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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there, I have an 07 kingpin. I had installed the lloydz timing wheel at +4. Bike pulled very well, but it feels "thumpy". It's not like a vibration but like the explosion is making the bike shake. The idle seems kinda lopey also, and if I barely twist the throttle it sort of stumbles until about 2k. Then it's fine. The plugs actually look a little rich and it had been dynoed before the wheel. I'm not sure if I should add fuel at and around idle or what. I retarded to +2, the feeling of vibes were better, bike didn't respondas well as the 4. I want to go back to the 4. Anybody have tthis happen? I've searched alot and found little advice. Yes the torque of all bolts were checked, checked and re-checked. Suggestions would help.
 

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Could be you didn't get the magnetic pickup back where it should be, or pinched a wire. Just guessin'.
 

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Rick has a good point. All of these bikes don't respond the same to the timing wheel, and mine did much the same, but stayed like riding a giant cell phone all the way through.
My question to you is,,,,,,,,,does your fuel controller advance timing in the upper RPM range?
Shoot Ryland, Lloydz, KevinX (Cross, at Southern Motorworks) an email and see what they have to say.
Mine was a 106, and an X bike, so a different animal.

Best wishes
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. My motor is the pre-08, so mine is installed behind the flywheel under the clutch cover or primary cover. No wires to pinch. I have a power commander 3 and you can't advance timing with it so that's out, and I did try lloydz, and was given very little info. Pretty disappointing really, thay I can't get info from the guy that built it. It was one of his workers that kept responding not lloyd himself, but said it shouldn't do that and it is either loose bolts or its too lean. It's neither of those. I would surely be pissed off if I spent $200 and then $45 for a primary gasket and oil for absolutely nothing. I'm ok riding it with the vibration feeling, I just don't want it to throw off anything on the crank. The motor feels like it itself doesn't vibrate that much at all when I put my hand on it. Also I'm running 93 octane. Thanks for the things to check though.
 

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have you ever cleaned the throttle body. Have you looked for cracked rubber plugs or vacuum lines

maybe VFC111 is acting up bad ground or something
 

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1) The timing wheel changes the fuel mixture as well. You need to tune it AFTER the install of the ATS, not before.
2) The older bikes already have a lot of timing advance. If you have a stage 1 or a Lloydz ecu... there's even more timing in that... 4 degrees is going to be way too much advance.
3) I have my timing wheel set at -2 degrees... picked up 5 HP when I took those 2 degrees out and NO MORE OCTANE BOOSTER.
 

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1) The timing wheel changes the fuel mixture as well. You need to tune it AFTER the install of the ATS, not before.
2) The older bikes already have a lot of timing advance. If you have a stage 1 or a Lloydz ecu... there's even more timing in that... 4 degrees is going to be way too much advance.
3) I have my timing wheel set at -2 degrees... picked up 5 HP when I took those 2 degrees out and NO MORE OCTANE BOOSTER.
Well there ya go!
Any idea how much advance my 2010 / 100cube would have had?...,,its now at 4 on the ATS and has PCV and dyno, and runs fine.
 

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Well there ya go!
Any idea how much advance my 2010 / 100cube would have had?...,,its now at 4 on the ATS and has PCV and dyno, and runs fine.
I was only speaking of 2006/2007 bikes, a whole different animal than your bike. Everything from the airbox to the pistons is different on yours. Compression, heads, ecu.... all of it. Nothing I said applies to you. Your timing wheel is on the other side of the bike from ours.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Tb is clean as a whistle and the intake boot was new last year. I sprayed carb cleaner around it and no leaks. I haven't been using octane booster. 93 is premium pump fuel in ohio and the guy that dynoed it said to only run that. So did I waste my money on this thing? Should I really try -2 timing? Half crazy I know you have alot of mods to yours. I dont, just s&s intake and a side burners 2 in 1 pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Or should i leave it at +2 now and add a touch on the map at idle and see if it clears it up confirming a lean idle?
 

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Tb is clean as a whistle and the intake boot was new last year. I sprayed carb cleaner around it and no leaks. I haven't been using octane booster. 93 is premium pump fuel in ohio and the guy that dynoed it said to only run that. So did I waste my money on this thing? Should I really try -2 timing? Half crazy I know you have alot of mods to yours. I dont, just s&s intake and a side burners 2 in 1 pipe.
The only way to KNOW is to dyno it again. Whatever we tell you on this forum is conjecture and the only way to tune it is to tune it.

Is the timing too much? Is the mixture jacked? I can't tell over the internet...

Changing the base timing by 4 degrees will definitely jack up your fuel curves, I know that much...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Damn It I was afraid of that lol. I really had not heard alot of the wheel when I had it dynoed. I know he charges 250 for a tune, if he has to pull the primary every adjustment it's gonna cost me a testicle. Might just put the stock wheel in and call it a learning experience. If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
 

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volcrano

If it were me I would run 89 octane you don't need 93 then I would email Rylan at The Vic Shop and ask him what you should set the wheel at.
After Rylan tell you set the wheel and go get it dyno
 
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