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Got a 05 Hammer 3000 miles. Is it to soon to go to a full syn. oil? told to wait till at least 5000. Any thoughts?:cool:
 

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Got a 05 Hammer 3000 miles. Is it to soon to go to a full syn. oil? told to wait till at least 5000. Any thoughts?:cool:

i went after my first maintence check. 48,000 miles later , no problems.
 

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Got a 05 Hammer 3000 miles. Is it to soon to go to a full syn. oil? told to wait till at least 5000. Any thoughts?:cool:

Thoughts are... Change to Synthetic at your First Service... I did mine at 660 miles..

There really is no 'break-in' period any more, those days are years gone by. The initial drain is to get machining and casting debris from the engine.


Bob S.
 

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not true, there is a break in period, read your owners manual, i just bought an 09 vegas and the first 500 miles are critical, the oil & filter is changed at the 500 mile service, ive ranfull synthetic in all my vehicles, specially motorcycles, with exceptional results, go to the aimsoil web site they did some very interesting comparisons on oil you can see how victory oil stacks up against the other leading oils and decide for yourself.

steve
 

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not true, there is a break in period, read your owners manual, i just bought an 09 vegas and the first 500 miles are critical, the oil & filter is changed at the 500 mile service, ive ranfull synthetic in all my vehicles, specially motorcycles, with exceptional results, go to the aimsoil web site they did some very interesting comparisons on oil you can see how victory oil stacks up against the other leading oils and decide for yourself.

steve
Steve... The initial service (500 miles) is to get machining and casting debris from the engine..

You could put a Synthetic in before it even leaves the dealer, but it is a waste of money as you are going to dump it as well to get the debris out.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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Be careful going full synthetic.

Remember that our engines and tranny share the same oil. There are a lot of people that use Amsoil and Mobil 1 etc with no problems but there are just as many others that have clutch slippage with those oils.
 

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Be careful going full synthetic.

Remember that our engines and tranny share the same oil. There are a lot of people that use Amsoil and Mobil 1 etc with no problems but there are just as many others that have clutch slippage with those oils.
The problems arise when the wrong oil is put in or has been used previously which may cause clutch slippage or chatter. We have noticed the problem in Vics especially when Mobil 1 Automotive is used previously.

For some reason, many people feel that they can use any oil and don't know what Specs to look for.

The Specs you should look for IF for some Strange Reason you wish to run an auto/diesel oil are API SG/SH ... A Higher API may be used IF... read again.. IF it has a JASO MA Rating...

An API of SJ, SL or SM DO NOT Automatically Supercede SG/SH.

Auto oils with an SH alone or a Diesel oil with a CH or higher should be avoided if they do not have a JASO MA or MA 2 Rating.

ALL AMSOIL Motorcycle oils have a JASO MA 2 Rating which is the highest clutch performance rating available today.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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break in

Hi Bob , the owners manual directs the owner of a new victory .... and i quote,

during the first 500 critical engine parts require special wear-in procedures so they seat and mate properly,

0 to 90 miles do not operate the motorcycle extended periods of time at throttle positions above 1/3 throttle

90 to 300 miles do not operate for extended periods of time above 1/2 throttle

300 to 500 miles do not operate for extended periods of time above 3/4 throttle

im not argueing synthetic v/s simi-synthetic or dino oil , I personally have used syn in all my cars and bikes, and i do use aimsoil no complaints only way to go.

and you do have a valid point re any residue re casting cuttings, however the instructions from victory allows the rings to mate and trans gears ect to " work in " mate.

best regards, steve
 

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I just bought a Vegas Jackpot with 2600 miles on it. I couldn't find out what oil had been run in it. Is it true that IF it had been previously serviced with full synthetic, I could harm it by using semi-synthetic now?

Thanks!
 

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I just bought a Vegas Jackpot with 2600 miles on it. I couldn't find out what oil had been run in it. Is it true that IF it had been previously serviced with full synthetic, I could harm it by using semi-synthetic now?

Thanks!
You can use any oil at any time as long as it is Motorcycle Specific OR has an API SG/SH Rating. Whether petroleum, Synthetic, Hydro-cracked or a blend.

An oil with a Higher API Rating can be used if it has a JASO MA Rating.

REGARDLESS of Brand, Synthetic or petroleum, use a Motorcycle Specific oil with a JASO MA Rating, better yet, MA 2, but Never MB.

If anyone tells you there is no difference between auto/diesel oils and Motorcycle Specific oils, they have been misinformed and are passing on bad information.

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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Thanks, Bob. Another question: I live down in Texas where we get 100+ temps for a lot of the summer. I know the manual recomends 20W-40 viscosity. Will the 10w-40 synthetic provide enough protection in our grueling summer heat or should I consider a 20W-50 for the summer months?
 

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I have customers that have had major clutch slippage with Amsoil and Rotella after changing from Victory Oil. Victory Oil by the way is a SEMI synthetic and Victory only recommends SEMI synthetics. FYI they and I went through an Amsoil dealer and got the correct oil for the model bike.

Saying that, I also have customers that have had NO problems running Amsoil or Rotella.

There is a Victory owner in the latest Victory Riders Magazine that has 200,000 miles on his Vic and runs Amsoil exclusively.
 

