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Discussion Starter #1
So on another forum that I used to frequent when I had my Kawasaki Voyager XII several long time riders always suggested putting some seafoam into the oil and running the bike till up to temperature before doing a change. Is that something that is recommended here? I was bad and did not do the oil change before I put the bike to bed last fall and I will be doing this right away.

Thoughts?
 

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There isn't a solid yes or no answer to this. It depends on the engine, age, miles, etc.

This write-up from Amsoil might shed some light so you can make an informed decision.

https://blog.amsoil.com/is-an-engine-flush-good-or-bad/

If you do decide to flush it; I would recommend this product. I think Seafoam is overrated by a lot.

 

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I read the label on a can of Seafoam I have and they recommend 1 oz. per quart in the oil. I have never done that, so no report.
 

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Just because you read something on the net doesn't mean you should do it. Follow what your owners manual tells you to do and you will be fine.
 

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So on another forum that I used to frequent when I had my Kawasaki Voyager XII several long time riders always suggested putting some seafoam into the oil and running the bike till up to temperature before doing a change. Is that something that is recommended here? I was bad and did not do the oil change before I put the bike to bed last fall and I will be doing this right away.

Thoughts?
I don't "Seafoam" my engine oil before a change. But I do add it before I put my XC away for winter storage. Let me say, I do oil changes at ~5k mile intervals, where ever they fall is when I do the change. I put the bike away last Nov with ~3200 miles on the oil, I put 4oz of SeaFoam in the oil(and 6oz, in a full tank of fuel) ran the bike a few miles then put it up for the winter on a trickle charger. It fired up immediately on taking out this year(as it always does ;) ) and it is running fine. I'll do an oil and filter change at the 5k mark but won't add any SeaFoam until the end of the year, just prior to storage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you, Thats the info I was looking for. Do you recommend warming up the oil before changing it? (running the bike) I was planning to do a flush with some extra oil I have anyhow.
 

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Thank you, Thats the info I was looking for. Do you recommend warming up the oil before changing it? (running the bike) I was planning to do a flush with some extra oil I have anyhow.
Always warm the engine\oil before changing
 

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It's best to drain the oil after returning from a LONG ride when the oil is at its hottest and all the crud is in suspension and not settled.
 

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I regularly add Seafoam to the gas in all my internal combustion engines. Though I've never added any to the oil.
 

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I don't think this is a good idea, mostly because no matter how hard you try you are never getting all of the oil out of these bikes. I wouldn't like the idea of unintentionally thinning the brand new oil.
 

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What would be the point of adding seafoam to the oil ?

Getting the sludge out ?

Motorcycle engines do not have sludge , unlike old car or truck engines, and if there would be sludge you would certainly NOT want a piece coming loose due to seafoam and block a oil channel



Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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What would be the point of adding seafoam to the oil ?

Getting the sludge out ?

Motorcycle engines do not have sludge , unlike old car or truck engines, and if there would be sludge you would certainly NOT want a piece coming loose due to seafoam and block a oil channel
I think a lot of people still think the oil is the same as it was 30+ years ago. There are a lot of detergents in oil to prevent sludge build up nowadays. If someone is getting a sludge build up with today's oils then either the bike sat for years and/or doesn't get oil changes at least every 5k miles. Once the oil has suspended all the particulates it can; then sludge can form but it would take a lot of gunk to get to that level. Dirt/particulates would have to be getting in through a breather or some other place for that to happen.

Some people think if their car or bike burns oil at a fast rate then when they add new oil all the time they don't need to do oil changes like if it didn't burn oil. Not true of course. I would use a product called "Restore" on an engine like that to keep it going until it could be rebuilt or replaced.

I don't use internal engine cleaning products in my bikes but I would consider it for a used car with a lot of miles on it but I would use it sparingly and just for 10 miles or so; just before an oil change.

Never flush an automatic transmission. There is lots of info on the net to explain why. I will, however, drain trans oil, replace the trans oil pan with one that has a drain plug and of course a new filter, then drain the 4 or 5 quarts of trans fluid once in a while to slowly replace the fluid over a period of a 1000 miles or so. Do that 3 times and it has a good trans fluid change without risking all those little pieces of crud or other materials coming loose causing problems in all the small passages or getting in the bands.

That's my 2 centavo's.
 

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There isn't a solid yes or no answer to this. It depends on the engine, age, miles, etc.

This write-up from Amsoil might shed some light so you can make an informed decision.

https://blog.amsoil.com/is-an-engine-flush-good-or-bad/

If you do decide to flush it; I would recommend this product. I think Seafoam is overrated by a lot.

https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-2037-Pro-Line-Engine/dp/B00CR3RXTO/ref=zg_bs_15719111_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VJGYJEARH00K6P0YT202
Here is my recommendation:
NEVER ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR OIL

What all of these things you are reading don't speak about is WET CLUTCH.
Your oil is SHARED with the transmission and primary drive. Whatever you put in your oil will get on the clutch plates.

Marvels Mystery Oil is also a product that can be added to oil. Do you know what it is made of? Friction modifiers. Do you know what makes clutches slip... what makes oil incompatible with wet clutches? FRICTION MODIFIERS!

Once again:
NEVER ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR OIL
 

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Here is my recommendation:
NEVER ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR OIL

What all of these things you are reading don't speak about is WET CLUTCH.
Your oil is SHARED with the transmission and primary drive. Whatever you put in your oil will get on the clutch plates.

Marvels Mystery Oil is also a product that can be added to oil. Do you know what it is made of? Friction modifiers. Do you know what makes clutches slip... what makes oil incompatible with wet clutches? FRICTION MODIFIERS!

Once again:
NEVER ADD ANYTHING TO YOUR OIL
I've been adding Seafoam for years to the oil for winterization. This XC has ~60k on the the clutch and it has never slipped. There is no noticeable difference in the spring with the Seafoam in than to running during oil changes where I don't use it.
 

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I am a strong believer in the adage, "one test is worth a thousand expert opinions."
 

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I have never used seafoam... don't know what's in it... I didn't say it would make the clutch slip, but with all the clutch issues people post on the Victory sites, I personally wouldn't take any chances.

What I also don't know is why we would need to use seafoam? My engine is clean inside. When taken apart at 94K miles it was clean as a pin inside. It doesn't need 'cleaning' and the oil doesn't need treating.

Now, I do use Marvels in the fuel. Why? To lubricate the fuel pump because gasoline these days is dry as a popcorn fart and has no lubricating properties like it did when it had lead in it.

I don't make claims of being an expert on anything, but I do have 110K+ miles on the original clutch that came in the bike from the factory. It has a stiffer spring and that's all... it holds 144 ft-lbs of torque that makes it to the rear wheel of this bike. Does that count as a test?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, I ended up adding the Seafoam to the oil as planned and ran the bike for about 20min and near the end revving the engine to get the temps up (the outside air temps was chilly at only a handful of degrees above freezing), I then drained that oil out filled with new and took for a spin for about 20min and then returned and drained that oil out changed the filter and filled again with Rotella T6. Better safe than sorry and now the oil is nice and clean and Im ready to roll.
 
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