Victory Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 110 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Finally, at 91,000, I decided to tackle my first fork oil change. After trying every way to get around the procedure in the manual, I broke down and got a spring compressor and oil level tool. These are well worth the money.
The first one took about 2 hours as I was paying meticulous attention to detail. The second was way quicker. I agree with the folks who said it will ride like a new bike. On the test ride I was practically looking for bumps. :grin
I won't wait do long next time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,215 Posts
Can you post a picture of your 2 tools ?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,215 Posts
Haaaaa nice one guy's .... After reading back, correct not the best thing to "write"

And a new video of replacing seals, good of WD, looks like on a Jackpot i do not need a spring compressor at all hey ????

The oil level tool i can make myself, or just measure from the top in mm etc so the forks are exactly the same with 10 mm extra .....

DepotPicker thanks for the pictures mate ... Good job
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,967 Posts
BP that's 10mm extra air gap not oil
And I use a tape measure which is not all that special.
I ordered a pair of Gold Valve Emulators from RaceTech last night, theyre supposed to be the 'ducks guts' for us damper rod forks guys BP6666VR
My Vics a keeper so I want the best for the best!
Ill bite the bullet next front end teardown and replace the seals, drill out the damper rods and fit the gold valves.
Gonna have a magic carpet ride!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,215 Posts
Oh ? Sorry so 10 mm less oil = 10 mm more airgap of course.

Shouldn't that lower the front fork ?? I have a feeling i BLEW my seals on some serious potholes, so STIFFER would me my goal I think ?

Yeah these gold valves looking really appealing to me too, I'll put them on my shopping list same as the fuel hose plier that VJ posted

Yes that would work, a tape measure or vernia caliber and a seringe with a flexible hose to add or retract the oil ...

I bought 4 seals sets so i never have to worry about this any more ...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,967 Posts
Oh ? Sorry so 10 mm less oil = 10 mm more airgap of course.

Shouldn't that lower the front fork ?? I have a feeling i BLEW my seals on some serious potholes, so STIFFER would me my goal I think ?

Yeah these gold valves looking really appealing to me too, I'll put them on my shopping list same as the fuel hose plier that VJ posted

Yes that would work, a tape measure or vernia caliber and a seringe with a flexible hose to add or retract the oil ...

I bought 4 seals sets so i never have to worry about this any more
...

I just poured it in slowly and measured, its not hard to do.
Blowing seals on severe bump is a virtue of our damper style forks.
I read up on the Gold Valves before dumping the cash on em...
They work much better at both ends of the scale...from low speed bumps and braking...right through the spectrum all the way to high speed handling and hitting a bump at speed...win win win.
I got mine on ebay theyre discounted right now part no S4101
got notification theyre posted this morning USPS with tracking number so they dont muck around!

And no its not the oil that holds the bike up its the spring inside, the oil controls the damping...or tries to...get the Gold Valves if you really want good damping in both compression and rebound
 
  • Like
Reactions: BP6666VR

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,178 Posts
i made a spring compressor similar to that one when i did mine.

and the witchdoctors vid isnt a good way to do it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: NOEMTZ

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,436 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Yes. I should have just got them in the first place. I was, however, able to drain 98% of the oil just from the plug at the bottom without removing the spring, But ensuring the correct amount is in there, and all the air is out of the cartridge, was worth it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,178 Posts
just for reference, that bolt in the bottom is not a drain, it holds the guts in the fork.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,967 Posts
I understand, but it is possible to drain fork tube through it.

So in theory on USD fork bikes it'd be possible to drain, flush, and refill fork oil without the dissasembly process?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,178 Posts
it can be done, but not recommended, by not pulling them apart and doing it properly you dont kniw how much oil you are getting in there, if some oil gets trapped and you add the specified amount(which is just a baseline) you will end up with to much, which could cause issues like seals leaking etc. when you tear them down and measure properly, it does not take alot of fluid to make a measurable difference. and by not disassembling you cannot inspect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,091 Posts
I made an appointment for this spring with a local mechanic to have a new set of tires put on and the fork oil replaced.
Its not overly expensive because I'm going to pull the rims and fork tubes then bring those in, instead of having the shop do and charge for all that work.
There are certain jobs that are "above my pay grade" and have to be done right. Tire mount/balance and fork oil change are two of those jobs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dave S
1 - 20 of 110 Posts
Top