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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I'm having two issues on my XR that just started popping up yesterday. Curious if anyone may know of a common problem related to either. I can pull apart and put back together most anything, but I lack a bit in the diagnostics end of things. 2011 XR, 11K.

First off is a minor "starting" issue. It'll still start, but is acting a bit odd...and I don't fully recall if she'd done this before or not. In the Spring of 2012 I replaced the ignition system with a Digital Guard Dawg RFID. Never had any issues. And I don't know that this will be related. Anyhow, I'll flip the switch to turn the bike on, finish gearing up and then I hit the starter. Sometimes I get a turn or a few...but then it just dies..all the lights, etc. I hit it again and it fires up just fine. Perhaps the battery? Or perhaps nothing at all.

The other issue is a little more concerning. I live in MN and we just hit our first 80+ degree day in eight months...so heat is seldom an issue. But after some longer riding yesterday, I pulled off and let her run for a minute or two while I looked up directions. In that time, the check engine light came on. She's running fine and I'm a mile away so I head over. Light goes away as I get speed, so I'm guessing heat warning. Happens again today. I've ridden in much warmer temps and waited for much longer periods without it coming on so quickly. The oil is about 1200 miles old and the level is good. Just seems that it is heat related but it comes on very quickly. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any help!

PS: Only engine mod is Witchdoctor moddified slip ons (not gutted). Have had them since about new. Never any issues. And there's nothing obstructing air flow.
 

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put a wrench on battery terminals bet there loose
add 1/4" lock washers to each one to keep them tight
 

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put a wrench on battery terminals bet there loose
add 1/4" lock washers to each one to keep them tight
Yep, when issues like these pop up the tighten battery suggestion always is first up AND you never hear any follow-up questions. It must solve most of the problems.
 

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I was thinking the same on the battery for the starting "issue".

As for the check engine light, if you added less restrictive mufflers you might be inducing a lean running condition which means hotter exhaust pipes and higher temps.....Maybe now that you're riding in warmer weather it is enough to over heat your engine some.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was thinking the same on the battery for the starting "issue".

As for the check engine light, if you added less restrictive mufflers you might be inducing a lean running condition which means hotter exhaust pipes and higher temps.....Maybe now that you're riding in warmer weather it is enough to over heat your engine some.
I'll double check the battery post. Recently did something there so yeah...maybe that's it.

As for the exhaust, I do agree with that. However, I've been running them for at least the last two full riding seasons (about 8,000 miles). And I've ridden in much, much warmer weather without it popping up so quickly.
 

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Check the battery posts first as that's a quick and easy solution. If that doesn't solve the issue my bet would be on a low battery. This is a common issue in the aprilia world. Big, high compression v-twin is shut down. Motor happens to stop on a compression stroke. Battery has power but it's getting a bit weak and can't push that big jug through the compression. Voltage dips and everything shuts down. In the time it takes to cycle the key off and on some of that compression has bled off so when you hit the button again the motor spins and the bike starts. 50% of the time this is solved by charging the battery with a tender or other charger. The other 50% the battery is on it's way out and will need to be replaced soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check the battery posts first as that's a quick and easy solution. If that doesn't solve the issue my bet would be on a low battery. This is a common issue in the aprilia world. Big, high compression v-twin is shut down. Motor happens to stop on a compression stroke. Battery has power but it's getting a bit weak and can't push that big jug through the compression. Voltage dips and everything shuts down. In the time it takes to cycle the key off and on some of that compression has bled off so when you hit the button again the motor spins and the bike starts. 50% of the time this is solved by charging the battery with a tender or other charger. The other 50% the battery is on it's way out and will need to be replaced soon.
That was kind of my initial thought. I have a trip around Superior in a month so I think I'll just replace the battery. It's over three years old anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Didn't get a chance to check the battery last night but sure enough...wouldn't go this morning. Interestingly enough, did anyone know that our gauge shows the battery volts when there's an issue? Took me a second, but it read Lo10.0, then Lo09.9. Kind of cool!

Anyhow...now the probably heat issue.
 

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I ride year around here in Phoenix and with our 110-115 summer temps the heat hasn't been an issue at all so I have to doubt 80 anything could possibly cause any problem.
 

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Didn't get a chance to check the battery last night but sure enough...wouldn't go this morning. Interestingly enough, did anyone know that our gauge shows the battery volts when there's an issue? Took me a second, but it read Lo10.0, then Lo09.9. Kind of cool!

Anyhow...now the probably heat issue.
If your showing 10v just turning on the key your battery is shot.
 

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Every time the check engine light comes on, there is an associated code (listing the specific cause or "trigger" of the warning light) that your bike's ecu saves until it is shut off again.

The shop manual lists the different codes and tells you how to find your code if your check engine light comes on again.

My xc had a similar issue about a yr ago and while I can't remember, I believe it may have been a low voltage warning code.

My advice is to look up how to find the diagnostic code on your specific bike so you are able to get it if your light ever comes back on. My guess is that it probably won't come back after replacement of your bad battery...

Good luck!




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battery definitely sounds like a good place to start to me. I left my ignition on for several hours one afternoon and got the low voltage warning too. I did not think it was especially neat at the time :ltr:

It may also be throwing your trouble code at idle since your voltage will be dipping system-wide as the alternator struggles to keep a charge on the battery. Personally, I've sat idling in traffic in 100 degree weather for 10 minutes without issue. I'd be surprised at an overheating issue.
 
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