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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have received my new 40 amp breaker from "Pure Polaris" and am about to go and install it by removing the two nuts from the original, transplanting the cables to the new one, and then tightening the nuts on the studs. I'll then re-install the battery, and replace the grille and side garnish.

This may cause sunspot activity to increase, the magnetic poles of the Earth to reverse, and the pits of Hell may open up and swallow the continent.

You've now been warned.

As you were . . .
 

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Space Station #5

My 1st year at college was mostly a blur, but THIS was the soundtrack!
 

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why did you have to replace this breaker? My bike had a 20 min. total power falure while riding. After 20 min. it just turned back on but the clock had reset. sound like your issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
why did you have to replace this breaker? My bike had a 20 min. total power falure while riding. After 20 min. it just turned back on but the clock had reset. sound like your issue?
The breaker is a thermal device; heat activates it, not current per se. The breaker is designed to handle 40 amps in a 77 degree temperature environment; it de-rates from 40% to 80% at 200 degrees, and it de-rates even lower at higher temperatures. Given that you're in Arizona, and the breaker is located right near the good 'ol 350 degree (or hotter) oil cooler, these things are quite prone to drop out. Mine only did it for moments at a time, but I'm sure that it isn't as hot here as it is in AZ. The heat boiling off of your oil cooler can keep the breaker in an open state once it gets hot enough to activate.

And your bike's issue is exactly the same as my bike's issue, except yours is on steroids.
 
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