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Discussion Starter #1
Inside the headlight bucket on my 2012 XR there are several unused connectors.

I have already figured out which ones are switched and the voltage on each one.

My concern is I want to use (if I can) one of these to power my 250 watt amp for sound system.
and not knowing what their original purpose is will my amp draw be to much.

I have 2 separate female spade connectors wire color pink/blue (+) and black (-).

There is also a gray connector and a green connector.

Anyone know what the original purpose of these connectors and what fuse they are on????
 

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Inside the headlight bucket on my 2012 XR there are several unused connectors.

I have already figured out which ones are switched and the voltage on each one.

My concern is I want to use (if I can) one of these to power my 250 watt amp for sound system.
and not knowing what their original purpose is will my amp draw be to much.

I have 2 separate female spade connectors wire color pink/blue (+) and black (-).

There is also a gray connector and a green connector.

Anyone know what the original purpose of these connectors and what fuse they are on????
Did you download Bbob manuals ? When i used some wires in my headlight i thought the electrical drawings were very helpful ?

Andre using TaPaTaLk
 

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I would never connect to an existing wire in the harness for an amp. Run a direct line with 14ga wire to the hot side of the battery with an inline easy to get at breaker then find a good solid ground or run a second wire to the negative side of the battery. Depending on how the amp is made; it may need a separate on/off switch. The R. Fosgate I'm running is "smart" and knows when to come on even though I have the wires ran straight to the positive battery terminal and a very good ground on the bike.
 

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Another XR owner here.....
I ran two 14 gauge wires into my headlight bucket as sources for adding accessories - one positive and one negative and labeled then as such. I did that just to be safe and not over tax the OEM wiring, even tho I do not have a sound system other than those two chrome thingies pointing out the back under the cases.
Posi-Locks and Posi-Taps make for excellent connectors in there. Hint: label every wire in that bucket as its quite a rat's nest and that will make searching for a certain circuit a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I would never connect to an existing wire in the harness for an amp. Run a direct line with 14ga wire to the hot side of the battery with an inline easy to get at breaker then find a good solid ground or run a second wire to the negative side of the battery. Depending on how the amp is made; it may need a separate on/off switch. The R. Fosgate I'm running is "smart" and knows when to come on even though I have the wires ran straight to the positive battery terminal and a very good ground on the bike.
Thats how I have it wired now but my amp is stupid (not smart) and drains my battery after about a week.

I currently unplug it after every ride, was just trying to sort out a few things before my big trip
out your way.

I am going to look for a lighted switch that will fit in the empty spot next to the driving lights.
 

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Why not run direct wires to the battery for the amp but add a relay off of one of the switched power lines in the headlight bucket? That would be the best of both worlds and you wouldn't have to remember to turn a switch on and off.
 

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Why not run direct wires to the battery for the amp but add a relay off of one of the switched power lines in the headlight bucket? That would be the best of both worlds and you wouldn't have to remember to turn a switch on and off.
Good idea. Solves two problems.
 

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I was going to suggest the same. A relay triggered by a key on power source in the bucket. Also none of the wires in my XCT fairing are big enough to support that much amperage.
 

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I recently had a similar problem on my XR. I have the wide open custom fairing with JVC unit. I don't know if your amp is the same but there are 3 wires for power on my unit. Positive and negative, which are on a quick disconnect with an in-line fuse. Then there's the ignition wire. The problem with mine was that the ignition wire was connected to the positive wire telling the stereo always on, suck power. I seperated them connected the ignition wire right behind the ignition switch. So now when key is off, all systems are down and no more battery drain. Any chance your amp has an ignition wire?

Fort Worth, TX | 2010 Victory Cross Roads
 

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Discussion Starter #12
This is on an XR; so what are you using for a head unit? Your cell phone and blue tooth?

Can you post pics of what you have (speakers, amp, head unit)?
I have the OEM faring for the XR, added a cheap amp from Shark but it has blue tooth , 3.5 mm access. plug
a jump drive usb plug and also a FM radio.

Only issue is that the amp draws when shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I recently had a similar problem on my XR. I have the wide open custom fairing with JVC unit. I don't know if your amp is the same but there are 3 wires for power on my unit. Positive and negative, which are on a quick disconnect with an in-line fuse. Then there's the ignition wire. The problem with mine was that the ignition wire was connected to the positive wire telling the stereo always on, suck power. I seperated them connected the ignition wire right behind the ignition switch. So now when key is off, all systems are down and no more battery drain. Any chance your amp has an ignition wire?

Fort Worth, TX | 2010 Victory Cross Roads
Nope only 2 wire
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why not run direct wires to the battery for the amp but add a relay off of one of the switched power lines in the headlight bucket? That would be the best of both worlds and you wouldn't have to remember to turn a switch on and off.
good idea, now can anyone point me to what I need
 

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good idea, now can anyone point me to what I need
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=amp+relay[/ame]
 

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good idea, now can anyone point me to what I need
You can either make your own setup or search for something that will work for your application. I did a quick search and couldn't find anything for an amp, but if you search for a motorcycle horn relay kit you might find something that will work for you.

Those that add a loud horn to their bike have a similar situation to yours. The wiring is the same except that the horn setup uses the existing horn wiring for the one side of the relay. That way, when they press the existing horn button their loud horn will sound. Instead of using the existing horn wires, you will want to use an ignition switched power source from the bike.

In this diagram, which is for a horn, replace the aftermarket horn with your amp and the existing horn wiring with some other power source that works with your ignition switch:



This guy makes some nice kits for horns, but his website says he won't be making them for a while. You might contact him and see if he can make something for you for your amp:


Either way, he sells all the parts you might need:


Here is some general info you might want to look at:

 

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Just in case you don't know relays:

NO = Normally Open - with no power to the control side (existing wiring tied to your ignition switch) the switch (amp side) will be "open" (off) and your amp will not get power. When there is power on the control side, the switch will "close" (on) and your amp will get power. For obvious reasons you do not want a NC (Normally Closed) relay as you will have power to your amp when your ignition is off and no power to your amp when your ignition is on.

SPST = Single Pole / Single Throw - is a relay that has one control side and one switch. That is all you need for this application.

I'm not an electrician, so you should independently verify this, but I believe you should determine the max amperage draw of your amplifier and look for a relay and fuse that is rated around 20% above that. Hopefully someone who knows more about the proper way to size your relay and fuse will chime in. That amperage draw will also determine the wire gauge you should use.
 
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