[lunaticrider]

Mate, the LC200 as per your picture is set on your RPM only? as on the website I see speed & RpM but I am only interested in RpM as the speedometer is already there

So AirFuelRatio is working good for you?? did you have to change some settings in your PC-5?
The Manuel is very easy to understand, changes ajustments map storage etc are easy to do yourself?
and what do you mean DATA LOG ????

The lcd200 allows you to use several configurations, I just use the one that suits me best. RPM, AFR cylinder 1, AFR cylinder 2 and throttle position.
The nice thing is that if you have any issues with your map, you just make a mental note of throttle position and rpm then when you get home make adjustments as necessary. I've made lot's of changes to my map, got her pretty close to where I'm happy.
Data logging is you record information as you ride and saves it to your (un supplied) 1 gb memory card, then you can view it later either on the screen itself or through a excel type program...

 

[BP6666VR]

lunaticrider

Did you get the following;

http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/products/LCDUnit/powercommander_lcd.aspx

1. SKU#: LCD-200 Product Price: $299.99

2. Memory card

3. PC-LCD HANDLEBAR MNT KIT,CHR SKU#: 61300065 Product Price: $79.95

But are all the wiring harness / Air-Fuel probes (2 cylinders) / to read the exhaust fumes etc included?

Could you register exactly what packet I need, as the website link is not working properly.... so i can compare what you ordered etc??

cheers

 

[saddlebag]

Mission accomplished!

So what was the cruise A/F ratio you settled on?

 

[BP6666VR]

You need to have the PCV with AT for the lcd200 to work. Yes the lcd200 shows you real time AFR #'s but is more than just an AFR gauge it is an on board tool....

PC-5 & AT = do you mean adjustable timing wheel?

 

[broggyr]

PC-5 & AT = do you mean adjustable timing wheel?

I believe he means Auto Tune.

 

[BP6666VR]

Good thinking broggyr

so that means you cannot run a lcd200 without a Autotune ???

I am confused.... :crzy:

hahahahahah

 

[lunaticrider]

Yes you need the AT (autotune) as you need the lambda's to be able to read the air/fuel mixture. I bought my lcd200 from Denis kirk as they will match anyone's price, think I paid 229$. Bought my 1gb memory card off eBay (sandisk 1b) and made my own bracket as I didn't want to mount the screen on the bars, wanted a clean look...

 

[broggyr]

You know what kinda bug me? The AFR+ with the meter is about $325/350. If you want to buy the SAFR meter, it is $325 itself! Yea, I know you can rent it for $20/week...

I would say just buy an AFR+, you get the meter and a free fuel controller!

 

[SuperDog]

Tuning to Reality with the Air Fuel Meter involved – Part 2

After reading all that I could find on the subject and talking with some of our major players in the motorcycle upgrade and fuel tuning field...

Initially I was very excited about my new found power and performance on my 12 Cross bike after the initial install but the gas mileage was dismal and the performance had holes in it and I could feel but not see. Tuning without regard to understanding air fuel ratios is like shooting at a moving target with your eyes closed. Sometimes you hit and sometimes you don’t. Dobeck tries to make it simple but the black art of tuning is anything but easy even with only 3 buttons to push in the 6 different modes available to use. Green for cruise, yellow for acceleration and red for full throttle.

The two other transition Y/B & R/B modes are for transitioning from cruise to acceleration and from acceleration to full throttle.

Fast forward to 10 days later of being buried in due diligence and test riding…

I had set my fuel tuner to the recommended settings to begin with but ended up so far away when adding the AF meter I would never recommend anyone to install a tuner without using one - as you risk running fat in some areas and lean in others not really knowing where using only your butt meter and every motor is different.

*A startling difference in the Cruise mode where we spend most of our time on the throttle. Adding more gas than it needs thinking it is more power is wrong thinking.

Use and believe the Air Fuel meter for tuning, not your butt feel.

Initial Settings were 3.5G 2Y .5R .5GB .5YB 4RB = 27-33 MPG Free breathing, great idle and more power.

Final settings with Air Fuel meter used: 12.5 AF accelerating and 14.2 -15.0 Fwy cruise

.5G 1Y .5R .5GB .5YB 3RB = 39 - 44 MPG

Good power, easier breathing and steady idle with decent gas mileage.

Mission accomplished!

This graph easily depicts the understanding of AF compromise.

Installing the Fuel/Air ratio meter was very simple to install and easy to use. Do it yourself with a tuner, air filter and pipes make this a very cost efficient upgrade with measurable results. Simply unscrewing the stock oxygen sensor and replacing with the Dobeck wired unit and attaching to a power port is all that is needed. I brought up my fuel controller to the gas tank to see when I transitioned to the different modes while under power.

Dobeck makes a performance upgrade done at home in your garage easy starting with an accessible low cost fuel tuner and adding the other modification parts from our favorite vendors to accomplish a better running Victory !

If you missed it - Part 1
My Victory 106 Motor Simple Upgrade path and Eval

I know this is an old thread but had a question for those who have done this and or played with these set ups. The picture shows your O2 sensor mounted in the front pipe. My question is, do you think one should run separate testing with it also mounted in the rear pipe? My thought is that being the rear cylinder does not get "fresh" or unheated air, it would tend to run hotter and would thus run slightly differently requiring a different ratio of AF, and one could then need to maybe alter their settings slightly to get a balance between the 2 cylinders. Or do you think it really wouldn't matter? Just curious others thoughts on this. Probably just over thinking it, but I like to be thorough when I mess with my engines.

 

[Joe_]

On a v twin the rear cylinder is capable of making more power than the front .
This is due to it’s higher benefit from exhaust scavenging compared to the front cylinder.
So yes it should have a map created for it separately. This will also give you a slightly wider torque band.

 

[SuperDog]

On a v twin the rear cylinder is capable of making more power than the front .
This is due to it’s higher benefit from exhaust scavenging compared to the front cylinder.
So yes it should have a map created for it separately. This will also give you a slightly wider torque band.

I'm tunning to a VFC III and the ATW set at +4 degree, so no separate map. In your opinion, would it be better to just run the O2 sensor (which is hooked up to an AFR meter just for testing and setting the VFC, will be removed once set) on the rear cylinder, instead of the front, or should I run it in both positions, test, and then set the VFC based upon a mid point setting between the 2 cylinders "happy points" ?

 

[Joe_]

I really don’t have a good answer. I’m not familiar at all with the controller your using.
I would run the O2 sensor on both cylinders. Then I would compare the results and set the controller so that neither cylinder was excessively lean at cruise. That would be the range where your riding when your traveling on a trip needing gas milage..
By doing so you‘ll likely pick up on which cylinders factory map runs closest to excessively lean in that range.

Then pick that cylinder, the one that needs the most correction and do your tuning with it.
When everything seems correct, swap the O2 sensor to the other cylinder and double check that it is acceptable, no too lean spots.

I hope what I said makes sense…. If not please let me know and I’ll try to answer better.