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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
..when something just hits you.? I was looking over the Vicwrapz pics I took while making the video and out of the blue it hit that my passenger back-rest pad looks odd being plain and flat at the back of the stitched Corbin Dual Tour. I couldn't get it out of my head :crzy:....So, this morning after a few calls, I brought the seat and back rest to a local upholsterer for them to match stitch the back rest pad to the seat. It'll be done next week.

This is the pic that got me..


and a naked back rest pic for your viewing pleasure ;)
 

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Cool! Can't wait to see it.
 

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Narrower....maybe

Pain was just thinking looking at the picture. Maybe (if mama doesn't mind) maybe remove one or two inches off each side of that back pad. May make it look a little slicker and blend in with the main seat more. If the passenger did not mind I would remove an inch from the overall height and one to two inches from each side maybe. Just throwing that idea out there. Ought to look much better with the recover!
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Discussion Starter #4
Pain was just thinking looking at the picture. Maybe (if mama doesn't mind) maybe remove one or two inches off each side of that back pad. May make it look a little slicker and blend in with the main seat more. If the passenger did not mind I would remove an inch from the overall height and one to two inches from each side maybe. Just throwing that idea out there. Ought to look much better with the recover!
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Mrs. PaiN would totally mind if I trimmed that back-pad. I know back rests are kind of a "F-up" to the lines of most bikes(and I admit I like the XC look much better with the rest and luggage rack off) but its very comfy and secure for my passengers and I need a place for luggage and stuffs.
 

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This is the same upholsterer that stitched up that Drag Specialities seat right!?!?

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Discussion Starter #7
This is the same upholsterer that stitched up that Drag Specialties seat right!?!?
You lost me :confused: I never had the DS seat stitched. I had an upholsterer work on the stock seat's padding before I got the DS but I never had any stitch work done.
The shop I used for the padding is a long distance from me and they take forever to get work done. So I searched around and found a place not far that will have it done in a few days.
 

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You lost me :confused: I never had the DS seat stitched. I had an upholsterer work on the stock seat's padding before I got the DS but I never had any stitch work done.
The shop I used for the padding is a long distance from me and they take forever to get work done. So I searched around and found a place not far that will have it done in a few days.
When we went on the poker run and stopped at the brewery, Sherry noticed there Corbin. I was hoping you'd remember trying to convince her that it was just a restitched DS done by Dave's Upholstery lol.

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Discussion Starter #9
When we went on the poker run and stopped at the brewery, Sherry noticed there Corbin. I was hoping you'd remember trying to convince her that it was just a restitched DS done by Dave's Upholstery lol.
Oh ****..! That was funny stuff :laugh Yea, that one didn't quite get past her.

Currently I'm trying to work out how to sell her BMW 325ci and replace it with a Vanderhall Venice without her noticing......
 

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Oh ****..! That was funny stuff :laugh Yea, that one didn't quite get past her.

Currently I'm trying to work out how to sell her BMW 325ci and replace it with a Vanderhall Venice without her noticing......
Yeah, I was looking at the Vanderhalls at the NYC show two months ago:



... (over on the left there, didn't notice anything on the right).

And Jay Leno certainly likes them:

 

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Discussion Starter #11
I hadn't heard from the upholsterer doing the work, so I called Friday and they are telling me it'll be finished next Tuesday or Wednesday. I didn't get upset or anything, just updating the thread.....cuz' I know some of you can barely sleep at night waiting to see the finished product... ;)

I found a super cool product that is shrink warp, water seal and solder all-in-one. I'm redo-ing my lighting and speaker wire splices with this stuff. I was going to roll the bike out and do it this weekend but now its raining and temps are only in the high 30's. So, the bike is staying put away, which means it won't be out to put the back-rest on to get pics or video anyway.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPS8DPM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]
 

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...
I found a super cool product that is shrink warp, water seal and solder all-in-one. I'm redo-ing my lighting and speaker wire splices with this stuff. I was going to roll the bike out and do it this weekend but now its raining and temps are only in the high 30's. So, the bike is staying put away, which means it won't be out to put the back-rest on to get pics or video anyway.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPS8DPM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In theory, this looks like a nice, useful, practical, product.

In practice, I don't know ...

Even with that nice high 4+ review average on Amazon, many of the high-rated reviewers note that it's a fine line between supplying enough heat to melt the solder, vs. too much heat for the shrinking ends to handle well.

Some of the reviews even go so far as to say that they've added additional heat shrink tubing on top of the supplied tubing-with-solder. That kind of defeats the purpose, except that it possibly saves you the time of actually breaking out your own solder and soldering iron.

Me:

1) I hardly ever make solder connections. I mean, I've done that, with heat-shrink tubing slid temporarily off to the side (and then moved over the solder joint, when it's cooled, and then shrunk with a heat gun), but not very often.

2) I have very few connections in my bike electrical farkling history that are one-to-one. For those cases, I mostly rely on the appropriate sized, no solder, Posi-Locks; see https://www.posi-products.com/posilock.html

Posi-Locks aren't waterproof (although they do make a version for that, Posi-Tite, https://www.posi-products.com/positite.html ), but they are super srong: you can pull on the wires afterward, and are just as likely to break the wires as the connection.

