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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Here is my Install and Review of the VictoryOnly.com EZ-Clutch on my 2012 XCT. The pdf download of this install/review can be downloaded at http://www.itrider.net/downloads/HowTo_Install_EZ_Clutch.pdf


How to Intall VictoryOnly.com EZ-Clutch

I take no responsibility for ensuring the accuracy of any information (including procedures, techniques, parts numbers, torque values, tool usage, etc.), or further for any damage of any kind or injuries incurred or caused by anyone following the instructions or information found here.

It is the duty of the individual to either assume the liability himself for responsibly using the information found here, or to take the bike or accessory to a Dealer or other qualified professional service.

I. Remove right side plastic cover to reveal Clutch Cable Adjuster
1. Pull on each corner of the plastic triangle (rubber grommets hold it in place)
2. Be careful not to scratch the plastic if you have rear passenger foot pegs installed​

II. Loosen the Clutch Cable
1. Use a 1/2” box wrench on the lower lock nut
2. Use a 9/16” box wrench on the long adjustment nut
3. After you have separated the lock nut from the adjustment nut, turn the adjustment “clockwise” till the Clutch Cable is very loose​

 

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Discussion Starter #2
III. Install the EZ-Clutch
1. On the left side of the bike, repeat step “I” to remove the plastic cover just behind the Clutch mechanism (this will for more room to work)
2. The instructions that come with the EZ-Clutch say to use soft pliers or pliers with a rag to rotate the stock mechanism “clockwise”; do this and the stock cable with the cylinder end will easily be removed from the mechanism
3. Install the EZ-Clutch over the stock mechanism
i. Like the instructions say; Use Blue Locktite on the screw that secures the EZ-Clutch to the mechanism (washer goes on the outside against the screw)​
4. Using your hand, rotate the EZ-Clutch clockwise so you can insert the stock clutch cable end into the new mechanism
5. NOTE: I had to loosen my cable slightly more and rotate the EZ-Clutch quite a bit in order to get the cylinder to fit inside the new mechanism.
6. BE CAREFUL not to kink or bend the clutch cable!​

IV. Adjust the Clutch Cable – This section is critical to proper Clutch operation
1. Turn the Clutch Cable long adjustment nut clockwise
i. It will not turn as much as it did for loosening since you lengthened the pull by changing the angle of the cable​
2. Check the Clutch lever play (see manual)
i. Clutch free-play should be .5-1.5mm per the manual​
3. Go back and forth with adjusting and lever actuating to find the proper free-play
4. A trick from the Victory mechanic who showed me how to confirm free-play
i. On the Clutch lever, the black Clutch cable that goes into the lever mechanism is seated in the handle (round cable into round housing)
ii. Pull this cable in/out of the lever (it will move slightly if there is free play)
iii. This “seats” the Clutch cable in case it was moved while loosening/tightening​
5. Perform the 3 types of adjustments until you achieve the correct free-play
6. Start the motorcycle and check for Clutch engagement
i. The tension on the cable after rocking forward in 1st gear may change the free-play in the Clutch lever
ii. I needed to make further adjustments to my Clutch cable to achieve the proper free-play after doing this a few times​
7. When you are satisfied that the free-play in the Clutch lever is per the manual specifications, tighten the 9/16” lock nut to the long 1/2” adjustment nut
8. Go for a short ride and double check the Clutch cable free-play again (reassurance it is adjusted properly)
9. NOTE: You will notice that the angle of the cable coming out of the tube going towards the EZ-Clutch mechanism changed
i. I did not find it necessary to modify this angle since the cable barely touched the edge of the tube and with proper lubrication it would not wear; however, I will be watching this area long term​



 

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Discussion Starter #3
V. Cleanup
1. Once satisfied with the adjustments, wipe down the chrome to make it sparkle
2. Reinstall both side covers​

VI. Observations/Review
1. Instantly I noticed that the amount of force needed to use the Clutch was about 1/2-2/3 lighter!
i. I also noticed that the Clutch lever started to engage significantly closer to the handle
ii. Stock Clutch engagement started about 1 1/2” away from the handle
iii. EZ-Clutch engagement starts about 1/2” away from the handle and has a longer engagement throw​



2. Since the force needed to use the Clutch is less, feathering the Clutch was much easier and smoother
3. The EZ-Clutch accessory looks much better in my opinion compared to the stock mechanism​

 

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Nicely done and well documented. We need more threads like this :)
 

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Push that plastic sleeve back into the outer cable.
Thats what makes your cable pull smooth.
 

