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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I got my system from Motorcycle Tunes about a week ago and began to install it but I'm not sure where, or how, to wire in the amp so it turns on and off with the key.

I sort of improvised in the fusebox, tapping off of the headlight fuse and relay but the connections are not in any way reliable. The system works from a test standpoint but I really want to connect this system properly.

Would a marine-grade, handlebar-mounted rocker switch connected between the battery and the noise filter be the way to go? Or is there an easy way to connect through the fuse box? Would the use of "suitcase" connectors on the wiring harness be advisable?

Kevinx? Anyone? What would you suggest?

Thanks!

Miles
 

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if it were me i would find a wire behind the ignition switch that is hot in run (using my volt meter or test light) then hook into that wire to run the amp. if i thought the amp used too many amps for that circut i would just use that wire for a relay then run the amp through the relay to the battery.
there is probably a much easier way.....but thats what i would do.
 

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Hey all,

I got my system from Motorcycle Tunes about a week ago and began to install it but I'm not sure where, or how, to wire in the amp so it turns on and off with the key.

I sort of improvised in the fusebox, tapping off of the headlight fuse and relay but the connections are not in any way reliable. The system works from a test standpoint but I really want to connect this system properly.

Would a marine-grade, handlebar-mounted rocker switch connected between the battery and the noise filter be the way to go? Or is there an easy way to connect through the fuse box? Would the use of "suitcase" connectors on the wiring harness be advisable?

Kevinx? Anyone? What would you suggest?

Thanks!

Miles
There is a two wire plug inside the headlight bucket that is not being used on my 07. It is activated when key is turned on. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
@ NOEMTZ: I replaced the stock, chrome headlight with the black bullet headlight but I can't remember if all the connections got used inside or not. I'll take a look at that as a wiring option.

@ mattf: I took a quick look at the ignition switch as an option during the partial install of the system but the it looks like the switch housing is sealed. Do note the words "quick look". I'll take a more thorough look at the ignition switch and housing, maybe there's a way to get a couple of additional wires in there without lousing things up.

Thanks.

Miles
 

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Hopefully you got a schematic with your system.What kind of amp is it? Depending on analog or solid state an audio amp usually draws quite a bit of power.A 125W amp. can typically draw 20+ Amps if it's wide open.The amps that I've wired up usually have 2 batt inputs.1 directly off your batt. that actually drives the amp. The other circuit is usually called the remote or turn on circuit.This is a low current switched input that you can tap into an existing light or ign switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hopefully you got a schematic with your system.What kind of amp is it? Depending on analog or solid state an audio amp usually draws quite a bit of power.A 125W amp. can typically draw 20+ Amps if it's wide open.The amps that I've wired up usually have 2 batt inputs.1 directly off your batt. that actually drives the amp. The other circuit is usually called the remote or turn on circuit.This is a low current switched input that you can tap into an existing light or ign switch.
I finally decided to let the shop hook this system up and I think that was the way to go. The instructions are not exactly clear about the connections to the bike, so instead of me floundering around and possibly frying some electrical component due to a "guesswork" connection, I figured the shop would know how to safely and properly get the system installed.

As for a post-install review? The system sounds great, even with 30db reduction ear plugs in, if you can believe it. I ordered the "glove-friendly" volume controller as well and should anyone be looking to buy a system from Motorcycle Tunes, I highly recommend spending the extra money on the MT-VC, which is their Rotary Volume Controller. I rode last week and was easily able to adjust the volume while wearing heated gauntlets.

Oh, and I can also recommend getting the Polk Audio speakers, too. There's a surprising amount of low-end these little Polk speakers produce, and that's nice to hear at 55 - 65 mph. I attached a picture of the installed system. The volume controller is on the left side of the bars.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
The rotary volume control has a stereo cable into which you plug another 3.5mm stereo male-to-male cable and use the other end of the male-to-male cable to plug into your iPod, Zune, Smart Phone or whatever device you use for listening to music.

Now, why the volume controller only has one male connector on it (that one connects to the amp), I do not know. It would make far more sense to have both cables terminate with male connectors since the cable from the volume controller to the audio device is about 30 inches long; so it will reach just about anywhere you can put an audio device. As it is configured now, one has to connect up another cable in between the volume controller and the audio device. I have ordered a new 3.5mm male connector and will be replacing the female connector as soon as I can to simplify the setup.

The system I purchased, which includes the speaker upgrade to Polk Audio speakers but did not include the rotary volume controller, came to $287.88 including shipping. The rotary volume controller, with shipping, came to $42.41 and it is well worth getting this controller. As mentioned in my last post, this controller is easy to use even with bulky winter gauntlets so I recommend it highly.

Miles
 
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