Victory Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I actually think I have a warped front break rotor. i have no idea how or why as I only have 22K miles on the bike. I don't ride the brakes and I have never damaged the rotors. But it feels like I have a warped rotor and it has gotten significantly worse over the last few months. so much so that I really can't use the front brakes without the bigtime up/down wobble.

Any other ideas on what it might be?

On another note dealing with brakes, from time to time when braking (rear braking) if I hit a bump at the same time I lose ALL braking and go into freewheel. If I let off the brake pedal and reapply I have brakes again. This has happened 4-5 times over the last several months. But it litterally disengages the brakes, certainly not everytime but enough to have wonder as to what is happening. These bikes don't have linked brakes (that I know of) so the two issues are related.

Any ideas on what the lose of braking is tied to? Anyone had similar experience? It sux as my closest Vic dealer is 100 miles away. So I either gotta make a 400 mile trip to take it and pick it back up or figure it out myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you clean the floaters, and rap them with a rubber hammer. You will most likely free them up, and it will brake without shudder.
You need to look at your rear pads, and wheel bearings
Ok, so cleaning the front rotors and hitting them with a rubber mallet might help the front shudder? Is that what I am reading? If so, any particular place to "rap" them.....lol

Stupid question, is "floater" a part or a typo for rotor?

Next are you saying rear pads or bearings might be the cause for brake lose when braking and hitting a bump? Bearings are good, i know that as I just had the rear off putting on new tire. Rear pads are worn, but still appeared to have pad left.

Just trying to understand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
372 Posts
Kevin is referring to the 'button' things that combine the inner and outer pieces of of the rotor together. They can get contamination under them and seize the 2 rotor pieces together where they no longer float. You should be able to spin all those buttons, at least with a pliers without much force.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
I wonder, re the rear brake's freewheeling over a bump, whether you're pressing on the rear brake pedal pretty hard, and the ABS is kicking in. That is -- or so it seems possible to me -- if you're near the threshold of the rear brake, when you hit a bump, you lose contact with the road and so there will be no force pushing the rear wheel around; when that happens, the braking force being applied might cause the rear wheel to lock up (while it's in the air)... and when that happens, the ABS might kick in, i.e., releasing the braking action for a fraction of a second. Follow me?

Just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
Just out of curiosity...

Victory uses floating rotors but do they combine these with fixed or floating calipers? Personally I've never even looked close enough at mine other than to tell you that they're still attached to the fork legs. If the calipers are floating as well then the pins on the OP's bike may very well be dry or corroded. College Station isn't exactly in the desert.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
13,318 Posts
The rotors float and the calipers are fixed or don't move.

You don't have to hit the rotors very hard to loosen them up

You never said if you have ABS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,088 Posts
...
You never said if you have ABS
...
VJ: his signature has his bike as "2012 Cross Country Tour (Sunset Red)." That came standard with ABS -- I have the same year, model, and color.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,776 Posts
Living on a long, nasty dirt road, my ABS will often kick in. It acts as described. If you were to hit the brakes hard at that time they will continue to stop you quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
383 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, learned something on the floaters.....didn't know they existed. Will take a look at that this weekend for the front issue.

As for the rear losing brakes when hitting a bump, Yea I could see the theory about the ABS kicking out or releasing but to be honest on the few times it has done it probably only half have been semi-hard braking. I got to thinking about this theory this am when I read it and that kinda makes some sense. But with that being said, I can just about make the situation happen Everyday I think and I am not hard braking at all. I live on a county road, at the end of the county road is a stop sign, every morning I stop at the sign. Before the stop sign. Before the sign is a bump in the road. Everytime I hit that bump (not a big bump) I momentarily lose braking and they WILL NOT work unless I let off the brake pedal and re-apply. And I am not braking hard at all.

Then I got to thinking about it and one at least one occassion I have lost braking when I down shift to first gear if I downshift while roling a bit to fast. As I coast to a stop sign or light I often downshift through the gears in rapid succession going back to first. From time to time I go into first while coasting a bit fast I guess and get a pretty big downshift clunk, that also causes the rear to momentarily lose braking; however, on that one or two times I regain brakes without having to release pedal and re-applying.....But then again that could still work on the ABS theory I guess......Beats the hell out of me. It has only happened a few times (mostly over the last oh 6 months I guess).

I will take a look at the front floaters and replace rear brakes. Anyone know a good place to buy brake pads?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
27 Posts
If you clean the floaters, and rap them with a rubber hammer. You will most likely free them up, and it will brake without shudder.
You need to look at your rear pads, and wheel bearings
Or try this. I just cleaned the bobbins or buttons on the front and back rotors. The way to do this is to get a narrow diameter bolt that will fit through the bobbins along with two washers and a wing nut, place a washer on either side of the bobbin and tighten it down with the wing nut and bolt. Now spray brake clean on the bobbin and tighten down the wing nut bolt until the bobbin begins to spin you will need to use a wrench or socket, this will free up the that bobbin. Repeat with all bobbins both front and back this should help or completely fix the warped disk. Either way the bike will handle better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,888 Posts
Or try this. I just cleaned the bobbins or buttons on the front and back rotors. The way to do this is to get a narrow diameter bolt that will fit through the bobbins along with two washers and a wing nut, place a washer on either side of the bobbin and tighten it down with the wing nut and bolt. Now spray brake clean on the bobbin and tighten down the wing nut bolt until the bobbin begins to spin you will need to use a wrench or socket, this will free up the that bobbin. Repeat with all bobbins both front and back this should help or completely fix the warped disk. Either way the bike will handle better.
That is slick. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,272 Posts
My front rotor was causing problems right from new off of the showroom floor. Still makes a horrible noise at times but I've never had a problem with the brakes. It's on my list for a closer look this winter.

When cleaning the buttons I use a square easy-out. Works great.

253953
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top