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Discussion Starter #1
What is the wattage rating on the stock trunk speakers? I have a trunk from the same year as my bike so 2011 and am putting in a amp and wondering if I can simply connect the trunk speakers in while I am "playing" with the set up. The amp will be pushing 50w RMS to the rears in the 4 channel configuration and I don't want to blow the speakers.

NOTE: I will be replacing the trunk speakers eventually but I only use the trunk about once every 2 or 3 months so there is no hurry in getting the HCX 130's for the trunk right away.
 

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Don't know for sure but the kickers are only 25 watts. I'm searching for something in the 50 watt range but shallow depth so I don't have to cut the inner. I have a Hawgwired amp laying around I'll use to power them.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't know for sure but the kickers are only 25 watts. I'm searching for something in the 50 watt range but shallow depth so I don't have to cut the inner. I have a Hawgwired amp laying around I'll use to power them.
Ah! then the originals are likely the same... VERY low power 25w. As far as the trunk goes, others have done some creative things. one of which I plan on attempting which is to "raise" the speaker itself out of the cavity. Normally you would have the flange/mounting point of the speaker flush with the mounting bracket. However, I believe that some have put a spacer (like a couple of nuts) between the speaker's flange and the mounting point in the trunk to "raise" it away from the rear of the cavity. I don't know how far that concept can be carried but depending on the space between the front of the speaker and the metal grill that protects it, one might be able to raise a speaker sufficiently enough to permit a significantly larger speaker in there. Just an idea, have not had the time to see how it might work. If you have more time than me, let me know how it works cheers
 

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Just remember because the AMP can send send 50W doesn't mean that is what it is sending. All you have to do is adjust the fade to the rear so the rear volume is lower. The wattage is a function of the volume.

You can run a 500W amp on a 25W speaker as long as you keep the volume low. The bigger thing to match is the impedance (ohms)
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Just remember because the AMP can send send 50W doesn't mean that is what it is sending. All you have to do is adjust the fade to the rear so the rear volume is lower. The wattage is a function of the volume.

You can run a 500W amp on a 25W speaker as long as you keep the volume low. The bigger thing to match is the impedance (ohms)
I believe that it is not VOLUME but rather it is the GAIN setting on the amp that can be "tuned" down to compensate for lower wattage speakers but this was intended to be a simple thread asking if anyone knew the actual ratings on the speakers themselves rather than a comprehensive tutorial resistance or balancing the amps output to speakers. Let's leave that to the other gazillion (rounded off.. LOL) threads that already have that covered.
 

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Just for people who may see this I just want to clarify:

Gain is only a measure of how much amplification is being done to the input signal, you still have volume control to prevent overdriving the speakers.

http://whatis.techtarget.com/definition/amplification-factor-gain

The correct way to tune for gain is with an osciliscope and what clipping really is over driving of the amplifier to the point where it can no longer reproduce the entire waveform.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clipping_(audio)

Now the gain can be turned so high that it overdrives the speakers at a given volume and people tend to use the gain to prevent that it is not the technical use of gain.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Kingsrule5 aka Don Quizote
You are more than welcome to start your own thread on whatever imaginary (tuning) windmills you feel may need to be addressed.cheers
 

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I want to say I read somewhere awhile back that they were 35w. I have been trying to find where I read it, but seems that I didn't save it.
 

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It looks like somebody is trying to start a peeing contest in regards to audio knowledge. :ltr: I must've missed the question asking for a bunch of technical data... I thought someone just wanted to know what the wattage was on the rear speaker? :crzy:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It looks like somebody is trying to start a peeing contest in regards to audio knowledge. :ltr: I must've missed the question asking for a bunch of technical data... I thought someone just wanted to know what the wattage was on the rear speaker? :crzy:
B-I-N-G-O thumb up
 

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It looks like somebody is trying to start a peeing contest in regards to audio knowledge. :ltr: I must've missed the question asking for a bunch of technical data... I thought someone just wanted to know what the wattage was on the rear speaker? :crzy:
Actually was just trying to clarify that there are other issues at play and try to help inform people beyond the basics and of how interactions are actually occurring which can be used to find other workarounds. Sorry for trying to share knowledge and expand the discussion.
 

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Actually was just trying to clarify that there are other issues at play and try to help inform people beyond the basics and of how interactions are actually occurring which can be used to find other workarounds. Sorry for trying to share knowledge and expand the discussion.
As an audio guy myself, I can tell he knows exactly what he is doing. Just a simple RMS wattage on the rear speakers would do ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
As an audio guy myself, I can tell he knows exactly what he is doing. Just a simple RMS wattage on the rear speakers would do ;)
Apologies for leaving this thread for so long. I was probably using the (now antiquated) analog Oscilloscopes before Kingsrule5 was even born. I did Heathkit stuff as a youth & even used Fluke meters in my early networking days some 30 years ago. No need to take this thread into that dark tunnel of the ways to protect speakers. I know all that which is why I was simply asking for the ...

"actual rating on the stock speakers that came as components in the factory trunk in a 2011 XC"

...so that I could do perform the voltage measurements to ensure that the speakers would remain functional once 50w's were sent to them in a future configuration.

For the time being, I have left the rear wiring and all the connections from the tuner connected through the existing factory wiring hardness to the rear speakers and only set up the front with a JL Audio HX280/4 amplifier running in a bridge configuration providing 100w (12.5v) to 140w (14.4v) to the front pair of Hertz HCX 165s rated @ 100w to 200w (max)
 
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