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Discussion Starter #1
Hopefully this is something simple.

I own a 2007 Victory Ness Jackpot. A few weeks ago my battery was dead so I ran cables from my NON-running truck to the bike battery to start it up. Started up fine and ran good. Two days later I went to start it again, it started fine but ran with a lot of backfiring. I also noticed the bike didn't start unless I pulled the clutch in even though it was in neutral. Tried to ride it around the block and the neutral light would stay on very dimly in 1st. Brought it back to garage and shut it down. Called bike shop (nearest one 3 hours away) and scheduled to bring it in.

In the end I changed the battery and spark plugs. It runs fine now except the same problem occurs with the starting in neutral. The I have to pull the clutch in. I can let the clutch out after it starts. neutral light does go off completely now once it is in a running gear. The mentioned it at the bike shop but figured it is something I can probably fix on my own so I told them not to worry about it.

Any ideas?

Ed
 

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You could bypass the neutral safety switch but that may completely diasble the neutral light. I would suggest giving it a try and if it doesn't work right then try installing a new switch.
 

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Hopefully this is something simple.

I own a 2007 Victory Ness Jackpot. A few weeks ago my battery was dead so I ran cables from my NON-running truck to the bike battery to start it up. Started up fine and ran good. Two days later I went to start it again, it started fine but ran with a lot of backfiring. I also noticed the bike didn't start unless I pulled the clutch in even though it was in neutral. Tried to ride it around the block and the neutral light would stay on very dimly in 1st. Brought it back to garage and shut it down. Called bike shop (nearest one 3 hours away) and scheduled to bring it in.

In the end I changed the battery and spark plugs. It runs fine now except the same problem occurs with the starting in neutral. The I have to pull the clutch in. I can let the clutch out after it starts. neutral light does go off completely now once it is in a running gear. The mentioned it at the bike shop but figured it is something I can probably fix on my own so I told them not to worry about it.

Any ideas?

Ed
Do not believe it is the switch....but I could be wrong. Possibly the ACM.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Do not believe it is the switch....but I could be wrong. Possibly the ACM.
Does the ACM involved the starting in Neutral with the clutch out and not in? I read you posted somewhere else it does a lot more than control the turn signals. My turn signals work fine and the neutral light works correctly now again as well. The only issue is won't start in neutral with the cluch out.

Thanks!

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You could bypass the neutral safety switch but that may completely diasble the neutral light. I would suggest giving it a try and if it doesn't work right then try installing a new switch.
Call me a noob, but where is the NSS located? I can't seem to find a reference to it anywhere. I know there is the starter interlock switch (I think!).

Thanks in advance!

Ed
 

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Does the ACM involved the starting in Neutral with the clutch out and not in? I read you posted somewhere else it does a lot more than control the turn signals. My turn signals work fine and the neutral light works correctly now again as well. The only issue is won't start in neutral with the cluch out.

Thanks!

Ed
Neutral safety circuit runs through it. Neutral safety switch itself is located by front drive pulley. Check to see if any plugs or wires from it up are disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Neutral safety circuit runs through it. Neutral safety switch itself is located by front drive pulley. Check to see if any plugs or wires from it up are disconnected.
I looked at the wires underneath and around the front pulley. They are all hooked up, none are cut or torn, so what next?

Ed
 

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Make sure that the cable underneath the left switch housing is not sorted or unplugged. That will cause that.

Wally
 

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Ed,

Left side, RIGHT UNDER the clutch lever where you'll see all the wiring going into the switch housing...you'll see a BLACK PLUG. Make sure it is well SEATED or even plugged in. Mine was unplugged and acted just like yours is doing...luckily, I found it just dangling...they forgot to plug it in at all when the messed with my switch housing.

That may not be it...but it is TOO SIMPLE not to check first.

I hope this is it for you.

Wally
 

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18.9 Starter motor does not operate when transmission is in neutral

but....

starter motor does operate when the clutch is pulled in..

check to see if you unplug neutral switch that you have 5 ohms or less. no reading at all is bad switch, more than 5 ohms is bad switch..if you have a manual to look at it is on page 18.9 it also shows if you jumper pins brown/pink on wire harness and neutral light comes on you have a bad switch, so it seems everything is pointing to a bad switch. If neutral switch is ok then you have a wire open/short circuit.
 

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18.9 Starter motor does not operate when transmission is in neutral

but....

starter motor does operate when the clutch is pulled in..

check to see if you unplug neutral switch that you have 5 ohms or less. no reading at all is bad switch, more than 5 ohms is bad switch..if you have a manual to look at it is on page 18.9 it also shows if you jumper pins brown/pink on wire harness and neutral light comes on you have a bad switch, so it seems everything is pointing to a bad switch. If neutral switch is ok then you have a wire open/short circuit.
Yes... you are testing for continuity....so 0.5 Ohms or less is what your looking for while in neutral. If meter shows OL, Overload or reading will not stabalize between 0.5 - 0.00 ohms....possible bad switch.
FYI....have replaced ACM's more often than Neutral Safety Switches for same issue you are having. But Switch is much cheaper item to eliminate. If you need to change it out...you will need to remove exhaust, drive sprocket cover, drive sprocket itself, remove two screws on neutral switch, remove pin and spring, remove o-ring. Make sure you disconnect wires above crankcase. Installation is just the reverse.

The wire or open circuit you mention...could be open or shorted out diode in ACM.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yes... you are testing for continuity....so 0.5 Ohms or less is what your looking for while in neutral. If meter shows OL, Overload or reading will not stabalize between 0.5 - 0.00 ohms....possible bad switch.
FYI....have replaced ACM's more often than Neutral Safety Switches for same issue you are having. But Switch is much cheaper item to eliminate. If you need to change it out...you will need to remove exhaust, drive sprocket cover, drive sprocket itself, remove two screws on neutral switch, remove pin and spring, remove o-ring. Make sure you disconnect wires above crankcase. Installation is just the reverse.

The wire or open circuit you mention...could be open or shorted out diode in ACM.
LOL, a lot of work to get to one switch. Can they have made it more inaccessible? I might get a chance to play with it tomorrow and will pull out my multimeter to check the reading above. I am going to guess the ACM is a lot nicer to get to.

Ed
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes... you are testing for continuity....so 0.5 Ohms or less is what your looking for while in neutral. If meter shows OL, Overload or reading will not stabalize between 0.5 - 0.00 ohms....possible bad switch.
FYI....have replaced ACM's more often than Neutral Safety Switches for same issue you are having. But Switch is much cheaper item to eliminate. If you need to change it out...you will need to remove exhaust, drive sprocket cover, drive sprocket itself, remove two screws on neutral switch, remove pin and spring, remove o-ring. Make sure you disconnect wires above crankcase. Installation is just the reverse.

The wire or open circuit you mention...could be open or shorted out diode in ACM.
18.9 Starter motor does not operate when transmission is in neutral

but....

starter motor does operate when the clutch is pulled in..

check to see if you unplug neutral switch that you have 5 ohms or less. no reading at all is bad switch, more than 5 ohms is bad switch..if you have a manual to look at it is on page 18.9 it also shows if you jumper pins brown/pink on wire harness and neutral light comes on you have a bad switch, so it seems everything is pointing to a bad switch. If neutral switch is ok then you have a wire open/short circuit.
Thanks. I am glad to see that the switch is so nice to get to. LOL. I will hopefully get to it tomorrow. I really appreciate the help from you and NOEMTZ
 
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