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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am on the hunt for a place to mount a fuzeblock and there seems to be a decent spot behind the rt side cover except for plastic tab that could be a wire loom guide ….. Can someone enlighten me if there is a good reason not to cut the plastic tab off to make room for the fuzeblock ? Thank you
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By the marking it would appear that a purge canister for a California model would go there. Does not look like its being used for your bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
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By the marking it would appear that a purge canister for a California model would go there. Does not look like its being used for your bike.
Nicely done ! I think you have a plausible explanation - thank you!
 

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That fuze block fuse holder looks like a great device. Please post what you think of it after the install.
 
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The other tip is the connector to the left, looks like the CA connector that is also unused on my bike. :)

The fuze block has been around for a while. Nice self contained unit but pricy. I don't have one but thought about it. I really don't have enough added to bike to need it. It would be easier access than battery area under side cover like that. I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for sharing that info that the US and CA bikes are similar with respect to that plug - I have been tripped up by differences before :) It's winter here for 8 months of the year so what I don't spend on riding and maintenance I convert into therapy projects for the winters :) I have been accumulating stuff for this XC for several years and finally decided to make it a priority. I have just enough stuff that I figure the effort of the fuzeblock would eventually pay off. The way Vic hides fuses on the ends of connectors is just silly in m y opinion, but again, electrical is all but black magic to me. My first lesson on this bike was when I tried to add an led driving/turnsignal linear strip to the forged bar and learned how intolerant the canbus system is to inrush currents :) A trailer isolator solved that problem. I am 60 and I seem to feel less smart as the days pass but I try to keep learning new tricks....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
According to the below video, this is the spot to mount the Victory Keyless system. You should be fine cutting the tab, as it serves no other purpose.
I made a discovery in different lighting - the tab location is labelled ‘purge tank’ 😎 which I take to be the evap tank one of the other posters mentioned - you can see ‘purge’ to the left of my mounting plate
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Post pics when you get done installing the box. Looks like a good choice of location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As requested - turned out alright. JB welded an aluminum carrier plate and then used Velcro to hold the fuzeblock in place, which allows me to swing it out of the way to access the main fuse block. Couldn’t bring myself to write direct on the cover …. :cool:
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What is JTD?
 

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Or is that "STD" with a poorly written "S"?
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What is JTD?
You can’t make this up - always wanted a set of JTD lowers with the integrated lights - waited too long and could no longer get them with lights… sigh. Buy a set of Darlas cause they are nice pieces of work. Talk with John of JTD and he says if you find the lights I can make you a set of lowers prep’d for them but the lights have been discontinued for years… Go on the hunt a
nd find a pair in a Canadian warehouse and now have the enviable problem of two sets of driving lights ! Good grief. Fuze block shows Darla and JTD lights on separate circuits…
I bought the JTD lowers in the hopes they help with buffeting though I prefer the open look of the bike without them…
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I know of the lowers. Didn't know they had lights to fit.

Darla are nice. I added set last year. My third set of driving lights to settle on those and I'll keep em. :)
I still need to sell my discontinued Kuryakyn lights when I get round to it. I have to find all the parts to it. I think they were on bike six months bought used with them and off they went immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I
I know of the lowers. Didn't know they had lights to fit.

Darla are nice. I added set last year. My third set of driving lights to settle on those and I'll keep em. :)
I still need to sell my discontinued Kuryakyn lights when I get round to it. I have to find all the parts to it. I think they were on bike six months bought used with them and off they went immediately.
The light supplier for the JTD lowers stop making the light and JTD had to transition to a non lit version. The lights are no where near the quality of the darla.

I mounted my Darlas in a bit of an unconventional location, as far as I can tell - can I ask where you mounted yours?
 

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The light supplier for the JTD lowers stop making the light and JTD had to transition to a non lit version. The lights are no where near the quality of the darla.

I mounted my Darlas in a bit of an unconventional location, as far as I can tell - can I ask where you mounted yours?
Bought the "standard" fender mount.

It's only going to be in my way when I do a fork oil change. I had mounted lights on my round bars but it was causing me clearance issues and I just didn't like having them stick out wider than anything else on bike.
Fender mount I still get the 3 points of light that I prefer for daytime visibility and the Darla are damn bright at full on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Bought the "standard" fender mount.

It's only going to be in my way when I do a fork oil change. I had mounted lights on my round bars but it was causing me clearance issues and I just didn't like having them stick out wider than anything else on bike.
Fender mount I still get the 3 points of light that I prefer for daytime visibility and the Darla are damn bright at full on.
Fair enough - do you notice any issues with the lights being mounted to the 'bouncing wheel' vs the suspended bike?
 

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The wheel doesn't really bounce. Suspension keeps it firmly planted. I had the same thought initially but the forks and fairing move much more than the fender/tire does on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The wheel doesn't really bounce. Suspension keeps it firmly planted. I had the same thought initially but the forks and fairing move much more than the fender/tire does on the road.
Interesting and that makes sense - thanks for the first hand experience
 
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