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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I decided to modify my stock exhaust to make the exhaust note "respectable" at least. So for $0 I now can hear my exhaust but it's not unbearable straight pipes. I simply took the mufflers off, cut them in half with a cut-off wheel, removed the middle baffle plate and welded them back together. MUCH better and I figure I saved myself $700. And best thing is I can still get the fluted tips. The mufflers still have the baffling in them but there is a straight shot through them.

Worth every cent. ;)

Derrick
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Yesterday the wife got me a set of fluted tips for the exhaust. VERY nice accent. But, I feel sorry for anyone who put these on following the instructions. The instructions say to pull the entire muffler and some of the plastic trim off to put these one. It actually only needs a 10mm wrench. AND you need a saw that the instructions don't mention to cut off the black portion of the stock '12 slash tips. If I didn't already have the tools and thought this was a simple bolt on when I bought them, then got home to read those instruction, I would have been P*SSED!

So, in summary, you need a 10mm wrench, some type of metal cutting tool, and a lighter to burn the instructions to install thee tips!!

Derrick
 

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Neat. I am a modder as well. I just did the Thrush muffler mod. So far I am liking it a lot. Great sound and it runs just the same. I did not have a remap done nor add a fuel controller. I might add one if I eventualy open up the air box.

My MC was bare stock with stock map. If I am right it really feels like it is running cooler..........

How is yours running with the opened up exhaust?

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Much better throttle response. It does pop every so often when decelerating as I expect it needs more fuel at idle. But I love it. It's nice to actually be able to hear the bike, but not even close to the annoying decibels of a harley or straight pipes.

Derrick
 

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I posted on another site that I did this mod and a few guys are saying I am being cheap for not taking it to the dealer for a remap or Dyno check................ I did not reply to that issue but just because I did not spend a lot of money on my exhaust does not make me cheap. If there was the slightest indicator it was running worse I would take it in but it runs better, I am sure. So, I think we are on the same page. I think it runs cooler, still fast as heck and I am not seeing any poping, backfire or acceleration lags......

I am glad it is working for you. After a little work isn't it nice to hear the Vision sound like it should.

Good Job!

Bill
 

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I posted on another site that I did this mod and a few guys are saying I am being cheap for not taking it to the dealer for a remap or Dyno check................ I did not reply to that issue but just because I did not spend a lot of money on my exhaust does not make me cheap. If there was the slightest indicator it was running worse I would take it in but it runs better, I am sure. So, I think we are on the same page. I think it runs cooler, still fast as heck and I am not seeing any poping, backfire or acceleration lags......

I am glad it is working for you. After a little work isn't it nice to hear the Vision sound like it should.

Good Job!

Bill
If your happy, who cares what they think. I would not wast the money either if all is well.
 

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Thanks CB, I actually talked to a Victory dealer when I was in South Carolina and he told me he heard a Thrush set up with no remap and it seemed fine. He told me they did muffler mods all the time with no change in the air fuel mix..........

On the internet you can ask 10 guys about something and get a 50/50 split of opinions. When the dealer gave me that feedback I decided to try it. My results were good so Im happy.

Again thanks, dont want to hijack the thread but all good exhaust mods have a discussion at some point about A/F mix..... I just think until a guy changes the air box he is probably OK. Anyhow, if I do anything about my A/F mix I think I would buy Lloyds controller.

Bill
 

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I'm betting those "experts" pay to have their oil changed. :rolleyes:

Do you have any pictures maybe before and during the mod?
 

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By modifying the stock exhaust to make more noise you pretty much just de-tuned the bike. Probably introduced a loss of low end grunt at least.

Sometimes you get what you pay for...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Absolutely no loss in low in grunt. In fact i have to say that's where the largest gains are. And as for the re-map, unless significant changes are made to intake/exhaust, the remap will only truly affect idle and full throttle conditions. Within the learning limits of the computer, the computer will adjust A/F ratio (using the O2 sensors) to the correct values during part throttle operation. That''s why, for me, I only see any popping at closed throttle deceleration. That's the great thing about EFI.