Maybe in a marine application I'd be more concerned, but underneath a bike's fairing or other tupperware, I've never had a problem with a Posi-Lock connection. And that's over c. 20 years of using them on bikes.

3) Most of my farkling connections involve three (or more) wires. For this, I've relied on Wago Cage Clamp connectors: WAGO Corporation - Products - Terminal Blocks and Connectors - Compact Splicing Connectors

Again, these are not waterproof, but what I said earlier, re marine vs. tupperware. I haven't been using these as long as Posi-Locks -- maybe only a dozen years -- but these snap down with authority, have a strip-length guide on the back, and I've never had one fail, come undone, not make and keep a connection, etc.

I have a bag of 50 of the three-way Wagos from Amazon: [ame]https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-413-LEVER-NUTS-Conductor-Connectors/dp/B003K124UA/[/ame]

You can also get these in smaller quantities from Custom Dynamics (https://www.customdynamics.com/cage-clampr-connectors). I also have a bunch of the five-way Wagos.

Here's a pic from my Rivco LED Mirror page (Adding Rivco LED Mirrors to a Victory Cross Country Motorcycle), where you can see I've used both Posi-Locks and Wagos:



So, that solder-and-shrink-tube stuff does indeed seem pretty cool. But given that it also seems finicky, and that I've been very satisfied with the way my Posi-Lock and Wago connections have given me no problems -- and I do most of my wiring the first or second year with a bike, and keep them for five or more years -- I'm going to resist buying that collection.

But it's certainly cheap enough, Mike, so if you want to buy the set and report back, well, I'll barely be able to sleep at night, waiting to hear about your experience. (I still hope to be able to take naps, though.)
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
@wspollack
The instructions recommend using a heat-gun not a flame to get the correct "melting" points, so I'll do that. Even if they are not 100% water tight, I'm sure they are more sealed than my tape jobs are, plus none of the splices will really be out in the elements, all will be under the fairing or in the speaker housings.

on another note...with 48k on the bike I started to see the faintest sheen of oil on my fork legs last year. I snagged a Seal Mate to give the fork seals a cleaning this spring.
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039LDF4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]
 

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@wspollack
The instructions recommend using a heat-gun not a flame to get the correct "melting" points, so I'll do that. Even if they are not 100% water tight, I'm sure they are more sealed than my tape jobs are, plus none of the splices will really be out in the elements, all will be under the fairing or in the speaker housings.

on another note...with 48k on the bike I started to see the faintest sheen of oil on my fork legs last year. I snagged a Seal Mate to give the fork seals a cleaning this spring.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039LDF4A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Okay, good luck, pics, etc. Probably best to start on a Low setting, and try to mostly keep the heat centered while waving it a bit.

Motorcycle Consumer News and other mags have given high marks to the Seal Mate (I read a lot).
 

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Okay, good luck, pics, etc. Probably best to start on a Low setting, and try to mostly keep the heat centered while waving it a bit.

Motorcycle Consumer News and other mags have given high marks to the Seal Mate (I read a lot).
Thought Id buy a proper Seal Mate to use on the old XS650 fork seals which were leaking quite badly.
The bought one folded under pressure of being forced into the older seals.
Whereas when I got my home made one made from a plastic milk bottle it got past the lip of the old seals and removed quite a lot of crap.
The forks dont leak anymore and are quite good since I added a 1" PVC pipe spacer and synthetic fluid.
Not a patch on upgraded Victory forks but for a 39 yr old bike quite acceptable.:smile
 

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Sounds to me that a Seal Mate would make a good vid...


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Sounds to me that a Seal Mate would make a good vid...


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They got vids on using on youtube
 

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They got vids on using on youtube


True, but PaiN has a fledgling YouTube channel of his own and I threw it out there as a content idea.


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Discussion Starter #19
Thought Id buy a proper Seal Mate to use on the old XS650 fork seals which were leaking quite badly.
The bought one folded under pressure of being forced into the older seals.
Whereas when I got my home made one made from a plastic milk bottle it got past the lip of the old seals and removed quite a lot of crap.
The forks dont leak anymore and are quite good since I added a 1" PVC pipe spacer and synthetic fluid.
Not a patch on upgraded Victory forks but for a 39 yr old bike quite acceptable.:smile
A gallon of milk isn't that much less $$ than a Seal Mate and the milk doesn't come with instructions...lol :)

Sounds to me that a Seal Mate would make a good vid...
Like MBX said there's a ton of vids out on the Seal Mate, I doubt I'd add anything new...outside of my sparking personality... Besides, my PaiN's Rides channel fans are clambering for action.....they've had enough of my talking head and are demanding riding and more riding :ltr:
 

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..when something just hits you.? I was looking over the Vicwrapz pics I took while making the video and out of the blue it hit that my passenger back-rest pad looks odd being plain and flat at the back of the stitched Corbin Dual Tour. I couldn't get it out of my head :crzy:....So, this morning after a few calls, I brought the seat and back rest to a local upholsterer for them to match stitch the back rest pad to the seat. It'll be done next week.

This is the pic that got me..


and a naked back rest pic for your viewing pleasure ;)
So where is the pic of the restitched back rest cover.
 
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