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Thanks, Bob. Another question: I live down in Texas where we get 100+ temps for a lot of the summer. I know the manual recomends 20W-40 viscosity. Will the 10w-40 synthetic provide enough protection in our grueling summer heat or should I consider a 20W-50 for the summer months?
10W-40 and 20W-40 are the same viscosity at operating temp. The difference is at cold start where the 10W- provides better lubrication than a 20W.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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I have customers that have had major clutch slippage with Amsoil and Rotella after changing from Victory Oil. Victory Oil by the way is a SEMI synthetic and Victory only recommends SEMI synthetics. FYI they and I went through an Amsoil dealer and got the correct oil for the model bike.

Saying that, I also have customers that have had NO problems running Amsoil or Rotella.

There is a Victory owner in the latest Victory Riders Magazine that has 200,000 miles on his Vic and runs Amsoil exclusively.
It was the first Victory to go 100,000 and did it with AMSOIL and the First to go 200,000 also with AMSOIL.

The clutch slippage problems are due to previously used oils. Usually the common denominator is Mobil 1 Automotive oil was used..

Why anyone would use an oil not designed for a wet clutch to save a couple bucks on a change is beyond me.

AMSOIL M/C oils have a JASO MA 2 Rating. The highest clutch performance rating available so the slippage is definitely not from AMSOIL.

I'd be curious as to what oil your "Dealer" came up with as none of the blend or Hydro-Cracked products from AMSOIL are recommended by corporate that I am aware of. That being said, I will be looking at Specs this afternoon.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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I also have used amsoil exclusively in my harley wet clutch with no problems, victory , like all m.c. manufactures specifies what type of oil to use in there m.c. jaso ma .... 20W40 if using 30W40 or 20W50 either would present no problem as the 30W would flow quicker = protection and in the case of 20W50 when the temps increased the oil viscosity would still be within specs.

also I like the way Bob described oil and filters as...

Oil, is the Lifeblood of your engine. The oil filter, is the Kidney that keeps it clean.

well put, and accurate.

steve
 

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The clutch slippage problems are due to previously used oils. Usually the common denominator is Mobil 1 Automotive oil was used..

I've tried to not flame Amsoil in these threads and I take your statement as a personal attack on my knowledge and experience and since you are outright making a very incorrect statement to make sales and boost your product I have a problem with that. So I will talk from my experience which includes DOZENS of customer bikes from 2000 to present models and just let the pieces settle where they may.

MY customers that have insisted on Amsoil ALL went from Victory Oil to Amsoil. The MAJORITY and I would say 90% experience clutch slippage WITH Amsoil. They switched back to Victory oil and within 100 miles the clutch slippage was gone.

Plain and simple Victory Oil was formulated to work with a wet clutch. It is a SEMI synthetic and it also aids in the cooling of the engine. With Victory Oil you don't have to worry about the weight regardless of climate. Why? Simply because it was made FOR the Victory engine.

Granted the owners manual says only 20W-40 or equivalent . Why risk it when the oil was designed for the engine and clutch and it is the life blood of the engine?
 

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No personal attack on anything from me, but sure feels like one from you directed toward me... Victory (Polaris) does not manufacture the oil, it goes out for bid so you never know which company may be making it from year to year.

The clutch slippage is not being caused by the AMSOIL if the M/C Specific oil was used.

As for me trying to "Boost" my product, there is no need. I sell The Best oil and filtration on the planet and I have Since 1984. With my prices, It cost me more money to sell to the Forums than I make. I enjoy helping people.

Common sense would dictate that if AMSOIL works in so many other Victory's and other Motorcycles as well, that the problem is not with AMSOIL. The oil is not smart enough to tell itself that it will work in 99% of Vic's and not the other 1%.

There is either a mechanical problem or the wrong oil is or has been used.

No magic, just practical analysis.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best


Bob
 

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gentlemen, seems like were getting a little contentious , for no real reason,

I have a suggestion, I have 700 miles on my new 09 Vegas, bone stock, the 500 mile service was completed at the dlr using Victory oil, and filter I had intended to switch to Amsoil and filter at 2000 miles , if some one wants to pony up the oil and filter Ill do it now and keep everyone informed on this forum? i live in So. Calif. so we don't have any real down time as far as riding goes, weather can be 20 in the mountains in the winter and 105 in the valleys and desert regions in the summer.
like I posted , i personally used amsoil in my harley eng, primary, and transmission [ evo engine] with no prob,

any takers ?

best regards to all

steve
 

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Victory (Polaris) does not manufacture the oil, it goes out for bid so you never know which company may be making it from year to year.
Not true, Victory oil is and has been blended and manufactured by Lubetech, it is not put out to bid as of the last discussion I had with a Victory engineer http://www.lube-tech.com/custom-brands/

The clutch slippage is not being caused by the AMSOIL if the M/C Specific oil was used.
Yes it was, you failed to read the previous post and I can point you to threads on The Victory Motorcycle Club site where they have documented the same issue.

I'm new to Victory and this surprised me as well but in pushing the questions and talking to people directly (off net) it's obvious something is unique with the Victory package as clutch slippage has been an issue with Amsoil 20W50 and 10W40 MC oil as well as Mobil 1 V-Twin and 4T racing MC oil. In every case, switching back to the Victory oil cleared the problem is a few hundred miles. I don't have an explanation but I do have the observations. It seems to have become more of a problem with the 106 motors which may point out a deficiency in the clutch package itself but since it seems to work fine with Victory oil I imagine it would be hard to prove.
 
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