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Discussion Starter #1
I bought new tires and now need to take the wheels off of my XCT to take them to a shop to change the tires. The service manual describes the process but there are four questions I have.

1) It appears that a large Allen wrench is needed to remove the front axle. Does anyone know what size this Allen wrench is or have another way of removing the front axle?

2) The service manual has a section on front wheel removal but I did not see a section on front wheel installation. Am I just missing this? If so, can you tell me the section number for this?

3) The service manual says to remove either the left or right caliper from the front wheel before taking the wheel off. Why is this? Won't the wheel simply drop down out of both calipers when the axle is removed and then slide back up into both calipers during installation?

4) The service manual says that the rear axle tensioning/adjusting bolts do NOT need to be loosened to remove the axle. How can this be? Won't they be pulling tightly against the belt and under this force, can the axle be slid out?

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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5/8" or 16mm. A while back, someone posted a cheap 5/8" hex item (I don't remember what it was) he got at a hardware store. Maybe you can do a search or someone will chime in and tell us what it was. It was so simple--just stick it in the axle and put a 5/8" wrench on it.
 

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I haven't pulled my XC tire yet, but what I've found works well is finding a bolt with the right size head (5/8 should be a 7/16 bolt) and either welding a nut on it or using 2 nuts and jamming them together, then put your wrench on the inside nut. As for the caliper, you'll probably have to remove one because the width of the rim and/or tire is wider than the distance between the calipers so it won't just drop out

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk
 

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There is at least 2 sizes of axle bolts on the XC. I lent MAGS my 5/8" hex which fits my 13's axle and it was too big for his axle nut.
 

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depends on year, 13+ gets a 14mm, older gets a 16
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, folks. I just measured my axle and the Allen "hole" is a 16 mm or 5/8". I will look for a coupling nut.

Anyone have any thoughts on my questions #2 and #4?'

G'day,

Vinish
 

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I put a car tire on the back a couple of weeks ago, I didn't make a video because it would have been too long, but I am in the process of making one for the front tire so stay tuned for that.

The adjuster nuts on the back don't have to be loosened, it is probably better to leave them alone so the wheel stays aligned exactly as it is now when you put it back together.
There is enough play in the belt that the axle can be removed easily, then the wheel can move forward enough to remove the belt.
Once the axle is off I slid the brake caliper mount off so the tire can pass easily between it and the belt guard on the other side. No bolts to remove on the caliper, the bracket just slides off.

Personally I remove the two front calipers because I also like to clean and inspect them at the same time.
In my upcoming video I show you the coupler nut and the bolt with the two jam nuts that you can use if you can't find the proper hex head socket.
My 2014 XCT has a 14mm front axle which translates to 3/8" coupler, the earlier models uses a 16mm axle which is 5/8".

When you remove the wheels there will be spacers on the rim where the axles goes through, they are different sizes, make sure you remember which ones go where. On the front the long one goes on the left side.

Assembly is just as easy, the only thing you need to know are the torque values. Your service manual should have these.
 

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Thanks, folks. I just measured my axle and the Allen "hole" is a 16 mm or 5/8". I will look for a coupling nut.



Anyone have any thoughts on my questions #2 and #4?'



G'day,



Vinish

service manual has specs for install, unbolt and remove axle, lift front end, wheel comes out, its easier if you pull calipers, 2 bolts, easy, install is opposite, no need to touch rear adjusters to remove axle or wheel, unbolt lower shock/link bolt, take out axle, lift, remove rear wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks, Pauljp. I figured the front wheel install would not be a problem but was surprised that I could not find a specific section on this in the service manual. For the wheel spacers, does it only matter that they go on the correct side of the wheel or does the orientation of each individual spacer matter? In other words, does the portion of a spacer that was against the wheel HAVE to be against the wheel in the reinstall or can this portion be "flipped" and go against the fork?

G'day,

Vinish
 

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put it together the way it came apart and you will be good
 

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Thanks, Pauljp. I figured the front wheel install would not be a problem but was surprised that I could not find a specific section on this in the service manual. For the wheel spacers, does it only matter that they go on the correct side of the wheel or does the orientation of each individual spacer matter? In other words, does the portion of a spacer that was against the wheel HAVE to be against the wheel in the reinstall or can this portion be "flipped" and go against the fork?

G'day,

Vinish
The spacers are just bushings, so it doesn't matter which end goes against the wheel, but the lengths are different so you have to pay attention to which side of the wheel they go on.
What I do is when you remove the axle, put the bushings back on the axle so you don't get them mixed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Pauljp,

Thanks again. On my HD Softail, the bushings/spacers have some small triangular notches on one side so they are not completely symmetrical. I don't know whether it is necessary but I have always taken care to install them on the correct side of the wheel and in the same orientation. It is good to know I don't have to worry about orientation with the XCT bushings/spacers.

dtmmil, I agree that it is easy to reverse the front wheel removal process for reinstallation. I was just surprised that this operation was missing from the service manual. They usually seem to include even simple things like this in the service manuals.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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Harley has grooves on there spacers so you know what side of wheel they go on.
You'll find out quick if you put the spacer on the wrong side. Caliper and wheel will not ling up right.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
On my way to workout today, I stopped at Home Depot to get the proper connecting nut. I brought along a 5/8" six-point socket to verify that the connecting nut would fit into the socket without too much freeplay. I tried every connecting nut they had and none of them would fit. The closest was the 7/16" connecting nut. This was just a tiny bit too large to fit into the 5/8" socket. I learned that the connecting nuts are sized not by their outer diameter but, rather, by the size of they threaded rod that screws into the nut. I decided to go look at Ace hardware and if their connecting nuts also did not fit, then I would buy the 7/16" and grind down all six sides by a smidge to achieve the necessary fit.

So off I went to Ace. Their 7/16" connecting nut fit perfectly into the 5/8" socket. Go figure. It was dang expensive at $4.29 compared to the one at Home Depot which was only about $1.89 but still cheaper than a 16 mm or 5/8" Allen wrench socket. So I'm all set to go. Wish me luck. It will be wheels off starting at 5:00 tonight after work.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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Hi to all. Thinking of removing the front wheel from my old fossil 2000 V92C. The hexhead axle bolt is between a 13 and 14mm. I am very surprised! Can this be an SAE? The bolt looks as new, not wallowed out (Here in Georgia we say "wallerd"). I have scoured my repair manual, to no avail. I just bought a set of set of metric hex heads sockets 9 thru 15.

Yes, I am a newbie.
 

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13 mm = 1/2".
 

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With very few exceptions, everything on Vics is metric. One exception is the clutch cable adjuster behind the engine.
 
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