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Discussion Starter #1
I purchased a 2004 vegas this month and love it so far but it has a pretty good vibration to it. as far as I know, the bike is stock. starting around 2500 rpm there is a pretty good vibration that gets worse as the rpm increase. I have ran it around 4000 rpm and pulled the clutch in and the vibration immediately goes away. normally I would set the valve clearance and rebuild and sync the carbs but ive never had a fuel injected bike so im not sure where to start.
 

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I purchased a 2004 vegas this month and love it so far but it has a pretty good vibration to it. as far as I know, the bike is stock. starting around 2500 rpm there is a pretty good vibration that gets worse as the rpm increase. I have ran it around 4000 rpm and pulled the clutch in and the vibration immediately goes away. normally I would set the valve clearance and rebuild and sync the carbs but ive never had a fuel injected bike so im not sure where to start.
If you have it at 4k with the clutch in what does it do? 4000rpm while in neutral on kickstand, vs Pull in clutch at 60 with engine idle tells a good story. Might sound dumb but don't ignore belt tension either. Too tight will do weird stuff - squeaks, vibes, etc, and will change on/off throttle..

XC, KP, & Custom MuscleVic in Boise
 

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Discussion Starter #3
while cruising at 4000 rpm and then pulling in the clutch and having the vibration stop tells me its not a tire or alignment/suspension issue which I originally thought was the case. when I cruise at 4000rpm it vibrates pretty badly and when I pull the clutch in and the rpm drop the vibration smooths out. I have tried it in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear at different rpms and the result is the same for each gear.

as for the belt tension, I have never owned a belt driven motorcycle but was told compared to most makes, victory wants their belts looser than most makes. I have a belt tension gauge and did set the tension and align the rear wheel as per the manual at 10 lbs pressure but it didnt seem particularly loose to me and I double checked it on the stand after everything was tightened.
 

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while cruising at 4000 rpm and then pulling in the clutch and having the vibration stop tells me its not a tire or alignment/suspension issue which I originally thought was the case. when I cruise at 4000rpm it vibrates pretty badly and when I pull the clutch in and the rpm drop the vibration smooths out. I have tried it in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear at different rpms and the result is the same for each gear.

as for the belt tension, I have never owned a belt driven motorcycle but was told compared to most makes, victory wants their belts looser than most makes. I have a belt tension gauge and did set the tension and align the rear wheel as per the manual at 10 lbs pressure but it didnt seem particularly loose to me and I double checked it on the stand after everything was tightened.
Yep - that's what I was asking. Fresh plugs are cheap & you should do a compression check while you swap them. If compression isn't balanced between the cylinders, save the new plugs for when you get it fixed. Sounds like you have a dead or weak cylinder maybe? Tough to tell remotely!

XC, KP, & Custom MuscleVic in Boise
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did put new plugs in it and change the oil when I got it home. I will check the compression and see if the cylinders are close to each other but thats about all the harbor freight kit is good for.

as for the belt, should it feel somewhat tight? just want to make sure my belt adjustment was done properly because it is drastically tighter than it was initially on the bike when I bought it. it had a ton of play initially.
 

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Get someone to help roll it until you find the tightest spot - can make a difference. Manual says 10lbs pressure should move belt by 11mm (7/16") from relaxed position using the belt tension gauge.
If you don't have the tension meter, as a sanity-check you can grab the belt with a couple fingers, it should have over half-inch from pushing down to lifting up.
10 lbs isn't much pressure.
If up/down is under an inch when I change oil, I don't bother checking with the meter (slacker).
Tight is worse than loose, IMO. Tight can give squeaks/creaks, a low frequency hum, and wear out bearings and sprockets quicker.

Compression should be 180 +20. Meaning 200 is fine, but under 180 is bad. If that's the source of vibration, you'd have significant disparity between the cylinders.

A fuel issue with one or the other cylinder can cause similar issue to a low compression cylinder. Tougher to see, but same basic symptom - one cylinder not firing well. Doesn't hurt to throw an ounce per gallon of seafoam in the gas. That does a better job cleaning up fuel resins than any injector cleaner I've used, even though it sounds a little redneck.

