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Going to get near 60 on Saturday so I'm changing oil airing up tires.
I hope to ride the first time since 2018. If I can ride anymore don't
know what I'll do. Sounds silly but true
 

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I replaced the IAC tubing on my 2010 Cross Roads because I had a lot of exhaust popping from the exhaust at idle and while shifting, on my last ride.

I purchased the tubing from Witchdoctors and installed it yesterday.

I will have to take the bike for a long ride to get the engine hot to see if the replacement helps. If not, the throttle body adapter will be next and I am not looking forward to that job. I checked the adapter while I had things pulled apart and it looked good but we all know they look much worse when removed from the engine.

Just before I put the old tubing in the garbage, I decided to check each of the three tubes for leaks be placing on end in my mouth and my finger over the opposite end. I sucked on the each tube then sealed the end with my tongue to hold the vacuum. I did find that one of the tubes would not hold the vacuum so I hope that is a good sign.

The good news is that the engine fired right up after I put everything back together.
Pardon my ignorance but what are the IAC tubes, I’m having some similar popping when shifting, hard on throttle prior to shifting and after, retuning my bike helped some. My engine is fairly modified so I expect some popping/backfires but I’d like to research these a bit more, couldn’t find them on Witchdoctors site. Thanks.
 

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Added an ez-pull clutch. It makes a big difference for how much my hands hurt on longer trips.
 

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Added an ez-pull clutch. It makes a big difference for how much my hands hurt on longer trips.
As much as I tried I could not dial in the EZ-Pull that i bought. I ended up taking it off the same day as I installed it. I figured if it was so sensitive that a half turn on the nut would go from grabbing with the clutch pulled to slipping when hard power supplied that I didn't need it.
What I ended up doing is using some cable lube then lubing both end lugs with Sil-Glyde.
Clutch is much easier to pull now.
 

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...What I ended up doing is using some cable lube then lubing both end lugs with Sil-Glyde.
Clutch is much easier to pull now.
How much of an improvement (% easier pull) would you estimate those efforts made?
 

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How much of an improvement (% easier pull) would you estimate those efforts made?
It's hard to say percentage since I did it several months ago. I can say it was a noticeable improvement. Is it as easy as my old V-Star 1100? No, but is is better than when I bought the XC.
When I first got my 2014 XC my first thought was that my left arm would become a Popeye arm because of the difficult squeeze.
 

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If you're thinking "hippie" you need to put the clippers away. ?
I was in that town (Maleny) one day about 10 years ago, looked around on the street at all the superannuated hippies, many of them mates of mine, and thought "I'll never get a job as Santa Claus in this town, too much competition.", went into a shop and bought the clippers, took them home and put a #2 over my head.
 

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Going to get near 60 on Saturday so I'm changing oil airing up tires.
I hope to ride the first time since 2018. If I can ride anymore don't
know what I'll do. Sounds silly but true
How did it go VisionJohny? Still smiling I hope.
 

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I replaced the IAC tubing on my 2010 Cross Roads because I had a lot of exhaust popping from the exhaust at idle and while shifting, on my last ride.

I purchased the tubing from Witchdoctors and installed it yesterday.

I will have to take the bike for a long ride to get the engine hot to see if the replacement helps. If not, the throttle body adapter will be next and I am not looking forward to that job. I checked the adapter while I had things pulled apart and it looked good but we all know they look much worse when removed from the engine.

Just before I put the old tubing in the garbage, I decided to check each of the three tubes for leaks be placing on end in my mouth and my finger over the opposite end. I sucked on the each tube then sealed the end with my tongue to hold the vacuum. I did find that one of the tubes would not hold the vacuum so I hope that is a good sign.

The good news is that the engine fired right up after I put everything back together.
UPDATE:
After about 390 miles, no more popping and the bike runs like new. Success.
 

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Swapped out the windvest 11inch windscreen for a v-stream N0700 12inch touring screen. I like the riding pocket much better now.

One oddity that I noticed when the windvest screen was on the bike: a vacuum developed that actually pushed me from behind when I was above about 60mph. Above 75, it was very strong. Strong enough that it altered the riding stability of the bike, and not for the better. When I rode in rain, drops would actually be sucked to the back side of the windscreen. I'd have to clean bug splatter from the back of the screen (!).

All told, when the windvest screen was on the bike, it felt as jittery as a 400 pound machine, rather than a rock-stable 800 pound machine. It'd bounce all over the place riding in a head wind or a cross wind. Hard to describe, and very weird to experience when riding.

It took me awhile to actually narrow it down to the screen, because I made a lot of changes to the bike around the same time as I started noticing the instability creeping in.

The v-stream windscreen has corrected that. No more vacuum into the pocket, and the bike is again as stable at speed as it should be. There was a strong cross wind on the day I took the bike out to test the new windscreen, and I barely noticed it. That same cross wind would have given me quite a fight for control if the windvest had been on the bike.

I also noticed that, while the windvest screen did indeed produce a pocket of pretty still air, the air right above that pocket (which happened to hit the exact spot of the top intake vent on my helmet) was very dirty and turbulent. That led to a fair amount of helmet shake, and a lot of noise if my vent was open, or if I rode with my helmet visor up. I like riding with my visor up on hot days, to feel some breeze on my face.

The v-stream corrected that as well. I'm happy.

:)
 

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When I combined an EZ-Pull with a Barnett cable, the clutch pull was like that of a 250.
 

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Swapped out the windvest 11inch windscreen for a v-stream N0700 12inch touring screen. I like the riding pocket much better now...
Have the factory Klok Werks windshield on my CC and while it is a definite improvement over the stock shield, there is definitely room for additional improvement. The shape/concept of the VStream looks interesting. Only concern I have is the height of the model you chose. Their Low Touring model seems to be closer to the height of the Klok Werks, which allows me to see over the top. That leads to the question of whether you believe the improvement can be at least somewhat achieved by the basic shape or is the added height of the center section necessary to achieve the improvement?
 

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Have the factory Klok Werks windshield on my CC and while it is a definite improvement over the stock shield, there is definitely room for additional improvement. The shape/concept of the VStream looks interesting. Only concern I have is the height of the model you chose. Their Low Touring model seems to be closer to the height of the Klok Werks, which allows me to see over the top. That leads to the question of whether you believe the improvement can be at least somewhat achieved by the basic shape or is the added height of the center section necessary to achieve the improvement?
I'd attribute a good amount of the improvement to the basic shape of the screen. The air vent is much larger, which I think reduces the tendency toward vacuum, and the outward shape of the main air-moving portion of the shield seems pretty well-engineered to move the main burst of air away from the rider.

I'm 5' 10", and I see over the 12" shield with no trouble at all. I gave serious consideration to the low touring model also, but ended up going with the higher one in the end. I have no regrets with that choice. :)
 
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