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I've been happy that even sitting for a month plug in tender and it's immediately going to green. Nothing draining battery much when sitting. Thought the keyless ignition might.

Hopefully your next battery lasts longer. Some just fail early.
 

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  • 10k mile service.
  • New air filter
  • New tires (dunlop elite 4, front and back). Had an Avon Cobra on the rear when I bought it. It was cupping badly, and the front was wobbling. I want more miles from a tire than that.
Took it out and rode it for awhile (175 wonderfully aimless miles around the back country hills around Austin). Weather's been weird this winter. A few cold days, but lots more ride-worthy days than I'm used to for December and January.
 

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Welp...I have did quite a few things.

1. Installed 30 pin connector
2. Connected CoolStream Duo
3. Swapped seats to Mustang Vintage Touring
4. Cut out a new license plate holder because my MC plate would not fit the factory
5. Installed Highway Bar LEDs
6. Installed Vic LED Headlight
7. Sold old exhaust (trioval) and replaces with Ragin Cajun and some Victory Tips
8. Installed Timing Wheel
9. Installed 1/4 turn throttle
10. Installed Cam and Derby covers
11*** Will be installing my cruise control kit.

Cam cover installed


New Lights Riveted in


New Highway Bar Lights installed


Exhaust Installed


Exhaust Tips Installed


Cut our my new license plate holder, then step drilled the 4holes (5 min job...dunno why anyone would by witchdoctors for $40-$50)


License Plate Mounted


1/4 Throttle installed (ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I HAVE EVER SEEN...damn bike should just come this way)
 

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Today I installed the WOLO Bad Boy Horn I got for Christmas. Pulled the faring, ran the wires from the battery and original horn through the harness up and under the faring.
Wow this horn is loud compared to the original!
 

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Replaced the front brake pads, Lyndall Gold 7175+ again. The last set lasted 10600 kms. The Oz made aftermarket 4 piston caliper on my 1990 1200 Sporty uses the same pads, so I get to recycle them if I change early.
 

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Today I installed the WOLO Bad Boy Horn I got for Christmas. Pulled the faring, ran the wires from the battery and original horn through the harness up and under the faring.
Wow this horn is loud compared to the original!
Inside fairing?
My used bike came with one there but wiring was messed up. Got that fixed. It's okay but the fairing limits the sound a bit.
 

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Inside fairing?
I've had my Stebel mounted both inside and outside of my fairing. Mine is currently living inside...I'm no sound engineer, but I found less than 1 decibel difference at 4 feet with an industrial grade test meter. Had it in there for 3 years now and still quite pleased. YMMV;)
 

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Inside fairing?
My used bike came with one there but wiring was messed up. Got that fixed. It's okay but the fairing limits the sound a bit.
I put mine inside the fairing along with the relay. I watched the video from Paul Pomerleau and basically did it the same way. There is all kinds of room
Horn under fairing you tube link
I did not install the diode as Paul recommends but I'm not seeing any issues either.

Even under the fairing the Horn is really loud, probably at least twice as loud as the stock horn, and gets much better attention. It's a good thing to do.
 

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Some times you just get a bad battery, it happens. I would charge it and have it load tested. Plus make sure you battery connections were good and tight. Did you wire anything in that may pull power with the key off. I did that once with a stereo on a 04 TC. Bought a new battery I didn't need.
 

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I put mine inside the fairing along with the relay. I watched the video from Paul Pomerleau and basically did it the same way. There is all kinds of room
Horn under fairing you tube link
I did not install the diode as Paul recommends but I'm not seeing any issues either.

Even under the fairing the Horn is really loud, probably at least twice as loud as the stock horn, and gets much better attention. It's a good thing to do.
I had installed several Stebels, on several bikes, before @Pauljp released his video (all of them great) on that.

I also didn't know I had a problem -- or at least a potential problem -- until around the time of that discussion (see My air horn install video ). If you press the horn button, take a look to see if your turn-signal indicator light(s) flash for a fraction of a second. I had never noticed that until I specifically looked for it (because you tend not to be glancing down when you use the horn).

And having noticed that momentary flash, I decided that it couldn't be good for the ECM, so I added that diode, as per Paul's video. So look down for that, and if you do manage to see a brief flash, think about whether that might not be so good for the electronics on the bike.

Now, one other point, for those interested. Sometime between Paul's horn video and the purchase of yet another Stebel for a post-XCT bike, I learned that there's an easier way to accomplish the back-EMF protection, i.e., without having to solder a diode across lugs.

That is, they make plenty of relays that way, if you know what to look for. The one I bought for that next bike, about two and a half years ago, is the Beuler BU5084W, from this place:


(The price hasn't changed in a couple years. And as you might have guessed, the shipping was slightly more expensive -- $4.00 -- than the relay, but it was still a reasonable total.)

Bottom lines: if you want to protect the electronics, I would (and did) go with Paul's advice. And if you want to take the easy way out, you can skip soldering a diode, via a relay with one built in. Oh, and make sure you use the correct terminals on these anti-spike relays, because it matters.
 

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I had installed several Stebels, on several bikes, before @Pauljp released his video (all of them great) on that.

I also didn't know I had a problem -- or at least a potential problem -- until around the time of that discussion (see My air horn install video ). If you press the horn button, take a look to see if your turn-signal indicator light(s) flash for a fraction of a second. I had never noticed that until I specifically looked for it (because you tend not to be glancing down when you use the horn).

And having noticed that momentary flash, I decided that it couldn't be good for the ECM, so I added that diode, as per Paul's video. So look down for that, and if you do manage to see a brief flash, think about whether that might not be so good for the electronics on the bike.

Now, one other point, for those interested. Sometime between Paul's horn video and the purchase of yet another Stebel for a post-XCT bike, I learned that there's an easier way to accomplish the back-EMF protection, i.e., without having to solder a diode across lugs.

That is, they make plenty of relays that way, if you know what to look for. The one I bought for that next bike, about two and a half years ago, is the Beuler BU5084W, from this place:


(The price hasn't changed in a couple years. And as you might have guessed, the shipping was slightly more expensive -- $4.00 -- than the relay, but it was still a reasonable total.)

Bottom lines: if you want to protect the electronics, I would (and did) go with Paul's advice. And if you want to take the easy way out, you can skip soldering a diode, via a relay with one built in. Oh, and make sure you use the correct terminals on these anti-spike relays, because it matters.
First I've seen any posts about this but I'm late to the Victory thing.

Thanks for the link, can't hurt to use one.
 

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Added black bag guards... (thanks @krazed22 ) :)

251039
 

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Rode to Tallahassee and back this weekend. 70’s and sun down there, then 60’s and rain back. I need better nighttime rain glasses....


Don’t take life too seriously. You will never get out of it alive.
 
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