP is too light to run a CT on the back. The tires are lasting a long time on it anyway.

I thought so. I don’t seem to notice any problems with the radial front and the bias rear, but then I’m not sure what a dynamic instability feels like. I’ll take the extra capacity.
In the Victory realm it has only been the Kingpin's that seem to be affected by the bias rear radial front setup. Pretty sure it's the rake/trail dynamic which is different by just a little bit but apparently enough to make the difference.

It's your call of course but you might consider a radial CT next time. You get a nice riding long lasting safer (run flat) heavier load rated tire that way. I got 18k miles out of my first rear CT which was a snow tire so it had a 50% softer top tread with the bottom tread normal hardness. This time I went with an all season CT which I think I'll get at least 25k miles out of. If you are really feeling frisky; you could try the same rear MT I have on the front of my XC.

I've also gotten quite a few good comments on that "fat" back tire rated at 87V and it handles like a dream.
 

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These tires look great on a bike... the rear tire looks fatter than any 180mm I have used. They are a little pricey.

PIRELLI NIGHT DRAGON 90/90-21 M/C 54H, FRONT

PIRELLI NIGHT DRAGON 180/55R-18 M/C (74W), REAR

I don't choose tires for looks... My bike lookin' all sexy and **** is not something I concern myself with.
Maybe not you, but most people do, that's why they sell Shitload of chrome bits and ends.... Its not like going from 180 to 200 is unsafe. And although the end result might not have the total effect the tire size should, it will definitely be different. I had done exactly that on my VTX. Go from 180 to 200.

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Discussion Starter #19

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You can do a radial rear and a bias front no problem. Some bikes come from the factory like that. It is not advisable to use a bias rear and a radial front.

Exactly how the Indian Chieftain comes OEM .. 180/60-R16 Rear and 130/90-B16 Front and Handles Great ..
 

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