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Discussion Starter #1
I am finally getting to ride my new XR, although it was right at freezing this morning. I took her out on the highway today and rode from about 65 - 95 to see how she would handle. She rides great and has plenty of power, but I did notice above 70 I get some pretty crazy buffeting.

I think my batwing highway bars have an unpleasant side effect of ram air type wind blast that shoots up my legs and rattles my helmet (full face). I have the short screen so I can see over it, but I don't think my problems are being caused from the windscreen. I don't mind some wind from the front and the air just hits the very top of my helmet. As I think the problem is from below, I am thinking lowers would help.

I did a search but didn't find very concise info about the options for lowers out there. What are the options on the market, and which do you think are the best?
 

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The DIY lowers are getting better reviews than the OEM lowers. Best part is you can buy lexan and Memphis Shades brackets for about $80. Some say the forged bars cause the problem, some blame windshield height, and some blaim built in lowers on the windshield. Bigseadaddy put a cee bailey on his XR and likes it but he has tubular bars and the company says their shield will hit the forged bars at full lock.
 

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Looks like you got the forged bars. I went with the standard bar and I still got the head shaking with the mid sheild as well. I too wear a full face and it got to the point around 70 i would start to get a headace.

I went with Cee Bailys windshield and had them bing it down an inch as the mid sheild as 20 and I wanted it at 19. Anyway I had the lowers built into the sheild and it ROCKS! My wife who rides on the back even noticed a difference. We are now in a bubble of clean air. Doing this was cheaper then buying lowers and I was able to get a new windshield cut down an inch to boot!

With your forged bars you will not be able to run the same sheild unless you are willing to understand that it will hit if you go full lock left or right.

The reason for the post was to let you know that lowers does do the trick!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. I went with the short factory shield as the mid shield edge was directly in my line of sight. It could stand to be 1 or 2" taller so maybe I'll get the custom factory type in a little taller than factory short from Cee Baileys and add some lowers.
 

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I suggest calling Cee Baileys and seeing if they can heat the portion of the windshield that hits the forged bars. If they can move a small area 1/2" or so without affecting the aerodynamics that may be the ticket. It sounds like their shield is much less than OEM and according to Bigseadaddy is much more efficient.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the suggestions guys. Personally I am not crazy about how the Cee Baileys w/built-in lowers looks. I prefer the look of the stock shield. I ended up ordering the Vic lowers from Ken's Sports in WI: http://www.kenssports.com

I got them for $245.99, but they make a little money by adding $20 for shipping. So total was $265.99. It's still cheaper than anything on Ebay though. They also have great deals on all the other Vic accessories too, so check them out.
 

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Bryman, I think you are absolutely correct that a big part of the buffeting issue come from below. Cee Baileys IS developing some lowers, I leave my XC there when I travel...leaving it for 6 weeks this Friday. They should have something before then, I hope. I have no financial interest in CB, but really want to fix the buffeting.

I have found that a really tall...look thru GoldWing type shield works pretty darn good. Looks Awful:(
 

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My husband is making mine. A lot less than buying them. About $20.00

He has made lowers for his Vstar 1300, my Vulcan 900 LT (my second bike) and is making a set for my 2010 XR. I am not sure if he made them for the goldwing or not.

We moved his from the Vstar when we rode in high wind last weekend to see if the helped- which they did.

I bet he could tell you how to make them.

Dixie
 
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