I kept thinking about taking pictures, but didn't. It is pretty simple if you have a cutoff wheel, welder, and 3-4 hours of time. I got the idea from a post on utube from someone who did a similar mod. As I said, I determined to try it, and if I didn't like it, I'd go get an aftermarket exhaust. Good thing I did! Saved a LOT of money. AND it got me out in the garage for a morning which is hard to do since I sold my last project car.

Derrick
 

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I posted on another site that I did this mod and a few guys are saying I am being cheap for not taking it to the dealer for a remap or Dyno check................ I did not reply to that issue but just because I did not spend a lot of money on my exhaust does not make me cheap....

Bill
Hey bfisherman,

I am on that other site too. People definitely have opinions about everything. I like the sound of the Thrush and am considering it myself. Did you do the work yourself?
 

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I just put on the NESS big honkers and the twin sucker performance intake this week and I love the sound and the throttle response. Taking it in to remap once I can get a calibration card.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Absolutely no loss in low in grunt. In fact i have to say that's where the largest gains are. And as for the re-map, unless significant changes are made to intake/exhaust, the remap will only truly affect idle and full throttle conditions. Within the learning limits of the computer, the computer will adjust A/F ratio (using the O2 sensors) to the correct values during part throttle operation. That''s why, for me, I only see any popping at closed throttle deceleration. That's the great thing about EFI.

I kept thinking about taking pictures, but didn't. It is pretty simple if you have a cutoff wheel, welder, and 3-4 hours of time. I got the idea from a post on utube from someone who did a similar mod. As I said, I determined to try it, and if I didn't like it, I'd go get an aftermarket exhaust. Good thing I did! Saved a LOT of money. AND it got me out in the garage for a morning which is hard to do since I sold my last project car.

Derrick


Actually half_crazy is right. That's why yamaha uses the exup valve on thier exhaust, so you can get better low end torque. So I'm guessing your not able to lift the front wheel off the ground anymore. Damm!!!
 

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How's this:
Thrush Mod:

Need:
(2) #24205 Thrush Glass Pak Mufflers 2 ¼” in/out and 31” OAL
(6) 8 or 10mm Hex Bolts w/12 washers and Nyloc nuts
(1) Roll of Strapping Material
(12) 4” Pipe/Hose Clamps
(2) 1”sq tubing cut about 6” long and used as a spacer at the back bracket mount point.
(6) 2” Pipe Clamp Brackets
(2) 4” Resonator Tips 2 ¼” x 4” x 9”
Procedure:
Remove Lower Plastic Panels from both sides.
Remove Stock Exhaust pipes by loosening main clamp, and 6 mounting bolts (3 per side)
Once the stock exhaust is off you have to cut the straps that hold on the heat shields so you can reuse them with new pipe/hose clamps. I used 4", you will need 6 of them.
Mount the Thrush Mufflers using stock Header to Muffler Clamps.
Secure tail end of muffler with Pipe strap, or new muffler straps to the old locations. You will need new 8 or 10mm bolts as the originals are welded to the old pipes.
Once you have the pipes secured and clamped down tight, Install the Tips (whichever one's you decide to go with).
Install the stock heat shields over the new pipes using 6 Pipe Clamps (4")

That's pretty much it. Some of you that have done it might want to add steps I missed or a technique that you used that was different.

It took me about 4 hours. After your first ride, re-tighten the header to muffler clamp (while hot) to ensure there are no leaks. Make sure your tips are very tight, I actually safety wired mine to the frame so they wouldn't slide off with vibration over time.
 

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Well I don't know if I lost low end torque as it sure don't feel like it in the seat from my mod but I know without a doubt that I am still getting mid 40s on MPG, the bike SOUNDS like it should, nice low end rumble but nothing like my S1L1's on my TC and I DID add Lloydz 2nd upper air filter with no remap. The engine became more noticable with just the muffler mod, adding the filter finished the job and yes, it does seem to run cooler or my right leg has gotten used to the heat. It will set your butt back now where before it would lumber off the line and never really felt like it had any real Uuumpphhhh....