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i bought one too. its laying here at the shop on my desk.
it sure makes pushing my computer keys a lot easier. looks
like next week it will finally be attached to a new cross roads.
id like to second the thank you for the writeup and pics.
---irv

nice pretty red color too
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Push that plastic sleeve back into the outer cable.
Thats what makes your cable pull smooth.
Thanks. I'll take a look when I get home and push it in.
 

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nice review,
i have heard mixed reviews on this product.
keep us posted on how the cable wears
after a few thousand miles.wac
 

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Engages closer to the grip (don't know why this is desirable to people) but does it fully disengage? Rev the bike in gear and see if it 'creeps'. If you're not careful with the adjustment it won't fully engage either...

Had one... took it off...
 

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You can never adjust your clutch when the bike is warm or hot.

Always cold thumb up
 

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Engages closer to the grip (don't know why this is desirable to people) but does it fully disengage? Rev the bike in gear and see if it 'creeps'. If you're not careful with the adjustment it won't fully engage either...

Had one... took it off...
I don't like the clutch to start engaging too close either, maybe just not used to it.

I heard someplace ( maybe on a forum?) that these had a propensity to slip a little, particularly in higher gear roll ons, using all the torque. No idea if true or not. Be curious as to your results.

Definitely a nice writeupthumb up
 

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I don't like the clutch to start engaging too close either, maybe just not used to it.

I heard someplace ( maybe on a forum?) that these had a propensity to slip a little, particularly in higher gear roll ons, using all the torque. No idea if true or not. Be curious as to your results.

Definitely a nice writeupthumb up
With this particular Easy Clutch, I don't think this will happen. His lever actually has more free play than mine right now, and the clutch is definitely fully engaged. I rode it today and it is a fantastic improvement compared to my stock XR engagement. I compared them both side by side and was impressed.
 

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I guess that I don't understand the need, the clutch on my XC is easy enough to pull and with 20k+ miles on the bike it is as smooth as when it was new. The only thing I have done is to lube the plastic bushings on the ends of the cable with every oil change. It only takes a couple of minutes to do:)
 

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I heard someplace ( maybe on a forum?) that these had a propensity to slip a little, particularly in higher gear roll ons, using all the torque. No idea if true or not. Be curious as to your results.
If you take your time and get the clutch adjustment just right (razor edge between not fully engaging at one end and not fully releasing at the other) it works pretty good... but it seems like the shifting is harder because you're not getting as much disengagement as you do without it. It also makes the clutch feel vague and slower to sping back. I took mine off to go racing and never put it back on. Yes, the lever pull is higher effort, but the clutch action and disengagement is so much better without it.
 

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With this particular Easy Clutch, I don't think this will happen. His lever actually has more free play than mine right now, and the clutch is definitely fully engaged. I rode it today and it is a fantastic improvement compared to my stock XR engagement. I compared them both side by side and was impressed.
just picked up my new cr tonight and took down the ez pull
last night and had service manager put it on.man, what a
difference! dealer even said he was going to order a couple.
day and night for the better.had the part for a while but no
bike. now its complete--irv
 

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In addition to reading a great install documentation and review I learned two new things. I didn't know there was a device to make cable clutch pulls easier and I'm really quite surprised to learn that the XCT doesn't have a hydraulic clutch. Thanks for the knowledge!
 

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if you get one you wont know how you did w/o it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
If you take your time and get the clutch adjustment just right (razor edge between not fully engaging at one end and not fully releasing at the other) it works pretty good... but it seems like the shifting is harder because you're not getting as much disengagement as you do without it. It also makes the clutch feel vague and slower to sping back. I took mine off to go racing and never put it back on. Yes, the lever pull is higher effort, but the clutch action and disengagement is so much better without it.

half_crazy makes some good points here. Adjustment is the key from what I have experienced. As Bryman noticed, my clutch adjustment has more free play than his w/o the EZ. I have my 500 mile service tomorrow, so I was going to discuss this with the tech.

I do notice that the "spring back" is slower, but I attribute this to having a longer feathering of the lever. I was a motorcycle cop and we would go through clutches every 10k-15k because of the slow maneuvers (e.g. accidents, parades, showing off, etc). The longer feathering gives the rider more control of engagement, but at the cost of making the clutch seem like engagement is slower.

The main benefit for riders with this product will come to those of us with tendinitis, carpal tunnel, or other hand problems. If the stock clutch pull works for you, then there is no need for this. My hand gets sore after too much feathering these days, so it helps me. I just make sure that I'm carrying extra box wrenches just in case I notice the free play change (it shouldn't, but I'm a worry wort).

I hope this helps.
 
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