Another way to tell if a cylinder isn't firing well is to use a laser thermometer & check the temp of the headpipes. If one is significantly lower than the other (use high-idle choke lever to spin it up a little) then ignition, fuel, or compression is bad in the low cylinder. Prob the quickest way to isolate to engine?
I did put new plugs in it and change the oil when I got it home. I will check the compression and see if the cylinders are close to each other but thats about all the harbor freight kit is good for.

as for the belt, should it feel somewhat tight? just want to make sure my belt adjustment was done properly because it is drastically tighter than it was initially on the bike when I bought it. it had a ton of play initially.
XC, KP, & Custom MuscleVic in Boise
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks! one discrepancy with the belt. the manual that I downloaded stated the tension should be set at 9mm at 10lbs of force.
it says it is the service manual for 2003-2005 vegas and kingpins.

I will check the compression, temps and throw some seafoam in the tank which I have plenty of, lol.
 

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I gotta dive in here to set this belt voodoo straight. I set mine by the manual and it would be guitar string tight when hot. When it's hot is the crucial test. I even rechecked, adjusting per the manual instructions, and yes, I have the belt tension gauge. A tight belt has to be hard on bearings.
I was talking about this with an Aussie who frequents this forum. He is a prolific hotrodder and engine builder and drag races his bikes and cars. His advice was to adjust the belt so that there is some slack in it what it gets hot. I took his advice and all is good and the gauge is collecting dust.
 

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This is the service manual that I downloaded.
Mine is an 06 manual. Says 11mm for 03-05 & 12mm for 06. Maybe they learned to loosen it a bit? I'll check my 2012 manual & see what it says!

I leave mine on my bikes on the loose side & works well & quietly.

XC, KP, & Custom MuscleVic in Boise
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I looked into the belt a bit and the 9mm is for a new belt and a 2nd manual for the same years states 11mm for a belt with over 500 miles. I will adjust it around 11mm and make sure it is on the loose side and has slack while the belt is hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I loosened the belt to around 12mm and made sure it was not really tight after I went for a ride.
I also did a compression check and the cylinders are fairly equal. One was 79psi and the other 80psi. (Keep in mind this was done with a harbor freight compression tester and while they normally read from 50-100 psi low they are decent for checking the variation in cylinders.)
 

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say add your year and model bike along with location so we don't have to go back to the first poet to see what your riding.
Now is this a miner vibration in foot pegs or in handlebars
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It is a 2004 vegas arlen ness and I am in Columbus Ohio. I tried to put that info in my signature but I guess it didn't work. I'll try again when I get to a computer tonight.
I have just noticed in in general, almost more in the seat or the bike itself. When I take it out this evening, I will see if it's more noticeable in the foot pegs or handlebars.
 

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I loosened the belt to around 12mm and made sure it was not really tight after I went for a ride.
I also did a compression check and the cylinders are fairly equal. One was 79psi and the other 80psi. (Keep in mind this was done with a harbor freight compression tester and while they normally read from 50-100 psi low they are decent for checking the variation in cylinders.)
Definitely close enough. An experienced mechanic would stick his thumb over the plug hole one at a time and spin the engine with the starter. He's looking for one being noticeably different.

Check for belt alignment as well. Lift the back of the bike with a bike lift or something then spin the back wheel backwards. The belt should walk slightly inward toward the wheel. Spin the wheel forward and it should walk slightly outward without rubbing the outer edge of the sprocket.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the tip on the belt. When I adjusted it looser, I aligned it so when I spun the wheel forward the belt was near the center. I will toss it back up on the lift and re align it as you say.
 

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BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN SPINNING THE REAR WHEEL BY HAND AND MESSING WITH THE BELT. Getting a finger in the wrong place while doing this can easily result in loss of part or all of said finger.
 

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BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN SPINNING THE REAR WHEEL BY HAND AND MESSING WITH THE BELT. Getting a finger in the wrong place while doing this can easily result in loss of part or all of said finger.
Was it @LILMAGS500 who lost a piece of his finger ?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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Yeah looser is better on belt having just replaced my bearings earlier this year pretty sure tight belt from prior owner killed them. If it doesn't slip when cold you're good. Mine is beyond the spec on purpose and I have zero issues with it set that way. Definitely do the alignment procedure though.
 
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