Looking at the 2011 muffler design, I chose to drill the exterior of the muffler tip, 7 - 1/2" holes after removing the black flange from the tip. NOT the center baffle which was removed on this thread. I read some 6, 7 and some 8 holes from differnt riders. Went down the middle with 7. The bike sounds and feels awsome and cost was at 100 bucks because I bought the filter.. Already had the drill bit. I get VERY few backfires, usually only if I drop off WOT to close. Downshifting has a little, subtle, no big pops or anything. Sounds almost identicle to my TC with has the Ness BigSucker, Stage 1 flash and S1L1 pipes which look about like the thrush I believe.

So, if you want to try something free, drill first... If you like it leave it. I would add the Lloydz filter if your doing any mod. As for rich lean, my pipe tips look about like my TC do, maybe a little more dark. I am about to pull the plugs as I wanted 1000 miles on the mod to see how they're looking. Doing it RIGHT is a fuel controller, dyno along with the exhaust and intake WITH CAMS! BUT, funds don't allow that right now. Will be doing cams sooner than later and THEN will get all the widgets in line.. :) Good luck on which ever way you go.

Safe ridin,
Tim
 

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i put 20" thrush in my mufflers and the low end power is much better. it used to get jerky at around 2000 rpm and now it will pull smooth down to 1800. i rarely get that low on rpm but even in the low 2000's it runs much smoother.
 

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Well I don't know if I lost low end torque as it sure don't feel like it in the seat from my mod but I know without a doubt that I am still getting mid 40s on MPG, the bike SOUNDS like it should, nice low end rumble but nothing like my S1L1's on my TC and I DID add Lloydz 2nd upper air filter with no remap. The engine became more noticable with just the muffler mod, adding the filter finished the job and yes, it does seem to run cooler or my right leg has gotten used to the heat. It will set your butt back now where before it would lumber off the line and never really felt like it had any real Uuumpphhhh....

Looking at the 2011 muffler design, I chose to drill the exterior of the muffler tip, 7 - 1/2" holes after removing the black flange from the tip. NOT the center baffle which was removed on this thread. I read some 6, 7 and some 8 holes from differnt riders. Went down the middle with 7. The bike sounds and feels awsome and cost was at 100 bucks because I bought the filter.. Already had the drill bit. I get VERY few backfires, usually only if I drop off WOT to close. Downshifting has a little, subtle, no big pops or anything. Sounds almost identicle to my TC with has the Ness BigSucker, Stage 1 flash and S1L1 pipes which look about like the thrush I believe.

So, if you want to try something free, drill first... If you like it leave it. I would add the Lloydz filter if your doing any mod. As for rich lean, my pipe tips look about like my TC do, maybe a little more dark. I am about to pull the plugs as I wanted 1000 miles on the mod to see how they're looking. Doing it RIGHT is a fuel controller, dyno along with the exhaust and intake WITH CAMS! BUT, funds don't allow that right now. Will be doing cams sooner than later and THEN will get all the widgets in line.. :) Good luck on which ever way you go.

Safe ridin,
Tim
Could you explain/educate me on the VV filter subject:
Ness sells a "twin sucker front filter", also sells Vision performance kit. I'm new to VV, so, doesn't the bike have ONE air filter?
Also, Lloyds has the "Vision Intake Filter". Would that replace the stock filter or is it an additional filter?
I'm understanding and following what is being said about the exhaust and the choices for that, but I'm just not getting the air filter/number of/location of filters.... BTW, mine's a 2008 Vic Vision. I bought used and believe it is all stock.
Then once I get that understood.... Is the fuel controller (Lloyd's, or power commader or big shot II) necessary?

Thank you all for your time.....(hey, I'm an electrician, not a mechanic still on my learning curve). Cheers.... Greg
 
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